back to BASICS: ABC Kitchen

RER 10.6.13

Walking into ABC Kitchen was like stumbling into enchanted woods, dusted with white snow and pretty fairy lights. Or wandering into the refined interior of a farmhouse with white details, exposed bulbs and comfortable armchairs. They were washed over with rustic moments, modern elegance, and white. The space created a blurry white afterimage, fuzzy from satiety and fond moments.

They managed to sneak for an early dinner that Sunday, sans reservation but full of hope. Wishes were granted, white seats were taken at a white table, and farm fresh menus were studied. Dizzy with excitement and forgetting the time constraint, they ordered with big eyes.

 

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The housemade ricotta and fig market table starter was a dream, served with slightly charred grilled bread to bring mouths back to reality. The dense ricotta and syrupy fig compote felt like dessert, smooth and creamy, where the dark bread and drizzle of olive oil reintroduced the savory. Even the white of the cheese and the distressed brown of the figs echoed the decor.

 

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However, the crab toast with lemon aioli spoke to a different kind of sweetness. The crab was so fresh that it hardly tasted like crab, but just sweet and juicy meat, doused in a delicate but present acidic charm. The lumps were garlicky and bright as well, absorbed by thick dark toast.

 

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Even the raw diver scallops brought alive the beauty of fresh and organic elements, mimicking some of the tastes in the crab toast; the seafood, the citrus, the pleasure. The tart lemon and spicy chilies danced in the appetizer, and each thin slice of scallop induced new feelings.

 

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The squash blossom pizza was salty and tangy, bready and light. The cheese countered the acidic grape tomatoes, and the whole-wheat crust added balance. But the pretty farm-to-table blossoms were decorative and delicate, last of their season.

 

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Many of the mains featured fish, but the suckling pig entrée tempted with in season tiny white turnips and a sweet and spicy bacon marmalade. The dish was too rich and heavy in comparison. Even though the dark green leaves were left on the root vegetables, the dish lacked that light fresh appeal. Turnips have a heaviness, a starchy creaminess that perpetuated the decadence of the fatty pork. The bacon marmalade’s heat proved useful to cut the fat, but the gummy chunks of bacon were too large and superfluous.

 

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Dessert continued the downhill with the almond cake with poached pears that brought the meal to a standstill. The cake was light and crunchy with little sweet crystals that recall marzipan, but it was dry and the poached pears felt less fresh. The tangy housemade yogurt broke up the odd monotony, but was too savory for the limp dessert. The cinnamon and the pears were inharmonious, an unexpected clash when most of the meal was well orchestrated.

 

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The freshness that ABC Kitchen is known for sang in every dish, resonating in their mouths and minds. The drinks also felt clean like the very last light of summer and the new beginnings of fall. But fall was creeping into the menu, highlighting the newly available ingredients. The squash blossoms were vanishing, and concord grapes replaced by cherries and strawberries. The menu morphs as Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten focuses on the organic here-and-now at ABC Kitchen, only using relevant produce and seasonal gifts.

NOTE: Since this meal, the menu has changed. Some items are the same, while others have different produce elements, like the ricotta market table item, the pizza and the almond cake dessert.

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10.10.13

RER 10.6.13

second YELPing...

RER 9.11.13

There is something extremely comforting about cheese, even when it is presented in a very refined cheese selection, or in a macaroni and cheese that is all grown up. Add wine and dim lights and it makes for an almost perfect setting for a much needed and overdue reunion. The Cellar at Beecher’s Handmade Cheese was the backdrop for the cheesy get together, replete with various cheeses, mac and cheeses, and stories to close gaps. Check out my yelp review for more of the deets.

