Showing posts with label bistro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bistro. Show all posts

1.05.2015

DEJEUNER: L'Express

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The winter sun was shining and it was time for a lovely late lunch for a desperately needed catch-up and escape. We traveled across Park Avenue South and found ourselves in L’Express, a sweet little bistro that felt as if it was on an anonymous Parisian side street. The tables and chairs, the mirrors the colors, the tile, the menu, the everything… so French, so perfect for the midday rendez-vous.
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The house duck pâté appetizer came with country toast, a spicy mound of mustard, tart and tangy cornichons, briny black olives, fresh tomato swirls, and soggy dressed lettuce. The extremely large triangles of pâté were mildly intimidating, a generous portion of luscious decadence. Each accoutrement gave the silky, fatty pâté a unique flavor, making different elements shine while cutting the heaviness.
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Pretty onion soup garnished with a little green garnish was perfect to warm insides and make smiles. T he crouton dissolved in the small bowl, but the thick hot cheese stretched adding chew to the smooth broth that was studded with slinky onions.
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A gorgeous shallow bowl held more pumpkin ravioli than predicted with a light broth and sage. Each pocket was pleasantly plump and bursting with fresh feelings of fall. The filling was seriously pumpkin, with all those flavors of the season— spicy, sweet things. The herbal sage brought out the earthiness of the pumpkin and added distance between the filling and pumpkin pie.

The steak frites rounded out the bistro experience. Char and grill marks drastically contrasted the warm pink meat longing for salt. A tiny dressed salad brightened the heavy meat and perfectly soggy fries, balance.  

Despite its name and its hours, a lunch at L’Express could be leisurely. It was soulful and buttery, indulgent in a way that is almost effortless and quotidian—déjeuner.
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2.04.2014

HudsonRW: Bistro La Source


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Bistro La Source is a sweet little eatery on a corner in the Paulus Hook neighborhood, that transports its diners to Europe. The bistro is part of a small dining district boasting some of Jersey City’s other favorite dining establishments. The small restaurant has a little front bar lined with mirrors, recalling the French bistros of Paris, and dotted with fairy lights like the glittering of the Tour Eiffel.
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The restaurant participated in Super Week to finish up Hudson Restaurant Week, with a three-course prix fixe at $25 and wine pairings for an additional $16. The atmosphere friendly, the food delicious, and the price amazing—it was the perfect end HudsonRW.
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The small table had a simplicity that emanated an elegance that rests on the tip of the tongue. The little water glasses just big enough to hold three sips and the rustic bread and cool butter felt like laissez-faire. The dishes were just as effortless and delicious.
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The escargot and chicken liver and foie gras mousse were casual but foreign at the same time. The textures and smells entice— buttery, luxurious, exotic and rich. The escargot were garlicky orbs, tender and hot, and chewy. The mousse, paired with a robust Bordeaux, was fluffy and decadent, perfect on the toasty baguette with the sweet tangy pickled onion and the grainy fig mustardo. It was meaty, heavy and light like a guilty pleasure. Even the thin broth laced with white wine, butter, and garlic, from the moules was flavorful and satiating. Appetizer portions were just enough to capture all the layers completely.
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Pretty butternut squash agnolotti, paired with a sweet and wet Moscato, lined the long plate in a single row, each delicately overlapping its neighbor. The pool of beurre noisette was heavy with the warm flavors of sage and earthy grana padano cheese, but missing salt. Inside was a thick creamy light orange filling, close to a creamy sauce, with the faint color of butternut squash. However, the winter squash’s flavor was missing from the dish, but its sweetness swam in and out.
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The Alsatian Choucroute Garnie entrée was a very different kind of dish, demonstrating a German heaviness and lacking the graceful refinement. The plate was laden with smoked bratwurst, pork loin bacon, and knockwurst, with potatoes, carrots and Reisling braised kraut. Each meat was salty and savory, but also merged perfectly with the tangy sweet kraut. This dish was weighty and round, with various textures and subtle flavor profiles.
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Dessert was contained, simple and classic. The crème caramel had a slick texture but the custard tasted too eggy, interrupting the burned sugar caramel flavor. The apples in the Jersey apple crumble were not sweet, but soft and a little tart, and the cinnamon gelato smoothed. The chocolate mousse had rum inflections, but was dense, chocolaty with a few white chocolate disks and a dose of heavy whipped cream.
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The food was absolutely delicious and the atmosphere was inviting.  The menu items are constructed with care and high quality ingredients, while the service is direct and courteous. Bistro La Source is a little treat, a small gem creating comforting food that takes you away without going too far.
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10.22.2012

Pardon my FRENCH: Paradou


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There were only a few things that I desperately wanted for my birthday; good company, good food, and foie gras. My birthday weekend (starting Thursday the 11th at 7pm and ending Sunday the 14th at noon with cake) was quite a success, because all of my requisites were met, and most everything was beyond my expectations. I am a really lucky girl.

