HudsonRW: Greene Hook

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Greene Hook is new in town. It is rough around the edges, ready for refinement, but full of promise. Imbalance and excess were apparent throughout the regular menu items and the Hudson Restaurant Week prix fixe menu. Not only did the dishes feel unperfected, but also the fluidity of the eatery has not yet reached full potential. But, Greene Hook is on its way.

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The Spanish octopus starter from the main menu was scrumptious and layered. The octopus was tender and delicious with a fatty, succulent feel. It was the reference point for the feel of the other elements of the dish: surprise avocado echoed the texture of the octopus, while slinky shishito peppers paired with the slinky yuzu-compressed cucumber. The charred purple pink of octopus stood out against the melee of greens and the frizzy tempura, but each element combined to delight the senses.

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The skin of the entrée duck breast was crispy, whereas the center was almost over done, so the meat lost that gamey lusciousness that is associated with duck. Cashew crumble offered a richness that is already innate in duck, while sweet tart pickled grapes cut the decadence of the meat. A sunchoke puree brought a creamy element to the dish, its color and flavor matching the roasted turnips. Green beans brought color and freshness to the plate, helping with equilibrium.

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Proportions were off in the prix fixe pork belly appetizer— not enough crispiness to forgive the fat of the pork belly, not enough meat to savor the flavor, not enough peach to cleanse the palate, and not enough corn pudding to usher in summer. The peach and corn pudding were nice touches, helping to tip the scale towards balance, but the greasy fat outweighed and overwhelmed all, leaking into the golden yellow pool, contaminating it. The concept and aesthetics were on point, but its execution underwhelmed.

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One of the prix fixe offerings is the Scottish salmon entrée. The salmon had a beautiful crust, salty and substantial, but the meat itself was overwrought. The dish was buttery and drowning in that luxurious savoriness without enough relief. Momentary reprieve was found in the thin disks of peppery radish that were fresh and crisp. Even the earthy Swiss chard could not escape the relentless butter notes. The deep green vegetable could have deepened flavor profile and lightened the monotone heaviness through contrast. The bacon, chewy and crunchy, contributed to the buttery decadence with a meaty sharp saltiness.

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A non-conventional crème brûlée was the dessert course of the prix fixe meal. Part of what is so delightful about crème brûlée is texture and the play of warm and cold, the satisfying crack of the brûléed sugar crust, the custard smooth as silk. The modified crème brûlée managed to encapsulate similar flavors with the addition of too dense, too thick, immutable chocolate ganache. The texture of the middle layer was grainy and not completely effortless, while the foam was fun yet almost flavorless. The play on the classic needed a shock of intensified flavor and further play with consistency.

Greene Hook has some innovative and attractive offerings, but it is still quite green. With settling, the bar eatery can be a real regular spot in the neighborhood and a delicious addition to the Paulus Hook community.

There are only a few days left of Hudson Restaurant Week. Take advantage of the deals. See some of foodie ventures previous #HudsonRW adventures here.

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8.3.16

passport to PARIS: Pirouette

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There was something almost chronological about the three-course meal at Pirouette. Each dish grew on the one presented before and served as a foundation for the dish following it. Even the colors swelled and fell as the meal progressed, introducing a wave of feelings and connotations.

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The cold corn soup was sweet and summery, silky and creamy with floating basil oil and succulent chunks of lobster. Pretty bright green nasturtium leaves enlivened the golden yellow soup, bringing summer to life with the most vivid of hues. Every element was soft and stringy, smooth and luxurious, but light enough for warm weather.

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A sculpture of freshness interwoven with snappy pea shoots, crunchy gomasio wings and crisp fried onions grew from a base of a fat dull red-orange tomato. Tiny wild strawberries dotted the vertical salad, bringing sweetness to the mix, while the creamy mascarpone cooled and heightened refreshment. The combination was inimitable, a chorus of closely monitored textures and bold flavors that melded into one.

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Although, embellished with greenery continuing in the season vein, the veal main sang a heartier note, laden with chickpea panisse and earthy swiss chard. The meat remained tender and juicy, but it submitted to the grainy fried panisse, which crumbled and mystified. Bitter tart lemon confit brightened and balanced, bringing the dish full circle.