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9.30.13

RER 9.11.13

SLOW food: JoJo Restaurant

RER 9.16.13

JoJo in New York City, was quiet when I first arrived; the first floor was filling slowly, and smiles danced in the flickering of the muted candlelight and the bar tender was moving quickly to fill deep wine glasses. Upstairs, it was just as still, but there was room for a few more parties ready to indulge. The little stylish menu echoes the mix of modern and elegant décor, which is also reflected in the construction of the plates that eventually arrived at our table. After the appetizers the hum grew louder, and the upper dining room filled with warmth. It was a leisurely meal; slow food service, perhaps because of the increase in volume, allowed for girlie chats and full sips of red wine.

RER 9.16.13

The Peekytoe Crab appetizer was a maze of elements that came together nicely but was up to the diner to assemble. The heavy cumin of the crackers and the fresh crab created a complex system where each brought out the sweetness of the other. The pieces of bright and acidic fruits added another layer of sweetness laced with the tangy fruit notes.

RER 9.16.13

This appetizer was pretty straightforward but expertly executed. Each Calamari ring and tentacle was crisp, battered and crunchy though the octopus remained tender. The littered pickled chili, slices still with a seed or two, added heat and that earthy green pepper feeling. The sauce was made with yuzu, which created a play of sweet and spicy, like the contrasting textures embedded in the appetizer. 

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Even though this was called sushi, the Crispy Salmon Sushi was nothing like what is typically imagined when hearing the word sushi. There was no seaweed or rolls but it was a refined interpretation, transforming sushi into a different kind of elegant. Sushi grade raw salmon rested on a thin but potent layer of chipotle mayo and a cube of fried rice was the foundation. It was like a savory rice pudding, crisp to counter the texture of the slick salmon. The different temperatures played tug of war, until the spicy may ignited the mouth and united the warm rice and cool salmon. Something about the green sprig that rounded the flavors and produced a clean finish.

 

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The Duck entree presented duck in multiple ways.  Not only were there sizable rounds of duck breasts, but thigh meat was chopped coarsely and stuffed into  thin crunchy brick pastry. A wet pile of sweet and sour shallots rested in the middle of the plate, underneath the delicious duck dumpling. The tangy shallots brought out the meaty luxury of the duck medallions encircled by a little fat, making each bite perfect. Even though the pastry comprised of duck as well, it launched the diner into another category, with denser and gamier flavors and hearty notes. A dichotomy was set up celebrating the duality of duck, highlighting its decadence and richness.

 

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The Lobster dish was also more than it seemed, but simple at the same time. It felt like a refined, deconstructed clambake, including the sweet corn and fingerling potatoes. The spices even recreated that grilled warmth and a little heat that is reminiscent of the summer tradition. The same spices coated the lobster with salty savory elements and emphasized the seafood’s sweetness.

Butterscotch Pudding proved to be a very heavy and layered dessert, with the pudding at its base, topped by a thin canopy of smooth caramel, with a dollop of crème fraiche, and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. The mix of the intensely sweet butterscotch and caramel and the liberal dusting of the salt, transformed the pudding from a childhood favorite to an adult comfort.  Even the monotony of texture was soothing, as each spoonful was different and the salt crystals added unexpected crunch with a burst of refreshing flavor.

 

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A Peach and Black Berry Crumble topped with lemon verbena ice cream, hinted at the peak moments of summer, highlighting the sweet tangy stone fruit and the seedy tart berries. The fruits themselves were not that sweet, just soft in their purest form, but the crumble strudel crunchy embellishments brought that sweet dessert form. Even the ice cream was not terribly sweet, but the custard had floral notes that rounded out the summer season and herbal feelings that ushered the diner into fall.

JoJo felt like a beautiful dining room, hidden behind a secret door in an old home, from the decorated interior to menu. Everything felt comfortable, aged and familiar, but the contemporary twists, the lovely layers of textures and flavors as well as the elevating of classics made the meal and experience truly special. It was definitely worth the wait.

RER

9.17.13 

SOUTH of the border: K'u'uk

RER 2.8.13

What a culinary adventure; a restaurant trying out new techniques and combinations, while sticking to traditional roots and local ingredients. The restaurateur who owns K’u’uk, also has two other places in the city of Merida, and is on his way to reinventing the food scene and elevate regional cuisine, with an edge of refinement, modernity and innovation. Their vision is to recreate traditional Yucatan themes, recipes, and flavors in “new arrangements.”