The first phase took place at Paradou, in the Meatpacking district of the City, as per the suggestion of one of my good foodie friends. After seeing the five varieties of foie gras at Paradou, the decision was already made for me...Paradou for the fat duck insides.

The little insert menu listed the five varieties (1 for $19, 2 $29, 3 $39, 5 $49... a deal). So our party indulged in all of the foie gras that the restaurant offered, according to my wishes. Our waiter gave us a very specific way to eat it, starting with the mildest pairing to the most intense. It was only a suggestion, but it felt stronger than that. We got the full rundown, from the spices to the cooking technique employed. Each foie came with another component to pair with it; sometimes fruity and sweet, others acidic, or meaty nuts, but each harmonized with the foie to create a kind of different experience.

We went according to the structure in place prescribed by the waiter, which was difficult because each of the five different styles looked alluring, and we (I) wanted to pounce.

Though foie gras is comprised of the innards of fattened duck or geese, there was something light about some of the different varieties. The last, explained as the least mild, felt light and almost fluffy, whipped to the texture of a mousse, and was draped in a luxurious red wine reduction, dubbed caramel. It was so aerated it even melted in our mouths like a dessert would. It was paired with honey-glazed almonds and fennel for a crunch that the foie gras custard was missing. The savory element was almost forgotten, because of the light texture, the caramel like reduction, and even the sweet almonds, but somehow the light fennel flavors and the meaty innards of the almonds brought it back.

The first was mildest, salty, thinly sliced, and flat. Crusted with fennel, and was accompanied by candied fennel and a red wine reduction. It felt like butter, smooth and almost sweet, almost like it would smear on the toasty French bread.

Paradou’s second foie gras was another one of the table’s favorite. This was much thicker, almost meatier. This variety was stuffed with a pistachio mixture at the center, blanched in red wine then air-dried and then rolled in a pistachio dust, really encapsulating the flavor of the pistachio. The two meaty flavors, the foie and the pistachio, created a feeling completely different than the first. The tiny dollop of cherry tomato and coriander jam was just a little sweet, but the pairing maintained its savory heaviness.

The third, was a foie brûlé, topped with sugar and caraway seeds, and brûléd. The top of the foie gras was toasted, and crunchy, sweet and burned. To me the idea felt inventive and intriguing, but unfortunately I did not enjoy the flavor combination. The burned flavor overtook what the fattiness and the mixture of sweet and savory was not successful in this endeavor. The complementary pairing was macadamia nuts soaked in Lillet, a French aperitif wine. They felt like they were candied and overbearing. Their strong flavors competed with the intense tastes of the foie gras. Though the crunchy and meaty texture of the nuts, countered the soft, almost spreadable foie gras.

The fourth, a marinated foie gras, was not high on our list of favorites. It was dry, and almost like pate (though there is nothing wrong with pate). This one felt too separated, though the onion and chestnut marmalade that went with it was delicious, even with the other creations.

I liked the play on desserts and sweet things that Paradou employed with several of their foie gras selections. The foie gras brûlé was an obvious take on the classic French dessert. And the last variety dubbed “foie gras flan,” with its mousse like texture, really indulged in the feelings that accompany custards. Not only were these two outright dessert mimickers, but also the other three pairings had elements that implicated dessert and sweetness to counter the heaviness.

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Despite all the delicious duck fat we consumed and enjoyed, the question of service came about. Initially everyone was great; they let us occupy the whole bar while waiting for the last two of our party arrived.

The space is very small and separated into two dining areas. The front was sweet, with a big window looking out onto the street, white, and simple. We were first seated in the front, but when my foodie friend arrived, she asked if we could move to a table in the second seating area. This was an enclosed patio that was reminiscent of indoors and outdoors at the same time; foliage and light fixtures, fence and night air. It was pretty, and I could understand why she wanted our party to sit there.

Our server was very attentive and he had tremendous knowledge of the menu, as well as the wine list. In general he was just friendly, but professional at the same time, like he was there to help us through the French adventure.