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Even heavier and darker, the Neapolitan of duck and foie gras, succumbed to decadence. The fatty duck, chewy and meaty, countered the buttery and velvety foie gras, creating a tug of war on the palate with seemingly compatible playmates. Black garlic richened the sumptuousness of the dish, while the dark cherries added a necessary sweet tanginess and acidity for balance.

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Dessert had recognizable moments, but further twists crafted something different. The rice pudding was reminiscent of home, creamy, sweet and soft, while the ribbons of salted caramel and the imperceptible caramelized hazelnuts added dimension. White peach pieces and dark blackberries danced under a boule of spicy rich clove ice cream, while sweet meringue and fragrant speculoos gave crunch to the varied dessert.

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Less warm and more hip, Pirouette brings together seasonal, high-end and quality ingredients  to create a building harmonious meal which is hearty and satisfying.

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ripple EFFECT : Amanda's

RER 10.17.14

There were five of them and it was almost too late to eat, but they knew they needed to, so they did. They had been there before, many times, but this time something felt a little different. There had been a small shift, like a timid constant daring for a change, only it makes changes so miniscule, they are almost imperceptible, just enough to ripple the surface and make people think.

The change was not in the service or the quality of ingredients. Amanda’s has always been one of the most consistent restaurants in Hoboken, never wavering from its high standards and the freshest, most seasonal ingredients.

Nor was it in the décor. The dining rooms still felt like the formal dining rooms of homes you might have been to. It remains timeless and comfortable, and just elevated enough to feel excellence.

Maybe it was the menu. Amanda’s does a few things very well, each dish may shift with the seasons, but these items are to be anticipated on the menu. This evening, some of those were indeed listed, but morphed to a recognizable unfamiliarity.

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As always, a polenta starter is featured on the menu.  This time it was the base for a spicy sausage ragu topped with pretty mache and salty strands of parmesan. The polenta was creamy and warm, as expected, but the ragu was multifaceted and distinct.

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The entrees too, were in typical form— a tower of starch, vegetable and protein—but mixed up and embellished. The flaky pink grilled salmon sat atop a thick slab of lobster mashed potatoes, flanked by buttery green beans. A slight adjustment to the potatoes inspired curiosity and resulted in creamy luxury.

Similarly the seabass precariously perched on a round of garlicky sautéed spinach and a quinoa risotto, played with the same model, but creativity came with the base. Instead of the classic risotto or even a grain, Amanda’s new vision offered an inventive twist.

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The duck dish, complete with maple-roasted butternut squash, bacon lardons and wilted mustard greens, read like an old dish but instead brought excitement. The maple surfaced the earthy sweetness of the butternut squash, which accented the earthiness of the dark greens. But the salt of the lardoons and the fattiness of the meat made everything sparkle.

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Even dessert brought something uncharacteristic to the table. A banana cake with caramel ice cream felt like bananas fosters on the tongue, classic and simple but recreated. And a butterscotch pudding, layered all the dreams of sweetness into a perfect little package, presented in a jar. The chocolate molten cake is an old standby, unbroken by new imaginings.

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Sometimes the key to consistency is a kind of monotony and paucity of innovation. This flatness was at times present at Amanda’s—not that the food wasn’t good, it was, just predictable and safe. The new turns have created a more exciting experience, while replicating the high standards and quality. 

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10.17.14

DIFFERENT and similar: Bäco Mercat

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Shadows from the candle danced on the menu at Bäco Mercat, while they scratched their heads. The music was almost jarring, and the place was almost too hip, and they were most definitely too hungry.

Choosing dishes for their meal was like choosing blindly. Different categories, different flavors, different influences, all led to a different experience, but in some ways more of the same.

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Squash blossoms were set ablaze by their little candle, warming the table and overhearing all of their conversation. Each organic package was bursting with eggplant, fresh, crunchy and creamy, fried and delicious.

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But the “original” bäco held their attention. Soft and buttery flatbread folded over to conceal stringy beef carnitas and tender pork, alive with salbitxada sauce and textures. Beautiful greens, sparkles of vegetation, and two meats to tide them over until the next bite.  

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Like slippery blistered green okra, warm with tomato and fenugreek. Herbs and heat.

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Or crusty, flaky pastry, crisp around decadent duck, crowned with a glossy pretty fried egg. A heavy mix of luxury and familiarity, with the spice of honey mustard and pebbles of pistachio interwoven.

