eat in COLOR: Market Ipanema NYC

RER 8.3.16

At Market Ipanema you eat in color; the rainbow is edible. From breakfast to lunch, the Brazilian-based fast fresh eatery allows you to taste each color in the rainbow through the finest, freshest, and most wholesome ingredients.  Owner Beatriz Lobato Grabowski knows where your food comes from and takes pride in this knowledge, as she takes pride in the colorful flavor combinations, the care put into each meal prepared, and how she and her team treat the community and the environment.

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Market Ipanema sells vibrant fresh juices that rotate with ingredient availability, vivacious smoothies with the benefits and sweetness of nature, and Irving Farm coffee. Breakfast can be just a fresh fruit bowl; an acai bowl, deep purple topped with homemade granola and fresh fruits; coconut yogurt dotted with coconut flakes; or a banana with dark and rich cocoa cream.

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RER 8.3.16

Fresh multi-colored salads with an array of toppings and bases, ranging from chicken and salmon to greens and beans, are up for grabs in the cooler. Tartines on homemade whole wheat bread are filled with avocados, roasted tomatoes, and mix greens, or salmon and ricotta with herbs are available as well. If you do not see what you want out, the team can whip up your favorite. 

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Warm tender mahogany colored protein-packed quinoa serves as the foundation for a medley of flavors in a powerhouse quinoa bowl. Seasonal roasted vegetables, like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, yellow squash or carrots, are nestled in each bite, like colorful gems.  A savory aromatic blend of herbs brings out the nuttiness of the quinoa, while bright green avocado stuns and adds cool creaminess to the hearty bowl. For a boost, get a perfectly poached egg to top it off.

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Other hot dishes include rice bowls, salmon patties, chicken stew, and quiche, each balanced and representing the spectrum of colors.

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RER 8.3.16

Grounded in the Nolita eatery’s Brazilian roots, the tapioca crepes are both colorful and unique treats. Each gluten-free crepe kisses a different part of the rainbow, inside and out. The texture is hypnotizing, like bubbles popping with each bite. The bold pink crepe gets its color from dehydrated beets mixed into the cassava flour to create the crunchy shell. Inside, the house-made cashew cream mingles with red tomato and silky avocado for a textured savory. The kale infused green crepe oozes with salty Gruyere cheese and roasted red onions. They come in sweet varieties, too. Sweet, golden yellow banana jam and fat coconut flakes make for a tropical dessert. Each tapioca crepe is a picture of contrasting colors and flavors that come together harmoniously. 

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To celebrate the Olympics in Rio, Market Ipanema is offering mini tapioca crepes, three for $10. Taste them all and enjoy the many colors that Market Ipanema has to offer. Olympic games and events will be shown on a screen in the eatery as well.

No over-done breakfast or sad lunches here—Market Ipanema keeps it fresh, balanced, exceptional, and colorful.

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8.9.16

RER 8.3.16

un'ALTRA volta: Asellina

RER 4.8.15

I had a chance to go to Asellina again, so I went with fresh eyes and an open mind. Walking to the restaurant was like retracing my steps, like déjà vu, vague but palpable, but I was oddly excited.

The moment I stepped in the door, I remembered how much I liked the vibe of the eatery: the dance music remixed and familiar, the minimalist lines and sexy feel, classy but updated. It all came back to me, but I refused to hang on to past impressions.

This time, the tempo of dinner felt to be more on my own terms. We were promptly seated, and again, we sat with our menus at our table for a while, though not out of neglect, but out of luxury. We took our time to acclimate and take it all in.

Before we knew it, our server had checked in multiple times and we had already chatted with the manager. Our server made us feel at home, creating the kind of atmosphere I longed for the last time. And the manager spoke with a sincerity that made us feel at ease and ready to take on the menu with his recommendations. We clung to his favorites, hoping his guidance would pay off.