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After being seated, and quietly handed menus, we were given a tall shot class of beet and tart orange juice. It was smooth light, and felt wet and thin, but cool and refreshing. The beautiful dark color of the juice, rich, echoed the color on the walls, just as dark but in a way warmer and redder. The smoothness of the juice was also present in the décor, almost tasteful, with a modest blend of contemporary and regional.

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We were even given an amuse bouche, delicate and artistic, and completely unexpected. It was textured, with a potato thin crisp, dotted with corn and local flavored creams, paying homage to the area, while bringing something new to the aesthetic. The flavors were dull, but the textures, the conflict of the thin crunch and the smooth and creamy was rather exciting.

RER 2.8.13

With guidance, we ordered three appetizers, a healthy blend of traditional and innovative. We experienced shrimp floating in a green colored bean soup, tickled with cilantro and cheese served with tiny rustic crunchy corn disks. The flavor was very mealy and heavy, typical of bean purees, but the sweetness of the shrimp played a rather sharp contrast. We also had a play on salad, with crisp dehydrated lettuce, warm baby potatoes, smooth avocado, acidic heirloom tomatoes, and creamy Ramonetti cheese. The dish was a jungle gym of bite size elements, varying in delicious texture and taste, combining to make something completely out of the ordinary with such plain, straightforward ingredients. The last appetizer was centered around baked pumpkin, and included the intrigue of plain tart yogurt, tangy goat cheese, dust-like almonds and orange orbs of sweet potato golden puree. This was disjointed and less refined in execution and flavor profile. Every element was decent on its own (the sweet sweet potato goodness, outstanding), but it was super difficult to put together and build a cohesive bite.

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The appetizers were mildly disjointed, but not dysfunctional; there was always some almost obvious way to combine all of the different elements, to make a bite that was truly inspiring and delicious.

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Next for entrees, we had meat, not a ton, but well prepared and satisfying in its excellence. The two steak entrees, one a rib eye and the other like fillet mignon, were served with just enough starch, to soak up the juices and the decadence of the beef. The rib eye came with a spattering of tomato gravy, which was hardly discernable, yet at the same time, would have been greatly missed, and a little bed of mashed cassava, just enough to satiate. The other steak came with ample seasoned till orange, spicy and crisp, almost too much and on the verge of overwhelming the fine tender cut of meat. The potatoes, however, ended up being addictive and stealing the limelight.

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The last meat entrée was described as hog jowl, annotated for my understanding as, really fatty pork. The pork was tender and salty, fatty but not uncomfortably so. It was luxurious, almost like a delicacy in the mouth, small slices enforced slow enjoyment. This entrée, however, did not come with enough accoutrements to cut the fat and vary the flavor. It came with some split cherry tomatoes, and thin lines of what felt like mashed potatoes, starchy and tangy. The two looked more like decoration than flavor and dish enhancement, though the acidity was welcome, breaking down the fattiness of the pork to something more relatable. 

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The downfall of the entrees I experienced was proportions, too much of some and too little of others, and emphasis was not always placed on the right element. Everything tasted and looked beautiful, there was no shortage of flavor and authenticity, just certain moments were over played.

The desserts, though, dallied in the realm of whimsical and playful, employing scientific techniques as well as familiar ingredients to create something completely imaginative and different.

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One of the desserts we tried involved a dark soil of burnt milk, lengthy cubes of rice pudding, a dollop of radish ice cream, with a single thin shave of candied radish. This was absolutely delicious, an image of a foreign planet, occupied and being discovered. It was also dully sweet in way, making each component blend in flavor but remain distinguished in texture; the fine crumble of the burnt milk, and the beads of rice in the rectangles of stiff pudding, the crunch of the little radish and micro green accents, and the blending smoothness of the ice cream, all played with the expectations of your mouth and mind.

