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The
Sunday tunnel traffic was atrocious and I was late. Not just a few minutes late, like really late. Late enough that my dinner-date had time to get assigned
reading done and slowly sip a cocktail at the bar. Late.
By
the time I arrived, I was mortified, but the back of my great friend’s bent
head made everything better. Relief.
I was also
pleased that the place she picked for our rendez-vous was stunning. We were
meeting in mid-town, so quality can be sparse. But Bea Restaurant & Bar,
was kind of exactly what I was hoping for on that chilly night.
The
place has real atmosphere— thrown together round tables, white-washed brick
walls, dark cushiony booths, Edison bulbs and frames unite, giving off a cool, “hush-hush”
speakeasy vibe. The big central bar displays the booze like it’s art,
towering, lit and impressive. Chic Distress.
But we were
there to chat, nosh on some fancy eclectic bar food, and have a sip or
two.
A sip or two—
the Pisco Sour had an intense citrus tang, biting and aggressive, but was muted
by sweet egg whites and cane syrup, while the Paper Fox was spicy and strong,
layered with whiskey, lime juice, maraschino liqueur and ginger syrup. Sexy.
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The petite
roasted beet salad made arugula attractive, with fat sweet deep-red beets, yellow-orange
citrus, and a bright sherry vinaigrette. The sweet was countered with salty
pungent blue cheese, spicy red onion slivers and meaty pecans. Harmony.
A thick mound of
stringy tender pulled pork toped the flaky partha flatbread, creating a fierce dichotomy
of textures, fueled by sweetness and smoke. The red cabbage upped the ante,
adding an overwhelming crunch of freshness and pickled tang. Layered.
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Melty
cheese and toasty breadcrumbs bonded over elbow pasta, smoldering with guilty
pleasures. It was creamy and smooth, thick and enticing. There was just enough
flavor to keep coming back for more. Addictive..
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Even
though the first pizza was not the one we ordered, when we got our Amatriciana,
it was hot and steamy. The cheese stretched and the pancetta crunched, refined
just enough. Satisfying.
Lighting,
ambiance and totally shareable dishes make Bea a lovely
place for a date, even (especially) if you’re a little later than planned. Perfect.
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