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Saturday, February 2,
7.30 pm: Maritime Parc, Jersey City
Maritime Parc just inside of Liberty State Park was very
different than the other restaurants we had been to thus far for Hudson CountyRestaurant Week. It was much quieter, much more subdued. Maybe it was the time
of the night, but it did not feel like the place would get more crowded later.
It felt almost undiscovered, like a secret hidden in the park.
Maritime Parc restaurant occupies part of a circular
building, and the other part is dedicated to events and event planning. The
building is beautiful, all glass windows around the top floor, white and lit,
almost like a wide light house, a beach front property. The round architecture
gives the restaurant a sinuous curve, and so that circular theme appeared again
in the round tables and semi circular booths. Even one side of the restaurant is
rounded with windows, looking over on the water and the New York City skyline.
The view is stunning, perfect like a painted backdrop for a delicious date.
The décor was very refined and matter of fact, but also
classy and minimalist, which kind of also reflected the plating of the food. Everything
was really understated; white, light wood, and dark from the outside.
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The prix fixe menu was small, each course with only three
selections, though the main menu was not large either, one single front side of
a piece of paper. The prix fixe, in comparison to the regular menu, had all the
dishes I desperately wanted, except for maybe one or two. The mains mostly
featured the seafood portion of the restaurant’s expertise, and looked to a
winter favorite for a starter.
Unlike our other stops during Restaurant Week, at Maritime
Parc we were given ample bread, ranging from white, to wheat, to a type with
nuts and dried fruit. This bread was paired with a small bowl of the sweetest
and creamiest butter I can remember and another tiny bowl containing flaky sea
salt. The combination a real treat. We were also given a shallow dish of
pickled red onions, feta cheese, cucumber floating in a sweet beet juice. This
was also lovely, tart and tangy, but leveled by the bread and butter.
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For starters we tasted the baby arugula salad and the
octopus a la plancha. The salad was pretty standard; the firey rocket cooled by
the poached pear, red with liquid, and the Valdeon calmed by the meaty spiced
nuts. It was light and refreshing, though as usual, there was too much of the
strong cheese, and not enough sweet pear to balance. Somehow in the end, as
always, we ended up with too many toppings for the dwindling amount of greens.
The cheese was also in big chunks which made it harder to digest and enjoy its
pungent flavors.
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The octopus a la plancha was the complete opposite of the
light salad appetizer. This starter was heavy, salty, luxurious and decadent.
It was a flavorful composition of tender octopus pieces, crispy greasy bites of
potatoes, and some slow cooked pork belly. There was a sea of textures, from
the creamy octopus, to the stringy pork, allowing each bite to be different.
The decadence was topped with a little frisee lettuce, to add brightness and a
little freshness to the heavy starter. The leek puree underneath the mass of
potatoes, octopus, and belly, and fat, was almost tasteless through the salt
and heaviness of the other elements, but gave great color.
The entrees we chose were the local sea scallops and the
fresh strigoli seafood pasta. Well, get this, just the words “local sea
scallops” were bolded, as they were the main event, but these two beautiful
scallops sat on top three pieces of braised short rib. This is a luxurious take
on Sea and Land, both elements prime from their respective sphere. The scallops
were nicely seared, and just half a second shy from being under cooked, but
they chewed so nicely and felt fresh. They had little flavoring, other than
their natural sweetness and saltiness. The short ribs were also well prepared,
stringy, and falling apart with a tender stroke of the knife. The combination
was really nice, similar textures, with completely different flavors, an
equilibrium of the heaviness of the meat and the daintiness of the seafood.
Underneath this pile of goodness was a Gribiche sauce, spiked with onion and
garlic. This sauce apparently is like a cousin of mayonnaise, studded with
capers and reminded me of potato salad without the potatoes. It was a little
strong, but added another element to the dish, and something to smear on the
meat, and watch vanish as it was almost absorbed.
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The pasta dish was amazing, though not much to look at. It
was a heaping bowl of pasta, with dots of a few different colors, but not many.
The sauce that drenched the thick shaped pasta, was creamy, heavy and
delicious, spiked with lemon and thyme. It smelled like paradise, because of
the herbs and the dispersed seafood. There were kernels of fresh cooked, sweet
corn throughout, bringing out the sweetness of the seafood, as well as the
richness of the sauce. The bowl held an array of different textures and
flavors, and was all married well with the sauce and the al dente pasta. It was
extremely addictive, comforting and filling. It felt familiar and fancy at the
same time. I kept finding myself reaching over our small circular table, to
snatch some pasta from my dining best friend. Though delicious, it was not
extremely memorable in flavor, almost monotonous except for the different
seafoods like scallop, shrimp and crab meat. But what I do remember, is that it
was absolutely delicious.
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Of the three desserts offered, two were pretty predictable;
a chocolate and a crumble, but the third was hard to imagine and innovative, so
we had to try it. It was a beautiful little tropical vacation for dessert,
focused on an island of vacheron (sweet French cheese) surrounded by coconut
lemongrass sorbet, floating in a pool of passion fruit coulis, and topped with
little pieces of kiwi, pineapple and mango. It was accompanied by a long thin
strip of lime meringue. This was the most different, complicated, but delicious
desserts I have had in a while. It was abstract looking, but everything fit
together so nicely; the tart fruits with the tangy coulis, smothered by the
sweetness of the sorbet and cheese, and made staccato with the crunch of the
meringue. There were a few little micro greens on top, as well as what felt
like pepper, adding another savory like element, in conjunction with the
cheese.
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The second dessert we decided on was the crisp. It was an
apple pear crisp, pretty and round, standing alone. Next to it, was a scoop of
cinnamon ice cream studded with mini butterscotch chips, and topped with a thin
dried slice of apple like a hat. There was a stripe of caramel and strawberry,
flavors that both heightened and contrasted the cold sweet ice cream, and warm
muted crisp. The textures were all over the place, and the chips in the ice
cream was definitely a surprise in the mouth, as we didn’t expect something so
hard in the smooth frozen treat. There were crumbles under the ice cream too
that mimicked those on top of the individual crisp.
Both the desserts were a beautiful end to a delicious dinner, filled with unexpected tastes and flavors that had me longing for more. I am so glad we took advantage of Hudson County Restaurant Week to discover and indulge in Maritime Parc.
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food for thought...