un'ALTRA volta: Asellina

RER 4.8.15

I had a chance to go to Asellina again, so I went with fresh eyes and an open mind. Walking to the restaurant was like retracing my steps, like déjà vu, vague but palpable, but I was oddly excited.

The moment I stepped in the door, I remembered how much I liked the vibe of the eatery: the dance music remixed and familiar, the minimalist lines and sexy feel, classy but updated. It all came back to me, but I refused to hang on to past impressions.

This time, the tempo of dinner felt to be more on my own terms. We were promptly seated, and again, we sat with our menus at our table for a while, though not out of neglect, but out of luxury. We took our time to acclimate and take it all in.

Before we knew it, our server had checked in multiple times and we had already chatted with the manager. Our server made us feel at home, creating the kind of atmosphere I longed for the last time. And the manager spoke with a sincerity that made us feel at ease and ready to take on the menu with his recommendations. We clung to his favorites, hoping his guidance would pay off.

We started with cocktails. The Squillo was really refreshing, sweet from mango vodka with floral notes from muddled cucumber. The Civetta too felt like summer, though stronger with rich bourbon.

Moments later, little arancini arrived as an amuse-bouche. A fried crunchy layer encased the cheesy hot middle, evoking classic Italian, refined with a truffled fava bean puree underneath.

RER 4.8.15

The colors of the beet and burrata starter were ravishing, like precious stones. Sweet beets, roasted and multi colored, met perfectly with the creamy innards of the burrata. Tanginess was brought on by a delicate raspberry puree, a garnet color and of spring-like freshness.

RER 4.8.15

The lamb shank entrée was sizeable and satiating. The meat rested on a thin smear of Gorgonzola laced polenta. It was braised lamb, fragrant with rosemary and herbs, the epitome of savory and hearty. While the squid ink pasta dish had a similar aromatic element, strong of garlic and butter, it was both lighter and more decadent. The perfect al dente black linguine lapped up the salt and sauce and the acidity of the grape tomatoes burst the richness of the dense seafood like the meaty shrimp and lobster.

RER 4.8.15

We finished with tiramisu, the only ending to an Italian meal. The dessert emanated comfort with just enough sweetness to hold us over.

I felt like I was at a completely different restaurant than the last time I visited. I found myself more immersed in the ambiance and the food than the frustration and waiting. The evening was pleasant and delicious, this time, leaving only good tastes in my mouth.

RER

4.8.15

RER 4.8.15

NYCRW: Asellina

RER 3.4.15

Sometimes the higher the expectations, the greater the disappointment. Nothing could be more true about my experience at Asellina for New York City Restaurant Week. I was so excited to see one of my favorite friends, catch up and eat really good food. The first two happened, but the third was like the worst cliffhanger, dangling too long with an anti-climatic ending.

RER 3.4.15

The dinner date started strong with the aroma of my friend’s bourbon, the loud dance remixes, and almost too trendy décor. But waiting at the table too long, menus in hand, mouths watering, poisoned it. It gave us plenty of gab time, moments to soak in the sights and a chance get hungrier, but we were starving for the attention of the staff.

Eventually, we ordered and were not too deterred (although, I might have said  “Let’s just leave and get pizza” a few times); we had red wine and each other. After time, the music felt louder and our hunger intensified due to frustration.

RER 3.4.15

Finally our beautiful appetizers arrived— both the mozzarella in carrozza and the tagliere Piomentese were stately and minimalist. Perhaps things were looking up... The first was a glorified mozzarella stick, heavy and fried, while the tagliere was rich and decadent with pate, dried meat and tangy cheese. The accompanying focaccia remained tempting to dull hunger despite its greasiness.

RER 3.4.15

Our mains came out quickly, which created an uneasy tempo for the meal. A cast iron pot held a thick pool of cheeses, soft gnocchi and textured artichokes, ushering the scent and tastes of comfort, but nothing memorable. The roasted veal shoulder was tender, but forgettable with no flavors to ignite the senses. Its polenta waffle was intriguing, but too greasy and laden with garlic, an effort to make up for what was lacking.

