MangiaMore: lightened HUMMINGBIRD cake

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I generally equate coconut cake with Easter. In fact, there has been the rare occasion that I have eaten coconut cake outside of Easter or that I did not enjoy coconut cake on Easter. The two just go together in my mind—like peanut butter and jelly would, if I could eat it. Cake and holiday meld to one (but not really).

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This Easter, however, was one of those rare occasions when coconut cake was not devoured on the holiday. This year was a little different. Why? Who knows? Perhaps, spring break sprung and there was so much to do, or a newish job caused sharp ups and downs, or downtime is the new norm. Perhaps, we have all been more wary of sweets and what we eat (by all, I mean everyone in my family except for me). Have no fear; cake was still involved.

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Hummingbird cake has been a hot topic here for the last couple weeks or so—something about a yoga teacher needing the southern specialty for her mother’s birthday. The anecdote sparked interest and a Google search (or two), and eventually, led me to make a lighter version Hummingbird cake for Easter.

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At first, I was alarmed by the quantity and the diversity of the fruits that come together to compose this cake. A lighter version means less oil and more fruits (more banana and applesauce). Sure, I have had banana bread and banana cake, I have made applesauce cake, and I am mildly familiar with pineapple upside-down cake. But all three—together— sounded nuts.

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That is until I ate my first slice. Banana is the only really prevalent flavor in the layers of not-so-sweet cake. It is not intense, but round and full, reminiscent of the banana bread I am familiar with. The applesauce vanishes into pure moisture, holding the dense cake together. And the pineapple pieces are only discernible when encountered, but the studs are sweet and tangy, like the scrumptious cream cheese frosting blanketing the cake. This recipe was a breeze (once the bananas were ripe enough—we put the bananas in a brown paper bag with a super ripe avocado) and definitely an easy classic.

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3.27.16

it's all in the NEIGHBORHOOD: Kipsey's

Photo Credit: Christina Clusiau

There is no way around it, Kipsey’s is what owner, Arnon Magal, describes it as: “a neighborhood restaurant done right.”

Kipsey’s encapsulates an old school meaning of the diner, not the current connotation of mile long menus, greasy spoons, and rapid-fire service. It’s a neighborhood spot, dishing out homemade “simple, generous American comfort food.” The depth is in the sincere flavors, succinct variety and quality ingredients. Everything is made from scratch, in house, everyday— from the mayo on the burgers, to the hot sauce and the bacon. There is no mistaking the meticulous care and passion, as Magal says, the food is “simple but we take ourselves seriously.” 

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The corner restaurant located in Kip’s Bay, which Magal believes to be “the last real neighborhood in the City,” is not exactly trendy. It offers “straightforward, honest food,” with recipes that are “transparent” and “nothing highly sophisticated,” according to Magal. “We are not fighting to be unique, “ he continues. “But striving and succeeding at being accessible.” The prices are affordable, making Kipsey’s a place you can frequent.

 

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Kipsey’s presents an eclectic gathering of starters, with flavors that characterize New York City— smooth and subtle humus, smoky grilled wings. Though, the chipotle corn bread was lacking some heat, the parsley butter met the sweetness of the bread. The cured salmon, house-cured for a quick 24 hours, was absolutely amazing, with a sweet wave of salt and dill heightened by cool crème fraiche. But, the thick bacon was a must.

 

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Even the entrees speak to the American South and beyond. Favorites like meatloaf and rotisserie chicken are side by side with grilled salmon and the Kipsey’s burger. The meats like the slow smoked brisket and the braised short rib are definitely highlights on the menu. Both meats were cooked expertly, tender to the point where they melted in the mouth. Texture of the meats really took the forefront, whereas the flavors were subtle. The same was true of the schnitzel, which was livelier with a squeeze of the lemon. But each was reminiscent of home.

 

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There is nothing complicated about the sides either, just simple comfort food. With sides like cauliflower, mac and cheese, coleslaw and more, there is something for everyone. The creamy mashed potatoes had a welcomed ratio of cream and butter, while the spinach was studded with tons of garlic. The smoked baked beans and the hamhock greens, however, were missing a little life. The hand cut fries, Magal reveals, go through an involved process to reach his satisfaction, “crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.”

