MangiaMore: BLUEBERRY summer dessert

RER 6.29.15

Crumble, cobbler, brown betty, crisp, grunt, slump, buckle… whatever it’s called… we made a blueberry summer dessert. This hybrid treat has elements of each of these semi-distinctive (but maddeningly similar) summer favorites like the doughy biscuit parts of a cobbler and the crunchy sweet topping of a crisp.

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In many ways our blueberry concoction is most like a brown betty. A brown betty has the saucy warm fruit in between layers of yummy crumbs. Whatever we made has sweetened cooked blueberries squeezed between a soft cobber-like airy dough on the bottom and a crisp candy like streusel topping. Our whatchyamacallit had the best of both worlds (and is the perfect base for large amounts of ice cream) using two separate recipes for the bottom and for the topping.

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AJR 6.28.15

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The tart tang and tiny pop of the blueberries complemented the layers surrounding the fruit filling. The streusel topping studding the sea of blueberries softened with sugar and time mirrored the bursting quality of the dark skin of the berries. It crunched with the texture of crystallized and browned sugar, similar in effect to the feeling of changing berries on the tongue. While the cloud-like cake resting at the bottom of the dessert recalled the inside meat of the fresh blueberries, it was lush, fluffy, smooth and light.

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These three disparate layers came together to make a textural playground, the rise and fall of feelings and varied profiles. And the combination happens to be perfect for Independence Day (which is just around the corner) or your next backyard barbecue. A blueberry whatchyamacallit screams summer!

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6.28.15

RER 6.28.15

the MOST important meal of the day : Sam A.M.

RER 4.26.14

It’s a sweet small spot in Paulus Hook, Jersey City— just enough room to keep busy and demand a wait, but a high enough turnover that things move quickly. The menu is brief with just enough sweet and enough savory to please. A few breakfast sandwiches constructed with fresh eggs and seasonal ingredients, some lunch sandwiches topped with roasted chicken or BBQ brisket, a succinct list of plates like omelets and scrambles, and a few salads sweet and savory alike. On top of that, Sam A.M. offers a wild list of fresh doughnuts— from glazed to cake, filled and topped— and other pastry and tasty treats.

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The classic breakfast sandwich was crisp and crunchy, thin and small. A thick slice of bacon interrupted the salty cheese and the cooked-through egg. It was all things that breakfast sandwiches need, but was not fat enough to be filling. The seasoned hash browns were tasty and warm on the side of the plate, a nice addition to the slender sandwich.

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As for the chicken and waffles, it was a dramatic twist on the classic. It was fresh and hearty. The gravy soaked pulled chicken draped the soft Belgian waffles, fluffy like biscuits, while a sweet and tangy cranberry syrup added dimension. The flavors, much like the menu, successfully mixed sweet and savory, and danced on the tongue to bring together two ends of the spectrum. It was rich and lavish. The creamy gravy made the waffle delicate and submissive, heavy and tender at the same time. Even the stringy juicy chicken was under the command of the gravy.

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French toast is a brunch necessary, and this challah french toast was utterly scrumptious, topped with soaked berries and dusted with a little powdered sugar. The bread was just soft enough, custardy, not too eggy, with moments of vanilla. But the berries, the black and blue berries were like drenched gems, brandied beauties, icing on the delightful cake. The little fruits made syrup almost superfluous, but still a sweet addition, bringing on a little saccharine note.

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Doughnuts to-go were necessary. The Boston cream doughnut, slathered with stiff dark chocolate and filled with wet pale yellow cream, did not even make it home. It was a luxury that Dunkin Donuts could never afford; real and alive. The recommended applesauce doughnut was cakey and pretty, dense like any dessert should be.

The sundrenched room made for a lovely little brunch; clatters and chatters and Saturday banter. A friendly staff, delicious doughnuts and super strong coffee make Sam A.M. Café more than just a sweet spot.

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4.26.14

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photo op: GRADUATION goods

RER 5.10.13

This weekend was a big one. My sister graduated from University of Pennsylvania (I'm a proud sister), and it took the whole weekend to do it. There were half a dozen different events and ceremonies manifest to her success and culminate the year. On top of that, a bunch of family members flew to Philly to celebrate. And with family and celebration, always comes food. Check out a few bites from this graduation weekend.

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P.S. Congratulations sissie! You are super and will continue to be a star! Love you tons.

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