 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
We (and I don't mean the
royal We) have always been a fan of the Japanese import Iron Chef
Morimoto, constantly in awe of his poise in Kitchen Stadium and innovative
flavor combinations in battle. Just watching him move in the kitchen on tv and
the plates that he produces, makes you want to taste his food and feel his
vision with your appetite. So that is what we did during our little vacation to
the historic city. We indulged in the swanky Morimoto restaurant in
Philadelphia, with open hearts, minds and mouths (and wallets).
 |
| JAR 1.10.13 |
From the outside, Morimoto
looks understated and obscure, but almost like a club. Upon entering, the front
is low but wide and the open concept dining area is flooded with odd blue
lights and rosy hues, oranges and purples. The restaurant is trendy and hip.
Stark whites and greens, but everything morphed with the light, making it all
glow softer and less harsh. The place was loud with chatter and music, but
somehow the intimate booth like seating (not soft and cushiony, but horizontal
and planes), and lack of walls created bubbles. Every element was included on
purpose, from the straight lines to the dancing lights, even the immutable
center piece at many of the tables.
 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
The menu was stark and
beautiful looking, aesthetic and minimalistic, just like the décor. On the
surface simple and easy, but through the details and the words more complex and
intriguing. The blank white sheets revealed lines of food inventions and
invitations, ranging from starters, hot and cold dishes, and even sushi rolls.
Despite the simplicity of the aesthetic, the menu was overwhelming, a fair mix
of familiar and expected as well as flourishes of refinement, flair, and yes,
Iron Chef.
 |
| JAR 1.10.13 |
Somehow, when I was looking
at the menu, it was impossible for me to take anything in. I just saw words,
not dishes, nothing came together for me. Maybe I was in awe and too excited,
but it was hard to land on any one thing; everything seemed so intriguing, but
nothing stood out. The thought of choosing items for my meal was not only
daunting, but nearly impossible.
 |
| JAR 1.10.13 |
So we asked about the
tasting menu, an easy and mysterious way out, a potential resolution to our
dilemma. So we asked; why the different price points, what our server thought
about it, and what it entailed.
Price point $80, $120 and $150 The
price points, our server explained, mainly had to do with ingredient quality
and luxury. The preparations for most of the courses were be extremely similar,
but the ingredients would remain different. It would be the difference between
run of the mill tuna and the fancy fatty variety of toro tuna.
Server Our server was very nice, accommodating and really open to answering our slew of questions, even though she
appeared to be training the new guy. She patiently explained what the dining
adventure would involve and what to perhaps expect, though it would all remain
a mystery. She thought that it was a good way to explore the kitchen, and also
that it was an excellent choice.
Entails The tasting option involves 7 to
9 courses, blind, up to the chef’s discretion. There would be hot and cold
dishes, fish and otherwise, an intermezzo and to top it all off a Morimoto
dessert. Each dish and course would be explained and described by a server,
with enough detail to almost taste the item.
 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
It seemed like risk. It was
an opportunity to put our experience in the hands and the talents of the chef,
a way to understand the vision and the palate of the creator. But it was a risk
we were willing to take, running on the edge towards the discretion of the chef
and the vision of the restaurant.
We decided to let our
mouths go on an adventure, a journey that does not go too cheap.
We chose, after much
deliberation, to go for two different price points of the tasting; 80 and 120,
just so we could experience double the flavors and try to distinguish the
differences. It was another way to indulge and evolve, testing our tongues as
well as allowing them to experience.
 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
The first few courses were
cold, raw fish. Beautiful to look at, simplistic, and elegant at the same time,
just like the menu design and the atmosphere of the restaurant. The plates were
generally about the food that was on it, though the preparations felt like
every piece, every orb of caviar, or sprig of micro greens were chosen
specifically for that plate, your plate.
Some courses came in bowls,
like our first course of tartar, either yellow tail or toro. A perfect column
of beautiful raw fish drowned in a soy sauce. Each fish and price point had
different sauce, but very similar flavors. The crunchy onion, scallion, and
tiny beads of caviar, added a punch of flavor and texture. While some other
courses, like our fish carpaccio came in shallow dishes, drowned in delicate
sauces, sometimes sweet, sometimes tangy. But each time, no matter the vessel,
the sauce was meant to heighten, emphasize and transform the flavors of the
fish.
 |
| JAR 1.10.13 |
Maybe our tongues are not
acute enough, especially when it comes to raw fish, but the differences between
the different kinds were not always flagrantly noticeable. Sometimes when
certain courses were placed on our table in front of us, described and tasted,
it was not difficult to tell which was of the higher price point, mainly cause
of texture and flavor, and two completely different fish. Mostly in the course
right before the sour orange soda intermezzo, which featured a Spanish mackerel
at the lower point, and a smoother Japanese kampachi. The mackerel was much
more abrasive, less subtle, with dark skin and a more meaty flavor and
texture. It was a little harder to eat than the light colored kampachi, which
was slick and thick.
 |
| JAR 1.10.13 |
The hot courses were just
as pretty and carefully planned, but the differences between the price points
was much more obvious and easy to spot. Where the first of the hot courses for
then lower price, was a round scallop, plated pretty, the warm dish with the
higher price point was spice smeared lobster. Here the scallop seemed more
refined and elegant in preparation, but the ingredient might have been better,
arguably. The next hot course ventured closer to land, straying from sea
creatures. They even came close to comfort food, that we could be almost
familiar with, and have eaten before, but with a Morimoto twist. The $120 meal
featured a tiny stringy short rib, cooked perfectly, paired with a dollop of
creamy starchy parsnip and pickled endive. This was definitely a play on the
classic meat and potatoes, however this was a daintier version, not only
tasting size, but lighter and richer. The other land course was red duck breast
served with a cube of crispy rice and more red cranberry sauce. This too was
familiar and delicious, with elevated technique and ingredients.
 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
The last course brought us
back to cold elements and reinforced the vision of the restaurant, bringing in
traditional values, techniques and Japanese culture. We were given sushi, with
different kinds of fish on ovals of rice. It was obvious the ingredients were
the best, fresh, delicious and cared for, but somehow the rice overwhelmed the
beautiful fish. Not that it was a lot of rice, but it was pretty flavorful; it
was rich and buttery, not like the bland uncultivated rice we are used to at
our favorite sushi spots. The richness of the rice, brought down the innate
qualities of the raw fish, making them almost obsolete and disappear. I wanted
the fish to be the star like they had been with the other courses, not outshone
by rice.
 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
Dessert was heavy, contrary
to most of the dishes that we had that night. It was dark, tall, rich and
heavy. The dessert was a chocolate chestnut cake, meaty, bitter and sweet at
the same time, from the other elements on the plate. There was a glazed cumquat
bright and glistening, beautiful in contrast to the dark cake, and the tall
slice was dusted with rice pudding powder. A heavy ending to a long and luxurious dinner, that in someways left us hungry for more.
 |
| JAR 1.10.13 |
All in all, the experience
was amazing; an adventure for our tongues, and a great way to try some of the
brain child of Morimoto, our Iron Chef idle. Everything from the atmosphere, to
the food and its plating, to the service was precise and cultivated. It was a
curated experience from start to finish, especially participating in the
tasting menu. I am so glad we chose that way to eat at Morimoto. The food was
beautiful and delicious, but not the mind blowing level we were expecting, or
hoping for, but it was all about the ingredients rather than innovation in
preparation. I would definitely be inclined to go through a blind tasting like
that again...any time and most anywhere.
RER
1.11.13
 |
| RER 1.10.13 |