I ordered the fillet steak that was listed to us as the evening’s specials. It sounded delicious. I always love steak, but this came with truffled purple potato mash, so it was necessary. Unfortunately, the steak dish did not turn out to be the happy fairy tale I was hoping for. Though the chef’s suggestion was medium rare, I opted for medium rare on the rare side (per usual), though our waiter said that medium rare would be perfect. When the entree came it looked delicious, stark and subtle. However, cutting into the end furthest from the bone, the meat was cooked to a startling medium well. I tasted it and was unhappy, as my mouth was ready for pink juiciness. We all inspected the meat, and deemed it not medium rare by any stretch. We sent it back, with some explanation.

Just a few minutes later, a man who was not our server returned with my steak. Only this time they cut the meat closer to the bone, to show how it was cooked there. He explained that it was actually the same cut of meat, and in fact it was medium rare. He ended up telling me what I already knew; that the meat closer to the bone was less cooked than the extremities of the meat. I frowned and tasted it after he walked away. I was still disappointed and dissatisfied, especially since I was under the impression that medium rare, should be medium rare throughout the majority of the cut, not in a small percentage. At that point, it just didn’t taste good; the cut, the execution, the attitude, so we sent it back again. We asked for the same man who brought it out again, and explained the situation to him, each one of us piping in a little. He was less than polite and mildly belittling, inferring that I did not know what I was talking about. In the end, he took the dish.  

This event aroused discussion, that night and the next week. It was unfortunate customer service by that man, while our server tried to make everything right, and pick the mood back up. Rather than giving me another fresh piece of meat, I was given the same piece with an attitude. Paradou, is not the kind of place, apparently, that relies on regulars, because if it was, there would have been more of an effort in the vein of customer service with my steak. It is the kind of place where people go for the name and social standing, so extensive customer service is not necessary to build a relationship. I wished the situation was handled differently, because now I do not know if I would return, even for the long list of fatty foie gras or the sweet little atmosphere.

The cast of characters at my birthday dinner was perfect. They all stood up for me, and agreed with me during the steak debacle, but chose my wines, kept it pouring, and made me laugh far too much. They also indulged in the decadence of foie gras with me (troopers). They were the best part of the meal. This time it was my company that overtook the food, creating the great birthday experience that it was. 
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10.17.2012

pre.HEAT

See what's just around the corner with foodie ventures. Even more fall is on its way, so stay tuned for the FoodFacts and other autumnal goodies in store. Are you as excited for the comforting fall recipes and goodies as I am? Halloween is at our doorstep and that means Thanksgiving is right around the corner, which means great food, great seasonal candy... and great food adventures.
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Also, don't forget to take a peak at FOOD-tography and yelp for more delicious tidbits.
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10.08.2012

Conte de FEES: Madame Claude Cafe

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Once upon a time, on a precarious corner in Jersey City, four hungry diners met at the French Bistro, Madame Claude Cafe, for a double date. A note on the door described “No Credit Cards Accepted,” and the bistro is known to be Bring Your Own. The party of four was prepared for the second requisite, but the second required some mild wandering in the area. Luckily a cash machine is close enough, right across the street (whew).

Le roi, la reine, la princesse and le prince, sat at a little plain table for four, simply adorned with the silverware and a small candle, settled in frosted glass. The small dining area was open into the kitchen, warm and inviting with the smells of France and heat. Each was laden with French trinkets and souvenirs, reminiscent of an adventure in the multicultural Paris. An eye catcher in the petit café was the large chalkboard, bringing the feeling to the quotidian. The specials of the evening, scribbled on it, seemed enticing, and enhanced the small, but varied regular menu.

The tale continues like this…

Les Assiettes
Les Escargots
Snails feel mildly exotic, not necessarily on every menu, but they are very present in French fare. These were smothered in a butter, garlic and parsley sauce, that was so aromatic and rich it nearly drowned out the tender snails. The sauce was intensely garlic flavored, a taste that lingered on the tongue throughout the meal. Though clouded with parsley, the butter sauce tasted only of garlic and felt like butter.  The actual escargot were tasty gems, chewy and soft, but meaty at the same time. These snails were delicate and consumed by the flavor of garlic, leaving it almost impossible to find the true flavor of the little snails, other than their smooth texture which almost fell apart in the mouth. ($9)

