MangiaMore: lightened HUMMINGBIRD cake

RER 3.27.16

I generally equate coconut cake with Easter. In fact, there has been the rare occasion that I have eaten coconut cake outside of Easter or that I did not enjoy coconut cake on Easter. The two just go together in my mind—like peanut butter and jelly would, if I could eat it. Cake and holiday meld to one (but not really).

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This Easter, however, was one of those rare occasions when coconut cake was not devoured on the holiday. This year was a little different. Why? Who knows? Perhaps, spring break sprung and there was so much to do, or a newish job caused sharp ups and downs, or downtime is the new norm. Perhaps, we have all been more wary of sweets and what we eat (by all, I mean everyone in my family except for me). Have no fear; cake was still involved.

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Hummingbird cake has been a hot topic here for the last couple weeks or so—something about a yoga teacher needing the southern specialty for her mother’s birthday. The anecdote sparked interest and a Google search (or two), and eventually, led me to make a lighter version Hummingbird cake for Easter.

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At first, I was alarmed by the quantity and the diversity of the fruits that come together to compose this cake. A lighter version means less oil and more fruits (more banana and applesauce). Sure, I have had banana bread and banana cake, I have made applesauce cake, and I am mildly familiar with pineapple upside-down cake. But all three—together— sounded nuts.

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That is until I ate my first slice. Banana is the only really prevalent flavor in the layers of not-so-sweet cake. It is not intense, but round and full, reminiscent of the banana bread I am familiar with. The applesauce vanishes into pure moisture, holding the dense cake together. And the pineapple pieces are only discernible when encountered, but the studs are sweet and tangy, like the scrumptious cream cheese frosting blanketing the cake. This recipe was a breeze (once the bananas were ripe enough—we put the bananas in a brown paper bag with a super ripe avocado) and definitely an easy classic.

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re.CAP: EASTER

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Timing is everything. Or nothing.

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Easter came early this year— almost like an afterthought before the actual thought. It crept up on us, shocking like the mystery that it celebrates. Acting much like the weather: temperamental, moody, unpredictable, and early. It’s been an up and down of temperature—unseasonably warm one day and typically cold the next.  Lions and lambs fighting and ending in an oddly unbalanced stalemate.  Hot and cold like the most passionate affair or weary teacher. But Easter came and went, as did March—quickly, quietly, and early (by early, I mean, time is moving forward faster than I could have imagined or even hoped in darker times). And now it’s gone.

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Easter ushers a breath of fresh air after stale Lent, dark with deprivation and reflection, and quarter three, full and dense with symbolism and five-paragraph essays. The death and darkness of Lent and winter months culminate in Resurrection and the rebirth of spring. Easter is a moment of new beginnings and celebratory feasts.

And feast we did.

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Timing is everything.

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MangiaMore: COCONUT layer cake

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Coconut cake means Easter (or maybe it’s the other way around). But somehow, coconut cake frequently makes an appearance after our family’s fresh Easter dinner. I always associate this kind of cake with Easter, white patented leather shoes for Easter mass, fragrant lilies and warmer weather.

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There’s no way around it; cake is sweet and coconut cake can be super sweet. It’s that too good batter, dense with flaked coconut and sometimes pudding mix, and the creamy butter cream frosting, made with all that butter and powdered sugar, and a liberal coating of sweet flaked coconut.

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This year, we opted for Melissa Clark’s recipe for Coconut Layer Cake adapted from a Telepan favorite. My mother and I stalk cooking.nytimes.com and read Wednesday’s edition of the Food Section, and this recipe immediately grabbed our attention. Clark implies that this version of the classic coconut cake is less cloying and less sweet in her piece “A Sugar Rush, Not Crush,” making it even more desirable for our Easter treat.

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Even though the cake ended up tasting less shockingly sweet, this coconut cake was super rich with butter and eggs. It was moist and dense, but fluffy and almost savory at the same time. Unlike the recipe, we mixed sweetened and unsweetened coconut flakes into the batter, which added texture and life. The rum and orange juice added a mature flare, while the smooth and light cream cheese frosting continued in that vein. Toasted sweetened coconut added more complexity with nutty caramel tones and a crunchy crust. 

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The coconut Easter cake turned out to be a beautiful confection—gorgeous to look at and lovely to taste.

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