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Coconut cake means Easter
(or maybe it’s the other way around). But somehow, coconut
cake frequently makes an appearance after our family’s fresh Easter dinner.
I always associate this kind of cake with Easter, white patented leather shoes
for Easter mass, fragrant lilies and warmer weather.
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There’s no way
around it; cake is sweet and coconut cake can be super sweet. It’s that too
good batter, dense with flaked coconut and sometimes pudding mix, and the
creamy butter cream frosting, made with all that butter and powdered sugar, and
a liberal coating of sweet flaked coconut.
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This year, we
opted for Melissa Clark’s recipe for
Coconut
Layer Cake adapted from a Telepan favorite. My mother and I stalk
cooking.nytimes.com and read Wednesday’s edition of the Food Section, and this
recipe immediately grabbed our attention. Clark implies that this version of
the classic coconut cake is less cloying and less sweet in her piece “A
Sugar Rush, Not Crush,” making it even more desirable for our Easter treat.
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Even though the
cake ended up tasting less shockingly sweet, this coconut cake was super rich
with butter and eggs. It was moist and dense, but fluffy and almost savory at
the same time. Unlike the recipe, we mixed sweetened and unsweetened coconut
flakes into the batter, which added texture and life. The rum and orange juice
added a mature flare, while the smooth and light cream cheese frosting
continued in that vein. Toasted sweetened coconut added more complexity with
nutty caramel tones and a crunchy crust.
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The coconut
Easter cake turned out to be a beautiful confection—gorgeous to look at and
lovely to taste.
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food for thought...