We started with cocktails. The Squillo was really refreshing, sweet from mango vodka with floral notes from muddled cucumber. The Civetta too felt like summer, though stronger with rich bourbon.

Moments later, little arancini arrived as an amuse-bouche. A fried crunchy layer encased the cheesy hot middle, evoking classic Italian, refined with a truffled fava bean puree underneath.

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The colors of the beet and burrata starter were ravishing, like precious stones. Sweet beets, roasted and multi colored, met perfectly with the creamy innards of the burrata. Tanginess was brought on by a delicate raspberry puree, a garnet color and of spring-like freshness.

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The lamb shank entrée was sizeable and satiating. The meat rested on a thin smear of Gorgonzola laced polenta. It was braised lamb, fragrant with rosemary and herbs, the epitome of savory and hearty. While the squid ink pasta dish had a similar aromatic element, strong of garlic and butter, it was both lighter and more decadent. The perfect al dente black linguine lapped up the salt and sauce and the acidity of the grape tomatoes burst the richness of the dense seafood like the meaty shrimp and lobster.

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We finished with tiramisu, the only ending to an Italian meal. The dessert emanated comfort with just enough sweetness to hold us over.

I felt like I was at a completely different restaurant than the last time I visited. I found myself more immersed in the ambiance and the food than the frustration and waiting. The evening was pleasant and delicious, this time, leaving only good tastes in my mouth.

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4.8.15

RER 4.8.15

NYCRW: Asellina

RER 3.4.15

Sometimes the higher the expectations, the greater the disappointment. Nothing could be more true about my experience at Asellina for New York City Restaurant Week. I was so excited to see one of my favorite friends, catch up and eat really good food. The first two happened, but the third was like the worst cliffhanger, dangling too long with an anti-climatic ending.

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The dinner date started strong with the aroma of my friend’s bourbon, the loud dance remixes, and almost too trendy décor. But waiting at the table too long, menus in hand, mouths watering, poisoned it. It gave us plenty of gab time, moments to soak in the sights and a chance get hungrier, but we were starving for the attention of the staff.

Eventually, we ordered and were not too deterred (although, I might have said  “Let’s just leave and get pizza” a few times); we had red wine and each other. After time, the music felt louder and our hunger intensified due to frustration.

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Finally our beautiful appetizers arrived— both the mozzarella in carrozza and the tagliere Piomentese were stately and minimalist. Perhaps things were looking up... The first was a glorified mozzarella stick, heavy and fried, while the tagliere was rich and decadent with pate, dried meat and tangy cheese. The accompanying focaccia remained tempting to dull hunger despite its greasiness.

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Our mains came out quickly, which created an uneasy tempo for the meal. A cast iron pot held a thick pool of cheeses, soft gnocchi and textured artichokes, ushering the scent and tastes of comfort, but nothing memorable. The roasted veal shoulder was tender, but forgettable with no flavors to ignite the senses. Its polenta waffle was intriguing, but too greasy and laden with garlic, an effort to make up for what was lacking.

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Now, dessert was on the horizon, our glasses of red wine were emptying, and we were becoming weary of the place, an itch to escape hung heavy. The desserts were like artwork to be looked at and not touched, or eaten. Two cubes of dense chocolate ganache were interrupted by salty, almost savory brittle— rich and chocolaty, smooth and crunchy. The pretty millesfoglie also had a savory bend to it. While the wild berries jam brought brightness to the meaty puff pastry and mascarpone zabaione, it was still too dark and dense. (Sidenote: I could not bring myself to finish, which is unheard of, but something was extremely off-putting, maybe it was just the culmination of an unsatisfying experience.)

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I did not leave happy, only craving something delicious and pizza, and regretting the meal. Perhaps too much flavor was injected into the concept of Asellina and not enough was inserted in the food—a pretty façade for underwhelming food and worse service.

