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Initially,
the high ceilings are dark, even intimidating, but the host's welcoming
greeting from just beyond the bar creates an immediate sense of comfort
and community. Light streams through the large monogrammed windows, casting
brilliance onto the earth tones and rustic details, as well as the clean table
settings.
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La
Nonna Ristorante and Bar is the second Brooklyn restaurant run by Chef Morena and wife Anna-- a
step up from the quick pizzas and pastas of La Nonna Pizzeria Trattoria Paninoteca.
The evolving menu consists of antipasti and salads, embellished housemade pastas, hearty carne and pesce second courses, and daily specials and variations,
alongside a well-rounded wine list. La Nonna mixes traditional Italian, which
demonstrates Morena’s simple roots, with intricate flavors displaying his
innovation. The diversity, breadth and charm of the menu makes everyone feel at
home.
As
a popular appetizer from its sister restaurant, the tower of fried breaded
eggplant layered with plump tomatoes and fresh mozzarella is tested at La
Nonna. It is topped with spicy arugula, salty parmesan and a drizzle of sweet
balsamic. The crunchy eggplant pairs with the cheese and earthy arugula and
tomato for classic flavors and feelings.
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Three
beautiful and vibrant Blue Point oysters line the slender plate, brimming with
creamy spinach, crunchy breadcrumbs and parmesan. Each bring salty and earthy
flavors and moments of texture from the chewy oyster to the crisp crumbs and
smooth spinach, encapsulating comfort.
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Negative
space enhances the aesthetics of the solitary line of the delicate octopus
appetizer. Purple octopus and its bed of sliced fennel, red onion, and plump
golden tomatoes divide the plate, only surrounded by dark dots of balsamic. The
warm octopus is tender with a charred smoky afterthought, while the other
cooler elements feel fresh and the herbs make it like a summer breeze.
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Pillowy
gnocchi float in just enough familiar red sauce, chunky with tomatoes, onions
and garlic. The sauce is readable, its roots apparent. It is soft and buttery,
smooth playing to the consistency of the polenta dumplings. Salty mozzarella
bonds with the sauce, stretching and sticking to each gnocchi while the green
arugula adds bite.
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The
six sachetti, draped in a rich
brandy cream sauce, are filled with pureed chestnut and mascarpone. Bright cilantro and jeweled pomegranate seeds flirt with
the heaviness of the sauce and intensity of the studded filling. Ambitious
layering of flavors and textures reveal a complexity different from other
dishes, showing Morena’s inventive spirit.
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The
homemade multilayer dessert looks to the decadence of nutella, coffee, and
chocolate and the lightness of lady fingers and whipped cream. A mixture of
tiramisu, dry chocolaty Italian cookies, nutty nutella and a sweet whipped
cream with just enough of each consistency and taste to blend to sumptuous
sweetness. The lusted after pistachio crème brulee is a bright green
custard, smooth and sweet, with the bite of caramelized sugar from the crunchy
shell and meaty roasted pistachios-- a twist on the beloved classic.
La
Nonna is a little bit of home, a meeting of regulars and new comers, where
everyone is treated with warmth and respect. Even with the high ceilings,
pristine tables and refined rustic décor, the large space is cozy and
welcoming, just like the luscious foods and wines brought to the table. Chef
Morena's delicious offerings warm from the inside and Anna's hospitality
recalls those intimate meals cooked by Grandma—La Nonna.
RER
4.23.14
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La Nonna Ristorante & Bar
184 Kent Avenue
Williamsburg, Brooklyn 11249
ph 718.302.1100
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food for thought...