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The other dessert though, was quite the opposite, relying on the savory sweet aspects of beets and yogurt, frozen and freeze dried with science and mystery. There were also intense moments of sweet bitterness of dark chocolate that crunched with coldness. This, though imaginative, did not tickle my sweet tooth, that wanted to be stroked with an after dinner dessert. It played into the dichotomy of many natural ingredients that we consume.

The whole experience was decadent and luxurious, from the décor and setting to the food and the flavors, ingredients and service. The chef and the vision of the restaurant emitted an invitation to play with your food, pick and combine to design your own kind of indulgence. Yet, each piece is placed methodically and chosen specifically for your plate, well curated but issuing freedoms at the same time. The creativity was really present in the appetizer and dessert courses, whereas the mains were traditional and almost standards. Both the appetizers and desserts were like building blocks, each element a step toward your own unique dining experience, no bite ever the same, making your meal completely different than your neighbor’s. It was fun and flavorful, different and evolving.

RER

3.3.13

RER 2.8.13

falling for AUTUMN: Park Avenue Autumn

RER 10.5.12

TA 10.5.12

Just as the seasons change, so does the restaurant Park Avenue. New seasons bring new and different décor, as well as menus and featured drinks. This restaurant is a work of art, all the way from the transitive interior decoration to the intense thought and innovation behind the creation of a novel menu once the new season hits. It is a way of creating a unique atmosphere and dining experience that would change with the shortening or lengthening of the days, or the rising or falling of temperatures. The concept is intriguing as well as labor intensive, but in the end feels worth it, as the dining is exquisite and the ambiance feels like home.

The Park Avenue Autumn décor is dark and cozy, kind of like what a warm fall night would feel like, intimate and refined. The low lights make the body long for comfort and the spices of fall, that are eventually doled out through the intricate and complex meals. Large orbs of copper seem to stroll along the interior, reflecting the light and faces of the patrons, but also echoing the kind of sunshine that glows through the changing leaves, and daily patterns. Autumn plants like pussy willows and flowers bring the outdoors to the table without being overwhelming and tacky.

The fall season is home to spices and comfort. Imagine apple and pumpkin picking, hot apple cider spiced with fragrant cinnamon, and comfort foods that warm the insides first and make smiles glow. Somehow, Park Avenue Autumn is able to artfully encapsulate so many of the connotations and thoughts that dance with the season, not only through the décor but also the ingredients and techniques present on the menu.The ingredients in each of the menu items spoke to autumn and the season of comfort food, where pumpkin and sweet potato, earthy truffle or butternut squash reign. Even the drinks were laden with apple cider bases and pear accents. When it was not the ingredients, it was the pairings that are reminiscent of the great comfort foods of the fall.

The amuse bouche skillfully set up the season for the tongue, combining all the expectations of fall; tart crisp apples, drizzled with caramel, and dusted with rosemary and sage bread crumbs. The traditional pairing of caramel with apple adapted to a quick and festive, summary of the season. The sweetness of the caramel, brought alive the tartness of the apple, while the savory rosemary and sage crumbs, rounded out the fall feeling in the mouth. The bite represented the tantamount flavors of the season; spice, sweet and tart.

Even the bread basket, accompanied by a card with the description of each element, lived up to the flavors of fall. The first bread was a sweet pumpkin bread, topped with mildly caramelized sunflower seeds, with a hit of spice. It was soft and sweet on the inside, like a warm pumpkin muffin we all cannot wait for once the season turns. Moist and fragrant with the earthy flavors of the sunflower seeds at the top, adding crunch to the soft dessert like bread. The small loaf shaped bread boasted the fall seasonings that bring to mind pie fillings; cinnamon, clove, all spice. The next was an onion roll, that looked almost like a cinnamon roll, turning in on itself. This bread guised itself as a sweet, but in actuality the onion compote was a gentle mixture of sweet and savory, rolled into a dense dough, heavy enough to compete with the strong taste. The last was a flat bread, crunchy with quinoa and lentils. These thin bread stick like edibles completely contrasted the soft and airy appeal of the other two. Its spiciness reintroduced a kin of vigor that is also present in the seasonings and combinations that appear in autumn as well, like the spiciness of a zesty pumpkin soup, or the conglomeration of flavors that accentuate pumpkin and other winter squashes.