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3.4.15

RER 3.4.15

DEJEUNER: L'Express

RER 1.2.15

The winter sun was shining and it was time for a lovely late lunch for a desperately needed catch-up and escape. We traveled across Park Avenue South and found ourselves in L’Express, a sweet little bistro that felt as if it was on an anonymous Parisian side street. The tables and chairs, the mirrors the colors, the tile, the menu, the everything… so French, so perfect for the midday rendez-vous.

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The house duck pâté appetizer came with country toast, a spicy mound of mustard, tart and tangy cornichons, briny black olives, fresh tomato swirls, and soggy dressed lettuce. The extremely large triangles of pâté were mildly intimidating, a generous portion of luscious decadence. Each accoutrement gave the silky, fatty pâté a unique flavor, making different elements shine while cutting the heaviness.

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Pretty onion soup garnished with a little green garnish was perfect to warm insides and make smiles. T he crouton dissolved in the small bowl, but the thick hot cheese stretched adding chew to the smooth broth that was studded with slinky onions.

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A gorgeous shallow bowl held more pumpkin ravioli than predicted with a light broth and sage. Each pocket was pleasantly plump and bursting with fresh feelings of fall. The filling was seriously pumpkin, with all those flavors of the season— spicy, sweet things. The herbal sage brought out the earthiness of the pumpkin and added distance between the filling and pumpkin pie.

The steak frites rounded out the bistro experience. Char and grill marks drastically contrasted the warm pink meat longing for salt. A tiny dressed salad brightened the heavy meat and perfectly soggy fries, balance.  

Despite its name and its hours, a lunch at L’Express could be leisurely. It was soulful and buttery, indulgent in a way that is almost effortless and quotidian—déjeuner.

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1.2.15

RER 1.2.15

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late for a very important DATE: BEA Restaurant & Bar

RER 11.16.14

The Sunday tunnel traffic was atrocious and I was late. Not just a few minutes late, like really late. Late enough that my dinner-date had time to get assigned reading done and slowly sip a cocktail at the bar. Late. 

By the time I arrived, I was mortified, but the back of my great friend’s bent head made everything better. Relief.

I was also pleased that the place she picked for our rendez-vous was stunning. We were meeting in mid-town, so quality can be sparse. But Bea Restaurant & Bar, was kind of exactly what I was hoping for on that chilly night.

The place has real atmosphere— thrown together round tables, white-washed brick walls, dark cushiony booths, Edison bulbs and frames unite, giving off a cool, “hush-hush” speakeasy vibe.  The big central bar displays the booze like it’s art, towering, lit and impressive. Chic Distress.

But we were there to chat, nosh on some fancy eclectic bar food, and have a sip or two. 

A sip or two— the Pisco Sour had an intense citrus tang, biting and aggressive, but was muted by sweet egg whites and cane syrup, while the Paper Fox was spicy and strong, layered with whiskey, lime juice, maraschino liqueur and ginger syrup. Sexy.

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The petite roasted beet salad made arugula attractive, with fat sweet deep-red beets, yellow-orange citrus, and a bright sherry vinaigrette. The sweet was countered with salty pungent blue cheese, spicy red onion slivers and meaty pecans. Harmony.

A thick mound of stringy tender pulled pork toped the flaky partha flatbread, creating a fierce dichotomy of textures, fueled by sweetness and smoke. The red cabbage upped the ante, adding an overwhelming crunch of freshness and pickled tang. Layered.

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Melty cheese and toasty breadcrumbs bonded over elbow pasta, smoldering with guilty pleasures. It was creamy and smooth, thick and enticing. There was just enough flavor to keep coming back for more. Addictive..

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Even though the first pizza was not the one we ordered, when we got our Amatriciana, it was hot and steamy. The cheese stretched and the pancetta crunched, refined just enough. Satisfying.

Lighting, ambiance and totally shareable dishes make Bea a lovely place for a date, even (especially) if you’re a little later than planned. Perfect.

RER

11.16.14

RER 11.16.14