passport to PARIS: Pirouette

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There was something almost chronological about the three-course meal at Pirouette. Each dish grew on the one presented before and served as a foundation for the dish following it. Even the colors swelled and fell as the meal progressed, introducing a wave of feelings and connotations.

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The cold corn soup was sweet and summery, silky and creamy with floating basil oil and succulent chunks of lobster. Pretty bright green nasturtium leaves enlivened the golden yellow soup, bringing summer to life with the most vivid of hues. Every element was soft and stringy, smooth and luxurious, but light enough for warm weather.

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A sculpture of freshness interwoven with snappy pea shoots, crunchy gomasio wings and crisp fried onions grew from a base of a fat dull red-orange tomato. Tiny wild strawberries dotted the vertical salad, bringing sweetness to the mix, while the creamy mascarpone cooled and heightened refreshment. The combination was inimitable, a chorus of closely monitored textures and bold flavors that melded into one.

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Although, embellished with greenery continuing in the season vein, the veal main sang a heartier note, laden with chickpea panisse and earthy swiss chard. The meat remained tender and juicy, but it submitted to the grainy fried panisse, which crumbled and mystified. Bitter tart lemon confit brightened and balanced, bringing the dish full circle.

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Even heavier and darker, the Neapolitan of duck and foie gras, succumbed to decadence. The fatty duck, chewy and meaty, countered the buttery and velvety foie gras, creating a tug of war on the palate with seemingly compatible playmates. Black garlic richened the sumptuousness of the dish, while the dark cherries added a necessary sweet tanginess and acidity for balance.

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Dessert had recognizable moments, but further twists crafted something different. The rice pudding was reminiscent of home, creamy, sweet and soft, while the ribbons of salted caramel and the imperceptible caramelized hazelnuts added dimension. White peach pieces and dark blackberries danced under a boule of spicy rich clove ice cream, while sweet meringue and fragrant speculoos gave crunch to the varied dessert.

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Less warm and more hip, Pirouette brings together seasonal, high-end and quality ingredients  to create a building harmonious meal which is hearty and satisfying.

RER

7.28.15

RER 7.28.15