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Or the silky and sumptuous slow roasted pork shoulder, drowned in tangy sweet pale kumquat tang. Hearty and homey, meaty and fatty, a balance completed by the fruits and the greens.

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But the decadence of the pistachio cheesecake, deep, salty and green, clashed with the warm and cold syrupy sweetness of the rustic baked semolina, even though they were both studded with the meaty gems of pistachios.

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Their dinner felt like an odd mix of heat and invention, tradition twisted to make something new yet familiar.

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8.27.14

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SLOW food: JoJo Restaurant

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JoJo in New York City, was quiet when I first arrived; the first floor was filling slowly, and smiles danced in the flickering of the muted candlelight and the bar tender was moving quickly to fill deep wine glasses. Upstairs, it was just as still, but there was room for a few more parties ready to indulge. The little stylish menu echoes the mix of modern and elegant décor, which is also reflected in the construction of the plates that eventually arrived at our table. After the appetizers the hum grew louder, and the upper dining room filled with warmth. It was a leisurely meal; slow food service, perhaps because of the increase in volume, allowed for girlie chats and full sips of red wine.

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The Peekytoe Crab appetizer was a maze of elements that came together nicely but was up to the diner to assemble. The heavy cumin of the crackers and the fresh crab created a complex system where each brought out the sweetness of the other. The pieces of bright and acidic fruits added another layer of sweetness laced with the tangy fruit notes.

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This appetizer was pretty straightforward but expertly executed. Each Calamari ring and tentacle was crisp, battered and crunchy though the octopus remained tender. The littered pickled chili, slices still with a seed or two, added heat and that earthy green pepper feeling. The sauce was made with yuzu, which created a play of sweet and spicy, like the contrasting textures embedded in the appetizer. 

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Even though this was called sushi, the Crispy Salmon Sushi was nothing like what is typically imagined when hearing the word sushi. There was no seaweed or rolls but it was a refined interpretation, transforming sushi into a different kind of elegant. Sushi grade raw salmon rested on a thin but potent layer of chipotle mayo and a cube of fried rice was the foundation. It was like a savory rice pudding, crisp to counter the texture of the slick salmon. The different temperatures played tug of war, until the spicy may ignited the mouth and united the warm rice and cool salmon. Something about the green sprig that rounded the flavors and produced a clean finish.

 

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The Duck entree presented duck in multiple ways.  Not only were there sizable rounds of duck breasts, but thigh meat was chopped coarsely and stuffed into  thin crunchy brick pastry. A wet pile of sweet and sour shallots rested in the middle of the plate, underneath the delicious duck dumpling. The tangy shallots brought out the meaty luxury of the duck medallions encircled by a little fat, making each bite perfect. Even though the pastry comprised of duck as well, it launched the diner into another category, with denser and gamier flavors and hearty notes. A dichotomy was set up celebrating the duality of duck, highlighting its decadence and richness.

 

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The Lobster dish was also more than it seemed, but simple at the same time. It felt like a refined, deconstructed clambake, including the sweet corn and fingerling potatoes. The spices even recreated that grilled warmth and a little heat that is reminiscent of the summer tradition. The same spices coated the lobster with salty savory elements and emphasized the seafood’s sweetness.

Butterscotch Pudding proved to be a very heavy and layered dessert, with the pudding at its base, topped by a thin canopy of smooth caramel, with a dollop of crème fraiche, and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. The mix of the intensely sweet butterscotch and caramel and the liberal dusting of the salt, transformed the pudding from a childhood favorite to an adult comfort.  Even the monotony of texture was soothing, as each spoonful was different and the salt crystals added unexpected crunch with a burst of refreshing flavor.

 

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A Peach and Black Berry Crumble topped with lemon verbena ice cream, hinted at the peak moments of summer, highlighting the sweet tangy stone fruit and the seedy tart berries. The fruits themselves were not that sweet, just soft in their purest form, but the crumble strudel crunchy embellishments brought that sweet dessert form. Even the ice cream was not terribly sweet, but the custard had floral notes that rounded out the summer season and herbal feelings that ushered the diner into fall.

JoJo felt like a beautiful dining room, hidden behind a secret door in an old home, from the decorated interior to menu. Everything felt comfortable, aged and familiar, but the contemporary twists, the lovely layers of textures and flavors as well as the elevating of classics made the meal and experience truly special. It was definitely worth the wait.

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9.17.13