RER 3.4.15

Now, dessert was on the horizon, our glasses of red wine were emptying, and we were becoming weary of the place, an itch to escape hung heavy. The desserts were like artwork to be looked at and not touched, or eaten. Two cubes of dense chocolate ganache were interrupted by salty, almost savory brittle— rich and chocolaty, smooth and crunchy. The pretty millesfoglie also had a savory bend to it. While the wild berries jam brought brightness to the meaty puff pastry and mascarpone zabaione, it was still too dark and dense. (Sidenote: I could not bring myself to finish, which is unheard of, but something was extremely off-putting, maybe it was just the culmination of an unsatisfying experience.)

RER 3.4.15

I did not leave happy, only craving something delicious and pizza, and regretting the meal. Perhaps too much flavor was injected into the concept of Asellina and not enough was inserted in the food—a pretty façade for underwhelming food and worse service.

RER

3.4.15

RER 3.4.15

HOMESTYLED Italian: GP's Restaurant & Bar

RER 10.26.14

Sometimes I just want pasta. More specifically, pasta with pesto. There is something severely comforting about pesto pasta and shrimp. It brings me back to one of my favorite childhood dinners involving a Knorr packet of creamy pesto—a powder brought to life with olive oil and water, a little stirring and patience. Somehow, that packet is what I expect pesto to taste like, as inauthentic as it is.

This particular Sunday, that is what I was craving, but we decided on dining out. Lucky for us (yes, us, not just me—my yearnings can be dangerous), GP’s in Jersey City had the pasta dish to satiate my hankering.

RER 10.26.14

GP’s is a sweet little spot next to the even sweeter Hamilton Park. There’s a high ceilinged bar area in the front, some tables and a more intimate dining space, with dim lighting for atmosphere. The menu is typical of an Italian American spot, playing into the family-style feeling emanated by the tall red wall lined with photos.

There are antipasti like cheese plates and special crostini. That night a homemade burrata served with green olives, prosciutto, toasty croutons, peppers and a tart sweet balsamic reduction was highlighted. The burrata was not stringy and sticky at its center, there was no stretch and pull, but it was like soft ricotta, salt-less and rustic.

 

Small plates like smoked salmon outfitted with accoutrements and Gorgonzola polenta, mix familiarity with freshness.  The meatballs drenched in a homey tomato sauce and heavily dusted with grated Parmesan, are the perfect example. A bit of home out, meaty but perhaps over-loved.

After a range of salads, a standard pasta selection—maccheroni Bolognese, spaghetti pomodoro, orecchiette with broccoli rabe, etc. The list finishes with homemade gnocchi with pesto and shrimp.

RER 10.26.14

Exactly what I came for. The gnocchi were plump pillows, doughy, with a floury aftertaste. They were swimming in a thick and creamy pesto sauce, sweetened by the succulence of the scant shrimp. The first few bites were all the things that I wanted, but it was thick on the tongue, heavy and slow going.

RER 10.26.14

Of the classics, the chicken parmigiana was intriguing in the most traditional of ways. We asked for pesto sauce on the homemade spaghetti in efforts to mimic a favorite. The portion was just enough, a healthy balance of overworked protein and delicate and chewy pasta.

RER 10.26.14

And the classics continued with dessert, a flourless chocolate cake and cheesecake, to name a few, but the seasonal came into play as well. A dense cheesecake laden with a thick layer of sweet fig was paired with a tangy fruit sauce, a little citrus to cut the intense sweet.

GP’s converges traditional with the now in an effort to create something timeless and timely. There is quality with some slippage but most importantly, feelings of familiarity, like a place where grandma could very well be stirring the sauce and your great friend is pouring your drink.