 

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Desserts too were a mish mash of origins and styles. The apple crumble had a deconstructed approach, too disjointed to be a classic. Timeless pecan pie was transformed a little to a tiny individual pie, which was lost in almost savory fresh whipped cream. These modifications felt dishonest to the Kipsey’s approach.

 

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There is nothing innovative about technique, flavor profile or even style but that is not what the restaurant is about. Kipsey’s prides itself on “generosity, comfort and neighborhood” and being “super casual and super friendly.” The staff make guests feel welcomed and special every single visit.  Magal and his wife both make the rounds, calling each regular by name. The family friendly warm atmosphere creates a sense of community, even though Magal says, “people come to Kipsey’s to eat!”

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Kipsey's  

438 Second Avenue

New York, NY 10010

Ph. 646.590.3410

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12.20.13

 

second YELPing...

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Photos taken with phones are not always the most appealing, but sometimes they are all you got (whether you are being rude or not). However, they offer a different aesthetic, and maybe a harsher light. Phone photos feel rougher around the edges, more spontaneous and in the moment, kind of like my impromtu catch up session at Bourbon Street Bar and Grille. Check out my yelp review for the bar eatery.

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Let me have some food for thought. What would you like to see, eat and read about. Tell me about via email, in the comments, or even on the foodie ventures facebook page (which if you have not liked yet, you should get on that).

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8.7.13

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MangiaMore: DEAD velvet cupcakes

 

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And the last contender of the Halloween Cupcake Wars (it may as well be Halloween 2013 at this point, sorry for the delay) is the illustrious, Dead Velvet. Dark red, haunting, mysterious and a southern classic.

You got it, this bloody red velvet cupcake was armed and ready for a fierce flavor battle with its two other competitors. As always, when baking red velvet (or blue velvet, depending on who my patron is), I turned to the queen of southern favorites, Paula Deen. There is no way to go wrong with this recipe of hers. I think it is simple and straightforward, with just enough room for interpretation and creativity. I have made the recipe what feels like a dozen times, and on each occasion the cake is moist and just flavorful enough to combat the strength of the tangy sweet cream cheese frosting.

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As the theme of this long, drawn-out battle, was Halloween, I decided to continue on with a dead motif, echoing the Graveyard cupcakes also in the running. To top the dark, bloody red cake, I imagined a black frosting to provide a stark contrast. To my amazement, the ease of finding black food coloring was astonishing at this spooky time of year (I had never even looked for black food coloring before, as blue or red were my top choices). Unfortunately, after adding drop after drop on top of drops of black food coloring, my creamy cream cheese frosting only became a dark slate grey. It was not the heavy black I was looking for, but the dark grey inspired the images of gravestones. Of course then, that was the direction I headed toward. Using the incorrect frosting tip on (ssshhhh) bought decorating frosting, I was able to scribble some haunting R.I.Ps, initials, and scary looking (in a funny, not a terrifying way) creatures.

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I must say, these monsters were pretty delicious. This time I added a smidge more cocoa powder than the legend prescribed, mostly because I wanted a touch more flavor to stand up to the bold frosting. And I also put in a little bit of almond extract, as well as just a little less of the vanilla extract. A happy accident (or lack of ingredient) caused an instantaneous attachment to almond extract in red velvet cake batter. The addition adds a nuttiness, which embellishes the chocolate flavors, while creating a harmonious contrast to the tangy cream cheese. With the welcomed modifications, I found a balance and my Dead Velvet cupcakes were a success (to taste, though aesthetically, not so much… must work on cake decorating skills).

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So now the moment of truth…. 

And the truth is… All three of the cupcakes were delicious, and disappeared like vampires when the sun comes out. Each was completely different and mildly surprising. The Candy Corn cupcake featured the spices and flavors we all attach to fall, while the Graveyard goodies had a moist surprise in the middle and strong edible decorative elements, and the Dead Velvet transformed a classic into something eerily delightful. They are all winners in my book, and tasted even better in the dark (thanks, Sandy). But with Thanksgiving just around the corner, looks like I will be giving those pumpkin cupcakes another shot.

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10.29.12 

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