RER 8.23.14 |
Zuni Cafe in San Francisco offers bright light and even brighter service. The glass
façade let the light in, and it swelled brighter, freed by high ceilings.
Though at some tables everything was washed under a golden yellow hue,
immutable sunshine.
The menu is
packed with fresh, classic and classy bites, reflecting the bright light
strolling in. A wide range of delightful items erring on the side of heavy and
savory, filled the page. Along with the refined flavors and seasonal favorites,
Zuni infuses comfort and familiarity with wood-fired pizzas, grilled sausages
and artisan burgers, fresh salads and hearty mains.
Starting with
salty prosciutto, tangy and creamy spreadable goat cheese and smoky charred
grilled green padron peppers to mix and match, created a personalized kind of
balance curated by the kitchen. Roasted heirloom tomato soup warmed with a
sweet and tart resonance, cooled with yogurt drizzled in a “Z.” Sharing a Zuni
pizza, thin and flat, light and bright with slivers of red onion, hunter green
sorrel, thin pancetta and hot disks of pepper, made for buttery memories and a
great pillow to appease.
Continuing with
linguine zinging with tart Meyer lemon, silky chanterelles, green chard and
nutty parmesan satiated with a bright familiarity. The pasta swirled and twined
in the sunlight, ushering in the season. For something heavier, a solitary
sausage, tender flavorful and robust, served with round chickpeas and green
greens. The beans were meaty and mealy, playing with the textures of the
crumbling sausage and swaying greens. And for the lunch traditionalist, a fat
house ground hamburger, capped with cheese, aioli, Zuni pickles and a grilled
rosemary focaccia.
Dessert can be a
dark and dense chocolate Gateau Victoire, or a cheese plate with salty cheese
and sweet juicy fruits. Or it can be a beautiful tower constructed of sticky
meringue discs layered with fancy cream and served with dripping stewed figs
and savory walnuts. Light as clouds and bright as the airy eatery…
RER
8.23.14
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food for thought...