Calamars en Sauce
Calamari on the other hand is not as foreign to menus as escargot, but here at Madame Claude’s, they are not breaded and fried, but sautéed in a rustic white wine sauce. This left the calamari vulnerable and allows the actual meat to be tasted. The rings were chewy but also buttery and delicate. The sauce was a sharp contrast, tangy and tart, feeling almost vinegary from the wine, with scallions, shreds of carrots, and peppers. The other ingredients were all contrasting flavors, colors and textures, from the succulent calamari. ($10)

Assiette de Pate
The large pate plate, came with several slices of two very different kind of pates, and at the center a little bowl filled with tiny pickled treats (cipolini, baby olives, gerkins). One of the pates was smoother and creamy, and it spread on the bread almost like a butter would. This variety was more “livery” tasting, but sophisticated and decadent. The other was more chunky, stained glassed with different textures and flavors. This pate felt more rustic, heavily flavored with moments of garlic and salt.  The baby pickles with their tangy tartness, cut the richness of the liver. (Large $16/ Small $12-imported)

Plats Principaux
Beef Burgundy
The beef burgundy stew was described being accompanied by a heap of rice, but the plate arrived sans rice. The shallow bowl was filled with meat pieces and course chopped onions and mushrooms, and very little liquid gravy. The meat was tender, but did not contain much flavor. The rice could have been a good base, to make the dish more substantial, but there was plenty of meat. A side accoutrement was a fried potato ball. The inside was like fried dough, soft and airy, while the outside was crunchy and golden. These did not really taste of potato but had their faint essence.

Seafood Bouillabaisse
The seafood bouillabaisse was another special that evening. The fish, muscles, and calamari were delicious, but the broth was too salty and seafood briny. Part of the enjoyable thing about seafood is that natural salt that comes with it but in this case it was too intense. All the bits in the soup were succulent and soft, not over cooked in the least and really fresh. The interactive crouton with a garlic aioli and cheese, added fun and other flavors and crunchy textures.

Couscouse Madame Claude
The couscous dish from the a la carte menu was delicious. On first glance the dish seemed rudimentary; the presentation was not lovely and the components were all the same rusty brown color. But once the scent floated into the nose, it invaded and was hypnotizing. The dish was spicy and warm with cinnamon and Moroccan spices. There also other large elements like a piece of orange squash, and juicy chicken, and a delicate but meaty lamb sausage, all bathed in the seasoning and spices. ($21)

Jarret d’Agneau au Romarin et au Vin Blanc
This was a very simple meat veggie potato kind of meal; braised lamb shank, petit pois and gratin dauphinois. The lamb was cooked well, tender and juicy, but it was glazed with a sauce that did not compliment the meat. The sauce was a heavy dark gravy, but almost unnecessary. The peas were delicious; they were small beads of freshness that countered the rich meatiness of the lamb and the creamy heavy potatoes. ($22)

Les Desserts
Dessert time was crepe time. The lemon and sugar crepe, was tart and sweet at the same time, eased by the rubbery thin pancake. When it was lemony it was super super tart, with a highly lemon pungency. The other was a special request; it was a crepe with cooked pear and caramel (instead of the chocolate on the menu). The caramel was chosen in an effort to gain the sweet layers, instead of the bitter tastes that chocolate can produce. But in the end, the caramel was burnt, and was just as bitter as dark chocolate. The crème brulee would have been superb had the crystallized sugar on top not been burnt to almost black. The sugars on top are meant to create a browned crust, but this had been given too much heat. The burned flavor plagued the dessert and masked the lovely custard underneath.

La Morale de l’histore
The service seemed a bit confused. The four were given the specials run down by one waitress, who had just arrived to work and was out of the loop. They gave their orders to another. The place is small so perhaps sharing tables is how the wait staff operates, but in some instances this rendered them forgotten. The royal couples had to ask for bread after seeing many of the other tables receiving it as well as a bucket to keep their white wine chilled. They had to flag down someone to take their mains order. No one even came by the table to ask if everything was ok. There was limited order to the small restaurant, and as usual, their meal took much longer than necessary. The staff was understanding, however when the princess’s crepe came with caramel and chocolate, and after stating that she did not like chocolate it was remade.

The meal was not an inexpensive feast, but it was one of luxurious and imported ingredients, and things you do not get to see every day. The quality of ingredients and the preparation was evident, but all in all the French flavors may not have been the princess’s favorites. The appetizers were far more intriguing and satisfying than any of the entrees. And the unfortunate missteps in the dessert and service were alarming considering the higher than low price points. The laissez faire atmosphere did not bode well with the hungry diners, though I suspect two will likely return again.

Fin
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