photo OP: PARIS

Of course we ate (a lot) in Paris, but we saw the sights, too. 

We saw the Louvre by day and night. At night the lights of the juxtaposing glass pyramids and the grandiose historic palace bounced off of the still pools of water. It was lovely and still at night; the lights and laughter the only dynamics. By day, it bustled and moved with bodies, but we came to see the art.

After a delightful dinner, we walked to Arc de Triomphe and visited the tomb of the unknown soldier as the sun was setting in the city, striping the sky with cotton candy colors. It was a peaceful pause.

We waited longer than I care to admit for entrance to the Catacombs of Paris. Though the line was hot and grueling, longer and more arduous than anyone could have guessed, seeing the collection of bones was totally worth it. The cool air struck us as we entered the realm of the dead. We imagined the lives of these bones, stacked and sorted. It was haunting and beautiful.

At Musee D'Orsay we had to rush through the art, but our minds were tired. We were able to catch glimpses of Impressionist masterpieces and the works of artists outside of our passions. We discussed color and brushstroke while trying the fight the throngs of people.

The Rodin Museum was supposed to be a quiet refuge, a place to meditate in gardens and consider how heavy sculpture can embody movement and emotion. Instead, it was oppressively hot and more crowded than I would have liked. Seeing Rodin's evolution throughout his home was inspiring and riveting despite the hazy conditions.

Sacre Coeur is absolutely stunning, inside and out, above and below. Though I have seen the basilica on multiple occasions, I had never been inside. This time I was able to and so glad that I did. It is striking on the exterior-- tall, white, contrasting the blue sky boldly. Inside is magical, almost like time travel. The sheer size of the church is astonishing, but the feeling of veneration was more palpable. And then, on a whim, we went on the dome, where the climb (and sweat) was definitely worth the views.

The Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Pres, and other sights, too.

Follow on instagram for the bites and sights!

RER

7.2019

memorable MEALS: French Feasts

Paris is a beautiful city-- the architecture, the art, the river, the gardens-- I could go on. And unsurprisingly, Paris is a delicious city as well. I have enjoyed feasting in Paris before (here, here, and here), but this time was far less planned and with my hubs. 

Le Catrina

We got into Paris later than we hoped, checked in at our hotel, Okko (very charming hotel, but location is not ideal), and needed something to eat fast. With the help of google maps we found this place and were very satisfied for our first meal in the city. There was some confusion with translations, but the staff was friendly and understanding. In the end the food was tasty and a strong start to our adventure. 


Le Bistrot des Campagnes

Again, we found ourselves very hungry at a precarious time when many restaurants were soon closing between lunch and dinner service. We were running out of time, but google maps saved the day again, leading us to this charming spot with a generous prix fixe and excellent food. We each got the three-course choice, which allowed us to try different items on the French menu. The atmosphere was cordial, warming to amicable, but service was slowing down because we made it just before closing after lunch. Definitely would pay Bistrot des Campagnes another visit. So tasty.


Le Petit Cadet

Though not a show-stopping meal, the creme brûlée was probably the best we have had, with just enough caramelization of the sugar to produce a great crunch without bitter burnt notes. This spot was relatively close to the hotel and lively, for sure. 


L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre

This was another adventure. My friend recommended L'Avant Comptoir, but information online about the restaurant and its other outcroppings was unclear. So we ended up at one of the offshoots, a standing wine bar with tapas-style snacks. The bite-sized food was well-crafted and beautiful, but the menu hanging from the ceiling made for tough decision-making (the images help though). We had a fresh salad topped with salmon, beef carpaccio, some cute sausages, a foie gras macaron with lemon, and to end it all, tapioca pudding with fresh and freeze dried berries. We could have spent a whole afternoon there grazing and drinking. It was definitely a worthwhile experience. 

L'Ami Jean

This was probably one of my favorite meals of all time. We reached the restaurant just a few minutes after opening on a Saturday night. We were told, rather brusquely, that we would only have the table for two hours, which we thought would be enough time, but the staff seemed anxious about the time slot. The menu was solely in French and a friendly waiter or two translated it for us while giving us the details on the specials. We decided to go with the chef six-course tasting, which eliminated all effort and decision-making for us. This was a magnificent choice. We started with a parmesan soup, which was gritty in texture, but salty and layered in taste. Next we had a lovely, spiced ragout topped with a soft boiled egg. Here the temperatures were battling, which made for exciting bites. For our next course, we indulged in quail breast with crunchy pork rinds with spring peas on top of a thin layer of spreadable cheese. This was followed by fish filet that was sumptuous and tender, with a surprising vinegar soaked strawberry and butter-soft onions and eggplant. Last was sweetbread with root vegetables and popping barley. This was rich, decadent, and mature. We were given a tiny glass with layers of red fruit in various forms and crisp meringue. But the dessert of all time was their famous rice pudding, unlike any rice pudding I have ever had. It brought me to tears-- flavor, texture, everything. Highly recommend L'Ami Jean if you are looking for a culinary adventure.

RER

7.2019