The sweet potato gnocchi with a browned butter sauce also encompassed the season of fall, lending to the combination of elements and ingredients. The almost crunchy sweet potato gnocchi were modestly drenched with a sweet citrusy browned butter sauce, studded with tart and tangy cranberries, as well as rich and dense chestnuts. The different textures of the ingredients evoked the variety of colors of falling leaves in autumn. The tang of the cranberries was welcome, as the sweet potato and chestnuts in the syrupy browned butter became heavy and rich. Each pillow of gnocchi had an almost sear on its exterior, creating a crisp crunch and contrast to the soft, smooth interior. Each chestnut felt new and disguised, the mealy consistency different and unexpected each time. Though the sauce was sweet, it was marinated with a light citrus, that along with the cranberries, brought a brightness do the dish, like the sun on a crisp autumn morning.

Sophisticated comfort food, like the quail and waffles or the free range chicken with pumpkin pie, echoed the thick cut bacon with quinoa and maple glaze. The bacon appetizer, was not a comfort teaser; think decadent rashers of bacon sat heavy atop a bed of browned quinoa, smothered in the fat and juices of the meat. The grill marks on the bacon added a level of aesthetics but also a flavor complexity that completely juxtaposed the sweetness applied with the maple glaze. Each bite was chewy and embraced maple notes, which paired well with the pork, but also the season. The quinoa, rustic and underplayed, was just a base, that absorbed every flavor that touched it; sweet, seared, and salty.

The entree featuring Halibut with black truffles also felt close to home with elegant comfort food. Though it was fish, which sometimes gets the reputation of being light, this dish combined the density of the truffles with a brioche encrusted poached egg. The earthy richness of the truffle aroma and taste, lingered like fall comfort foods, like soup and hot apple cider stick to the ribs. The dark truffles evoked an image of damp leaves on a forest floor and tree trunks covered with moss. Truffles also added a layer of decadence and heaviness that only come when the weather gets cooler, and banished when it is hot out. The intensity of the truffle was extremely well managed and controlled, like the severity of truffle should be, adding just a glimmer of luxury of it rather than weighing the meal down into the depths of overuse. Even the meaty halibut, was heavy enough to combat the potential of overpowering truffle, but also carry the dish into autumnal comfort. The breaded poached egg added another element of refinement, bringing something typical and mildly familiar into a dish in an extraordinary way. The warm creaminess of the yolk of the egg, married perfectly with the black truffle as well as the halibut, enhancing the heaviness. While the crunchy whites of the egg cut the heaviness, though was just as creamy and smooth. The brioche exterior was oddly the only crunch present in the dish, other than the slight sear on the fish. Though contrast in textures are welcomed, the kind of uniformity of the dish, made the solid food feel more like eating a warm stew, where all the elements blend in a cozy way. This kind of distortion really illustrated the mastery of the indigents, as well as some of the key connotations that align with this season.

On top of it all the desserts too were smothered in fall flavors and ingredients, like figs, pears, pumpkin. Each based on a simple element, like cake, tart, or creme brûlée, but elevating and maximizing the autumnal flavors. Even the ice cream and sorbets had fall tilts.

The whole atmosphere transports the patron to the fall season, even if it is a warming night outside. Not only is it the decor; the lighting, spatial arrangements and all the small details, but it is also the ingredients that pervade the fall season. The masterful combinations of high and low, familiar and refined, created a great autumn experience, through all of the senses...

** I apologize for the dearth of photos. Deffo check out the site for Park Avenue Autumn to see more!

RER

10.5.12

RER 10.6.12