RER

10.26.14

NYCRW: LAVO new york

RER 8.8.14

Lunch at Lavo for New York Restaurant Week was not just tuna tartare and margherita pizza, it was a lovely time catching up and soaking in the City. The just right breeze rolled into the restaurant through the open tall windows, but hardly any light came in passed the heavy bar into the darker dining area. Mixed music disrupted the mood lighting and detailed décor, which spoke to another time and place. But the food was classic and straightforward, combinations that were expected and reliable.

RER 8.8.14

RER 8.8.14

It was thick colorful tomato slices with too little creamy bufala or a bed of buttery avocado supporting chunky pieces of pink red tuna in a pool of dark acidic dressing.

RER 8.8.14

RER 8.8.14

It was peppery steak slices lost in sauce and accompanied by truffled parmesan fries or a little margherita pizza, straight to the point.

It was also dessert— light and colorful fruits with an adult strawberry sorbetto or doughy and greasy fried Oreo zeppole with a miniscule malted milkshake.

But most of all it was good company, good chatter and a good time.

RER

8.8.14

RER 8.8.14

home is where the HEART is : La Nonna Ristorante & Bar

RER 4.23.14

Initially, the high ceilings are dark, even intimidating, but the host's welcoming greeting from just beyond the bar creates an immediate sense of comfort and community. Light streams through the large monogrammed windows, casting brilliance onto the earth tones and rustic details, as well as the clean table settings.  

RER 4.23.14

La Nonna Ristorante and Bar is the second Brooklyn restaurant run by Chef Morena and wife Anna-- a step up from the quick pizzas and pastas of La Nonna Pizzeria Trattoria Paninoteca. The evolving menu consists of antipasti and salads, embellished housemade pastas, hearty carne and pesce second courses, and daily specials and variations, alongside a well-rounded wine list. La Nonna mixes traditional Italian, which demonstrates Morena’s simple roots, with intricate flavors displaying his innovation. The diversity, breadth and charm of the menu makes everyone feel at home.

RER 4.23.14

As a popular appetizer from its sister restaurant, the tower of fried breaded eggplant layered with plump tomatoes and fresh mozzarella is tested at La Nonna. It is topped with spicy arugula, salty parmesan and a drizzle of sweet balsamic. The crunchy eggplant pairs with the cheese and earthy arugula and tomato for classic flavors and feelings.

Three beautiful and vibrant Blue Point oysters line the slender plate, brimming with creamy spinach, crunchy breadcrumbs and parmesan. Each bring salty and earthy flavors and moments of texture from the chewy oyster to the crisp crumbs and smooth spinach, encapsulating comfort.

RER 4.23.14

Negative space enhances the aesthetics of the solitary line of the delicate octopus appetizer. Purple octopus and its bed of sliced fennel, red onion, and plump golden tomatoes divide the plate, only surrounded by dark dots of balsamic. The warm octopus is tender with a charred smoky afterthought, while the other cooler elements feel fresh and the herbs make it like a summer breeze.

JAR 4.23.14

Pillowy gnocchi float in just enough familiar red sauce, chunky with tomatoes, onions and garlic. The sauce is readable, its roots apparent. It is soft and buttery, smooth playing to the consistency of the polenta dumplings. Salty mozzarella bonds with the sauce, stretching and sticking to each gnocchi while the green arugula adds bite.

RER 4.23.14

The six sachetti, draped in a rich brandy cream sauce, are filled with pureed chestnut and mascarpone. Bright cilantro and jeweled pomegranate seeds flirt with the heaviness of the sauce and intensity of the studded filling. Ambitious layering of flavors and textures reveal a complexity different from other dishes, showing Morena’s inventive spirit.

RER 4.23.14

The homemade multilayer dessert looks to the decadence of nutella, coffee, and chocolate and the lightness of lady fingers and whipped cream. A mixture of tiramisu, dry chocolaty Italian cookies, nutty nutella and a sweet whipped cream with just enough of each consistency and taste to blend to sumptuous sweetness.  The lusted after pistachio crème brulee is a bright green custard, smooth and sweet, with the bite of caramelized sugar from the crunchy shell and meaty roasted pistachios-- a twist on the beloved classic.

