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Hog Island Oyster Bar does not serve as much reprieve from the
hustle and bustle of the Ferry Building
Marketplace. Lunchtime crowds swarm and flock, attracted to the oysters,
the view and the sunshine pelting in from the wharf. It’s busy, there’s a wait,
but breathing in the outdoors and fresh water induces some calm. Once seated
and the menu hugged, time slows and the sun can be enjoyed.
The gorgeous
light makes everything taste more fresh, more whole, and more dreamy.
Emerald gems of
oysters Rockefeller rest quietly on a bed of crystals, inviting the earthiness
of spinach and sweetness of onions to play with the brightness of lemon and
illumination. Fresh hot Old Bay fries bask in afternoon rays and bring smiles to
faces. Jade padron peppers and amethyst leaves glisten, shiny with oil and
studded with salt, ushering the fresh tastes of moments to come.
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A pretty swirl
of thick pasta snakes around heart-shaped clamshells, animated in the
Californian sun. Bright green leek tops entangle summer flavors, soaking up wet
wheat broth and corona bean bodies. The open steamed clams, calling to be
devoured, are paired with the subtly of fennel sausage, a different kind of
salty in the clear broth. Each element is a little slippery, but the faint
summer sun eliminates murkiness and provides a hearty glow.
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Blue skies
transform the clam chowder into summer memories, sunny with sweet and briny
clams, chewy but just right. They are a bouquet of eerie, symmetrical gradient
grey shells as graceful as petals, that moves with the glitter of the sun. The
water-thin broth reflects a golden hue, like a rinse, just enough to tickle the
eager clams. It’s creamy and rich, like lucid dreams, sticking to your tongue
with flavor not heaviness. Dark red rashers of salty bacon are almost poached
in the milky liquid, which is fervently speckled with green herbs and spicy
black pepper. Fat potato pieces bob as the clam meats are plucked from their
shells. A perfect combination of just enough.
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Something about
the eatery is more than just oysters and beautiful seafood. There is a kind of
escape with each bite, a reflection of the origins of each pure ingredient.
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8.21.14
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food for thought...