La Nonna is a little bit of home, a meeting of regulars and new comers, where everyone is treated with warmth and respect. Even with the high ceilings, pristine tables and refined rustic décor, the large space is cozy and welcoming, just like the luscious foods and wines brought to the table. Chef Morena's delicious offerings warm from the inside and Anna's hospitality recalls those intimate meals cooked by Grandma—La Nonna.

RER

4.23.14

JAR 4.23.14

La Nonna Ristorante & Bar

184 Kent Avenue

Williamsburg, Brooklyn 11249

ph 718.302.1100

the BAR next door : Bar Felice

RER 12.12.13

The atmosphere was tangible sitting at the curved bar of Bar Felice, as the bartender carefully mixed the beautiful drinks. She moved with a precise grace, concentrating on the elaborate specialty cocktails or a measured pour of wine, while being attentive to those sitting at the bar.

RER 12.12.13

RER 12.12.13

It was a cold night, and the dark sky flooded though the windows of Bar Felice, the lounge bar extension of Felice83; dim lights, cool décor, grey stripes, trendy finishes and fixtures. The live music was made staccato by exchanges of the staff in Italian. It was busy— people chatted and laughed, rhythmically drinking deep from their glasses. And the air was warm with sultry sauces, luxurious wine and colorful cocktails.

RER 12.12.13

RER 12.12.13

Jacopo Giustiniani, co-owner of Bar Felice, blends his cultural heritage and familial legacy, to construct the beverage program. The drinks menu features a collection of signature wines from Giustiniani’s family’s winery in Italy, along with a handpicked selection of artisanal whiskeys and scotches and exclusive European beers.

Courtesy of Bar Felice

RER 12.12.13

Specialty drinks, developed by Salvatore Tafuri, are moments of Italy— some with aperol and campari flavors, prosecco accents, or are infused with wine. The Padova mixes refined Felice white wine with bitter aperol and campari to heighten the natural essence of the grapefruit juice. The Milano, though, is sweet; a refreshing mix of vodka and prosecco, l'esprit de june and white grape juice. But the Fiorentina is tangy and fruity, mixing a house-made raspberry purée with gin and cranberry juice, topped with club soda. Bar Felice also offers classic Italian cocktails like the Negroni, the Aperol Spritzer and the Garibaldi. The aesthetic of the cocktails are clean and polished, an integration of Italian inspiration and sophistication.

RER 12.12.13

RER 12.12.13

The menu at Bar Felice, assembled by Felice’s executive chef Simone Parisotto, has a few small plates, which are perfect to pair with the curated list of beers, wines and specialty cocktails. It is also possible to order items off of the menu from Felice 83 next door. Light bites, like arancini, filled fried rice balls, taglieri, the chef’s selection of cured meats and cheeses, or olive marinate served with scamorza cheese are reminiscent of Italy, while sliders and patatine homefries offer American comfort with an Italian twist. 

RER 12.12.13

RER 12.12.13

The homemade polpettine are chewy meatballs made with veal and lemon zest, drowned in a smooth tomato sauce. Fritto misto di calamari e verdure brings a satisfying crunch from thin fried strands of calamari, zucchini, eggplant, asparagus and carrots. A little lighter, the insalata di carciofi from the Felice menu, is sliced raw artichokes and hearts of palm on a bed of spicy arugula and topped with fat flakes of Parmesan. With provolone, mozzarella, parmesan and goat cheese the pasta al forno is heartier. The menu presents Tuscan charm with a New York City edge.

The light bites and hand picked beverage program, make Bar Felice a great spot for a lovely night out, a happy moment— felice.

RER 12.12.13

Bar Felice

1591 First Ave
New York, NY 10016
Ph. 212.249.4080

 

RER

12.23.13