memorable MEALS: French Feasts

Paris is a beautiful city-- the architecture, the art, the river, the gardens-- I could go on. And unsurprisingly, Paris is a delicious city as well. I have enjoyed feasting in Paris before (here, here, and here), but this time was far less planned and with my hubs. 

Le Catrina

We got into Paris later than we hoped, checked in at our hotel, Okko (very charming hotel, but location is not ideal), and needed something to eat fast. With the help of google maps we found this place and were very satisfied for our first meal in the city. There was some confusion with translations, but the staff was friendly and understanding. In the end the food was tasty and a strong start to our adventure. 


Le Bistrot des Campagnes

Again, we found ourselves very hungry at a precarious time when many restaurants were soon closing between lunch and dinner service. We were running out of time, but google maps saved the day again, leading us to this charming spot with a generous prix fixe and excellent food. We each got the three-course choice, which allowed us to try different items on the French menu. The atmosphere was cordial, warming to amicable, but service was slowing down because we made it just before closing after lunch. Definitely would pay Bistrot des Campagnes another visit. So tasty.


Le Petit Cadet

Though not a show-stopping meal, the creme brûlée was probably the best we have had, with just enough caramelization of the sugar to produce a great crunch without bitter burnt notes. This spot was relatively close to the hotel and lively, for sure. 


L'Avant Comptoir de la Terre

This was another adventure. My friend recommended L'Avant Comptoir, but information online about the restaurant and its other outcroppings was unclear. So we ended up at one of the offshoots, a standing wine bar with tapas-style snacks. The bite-sized food was well-crafted and beautiful, but the menu hanging from the ceiling made for tough decision-making (the images help though). We had a fresh salad topped with salmon, beef carpaccio, some cute sausages, a foie gras macaron with lemon, and to end it all, tapioca pudding with fresh and freeze dried berries. We could have spent a whole afternoon there grazing and drinking. It was definitely a worthwhile experience. 

L'Ami Jean

This was probably one of my favorite meals of all time. We reached the restaurant just a few minutes after opening on a Saturday night. We were told, rather brusquely, that we would only have the table for two hours, which we thought would be enough time, but the staff seemed anxious about the time slot. The menu was solely in French and a friendly waiter or two translated it for us while giving us the details on the specials. We decided to go with the chef six-course tasting, which eliminated all effort and decision-making for us. This was a magnificent choice. We started with a parmesan soup, which was gritty in texture, but salty and layered in taste. Next we had a lovely, spiced ragout topped with a soft boiled egg. Here the temperatures were battling, which made for exciting bites. For our next course, we indulged in quail breast with crunchy pork rinds with spring peas on top of a thin layer of spreadable cheese. This was followed by fish filet that was sumptuous and tender, with a surprising vinegar soaked strawberry and butter-soft onions and eggplant. Last was sweetbread with root vegetables and popping barley. This was rich, decadent, and mature. We were given a tiny glass with layers of red fruit in various forms and crisp meringue. But the dessert of all time was their famous rice pudding, unlike any rice pudding I have ever had. It brought me to tears-- flavor, texture, everything. Highly recommend L'Ami Jean if you are looking for a culinary adventure.

RER

7.2019

memorable MEALS: Restaurant Vestibül

After running around Vienna, soaking in all the sites we could see via Vienna Pass and a trusty hop-on hop-off bus tour, we worked up an appetite and were looking for a restaurant that would slow us down after a busy day. 

Restaurant Vestibül did just the trick-- we took our time, and we were given time. We both ordered fixed menus-- I did the standard six-course menu, while my husband did the four-course chef menu that changes daily.  Here is what we ate.

amuse bouche

Course 1 (him): Ceviche of Char with avocado and pomegranate

Course 1 (her): Artichoke Salad with Stracchino and salt lemon

Course 2 (her): Filet of Brook Trout with roasted salad hearts, peas, and galangal

Course 3 (her): Viennese Escargots on tomato tartar

Course 2 (him): Salmon Trout Croquettes with lobster ragout and zucchini

Course 4 (her): Lobster with creamy Cabbage
a signature dish

Course 3 (him): Tafelspitz of Veal with black risotto, and fermented Chinese cabbage

Course 5 (her): BBQ Roast of Angus Beef with fermented chicory and potato rosemary gratin

Course 4 (him): Tiramisu with coffee ice cream

Course 6 (her): Hazelnut and Apricot

Our meals comprised of fresh ingredients that made several appearances throughout our meal, along with staple dishes of the restaurant and seasonal variations. There was play with texture and temperature, surprising combinations and rich layers.

Our Instagram has more updates. Check it out!

RER

6.29.19

that WAS summer: North End Grill

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It’s another season now. But it was fun while it lasted— while the strawberries were red and ripe, sweet and juicy; the tomatoes plump with little give; and the green zucchinis were bright, mellow, and plentiful. That was summer.

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It’s fall now, but I can still taste the late summer at North End Grill.

I can feel the gritty bread in between my teeth and the sandy chunks of sea salt sprinkled by my own hand in the sweet and creamy butter.

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I can feel the effervescent bubbles tingle and pop on my tongue as I sipped sparkling wine, and the slinky flesh of oysters glide with obvious luxury passed my lips.

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I can smell the hot fresh garlic painted on thin crust studded with plump little clams, gems of succulent meat not nearly attached to the crisp foundation, and the fresh aroma of decadent butter and fresh herbs, green moments.

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I can taste the acidity and oil emulsified with summer tomatoes, smeared on just thick enough bread, toasted till cratered and crunchy. Savory small smoky anchovies languish on the textured toast and tomato, and peppered fragrant rosemary.

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I can taste the fatty rounds of trotter torchon, speckled pink and white, marbled and  indulgent, crowned with dressed greens and a string of aioli.

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I can smell the ribbons of bright zucchini draped in fat flakes of pecorino cheese, earthy, salty, dry, rounded off with studs of anchovies, pretty summer on a plate, herbs and all.

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I can hear the unmistakable crunch of French fries made crisp in duck fat, creating a solid layer of refined crust and a slender soft interior.

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I can see the vivid red strawberries, arranged like an origami flower, layered on top of a sweet cookie shell, with a smooth dollop of strawberry cream, and fresh rounds of savory basil gel.

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I can see the cityscape from the high-above roof garden, a vista of Battery Park, and lines of trimmed and plucked produce, already in use at North End Grill below.

I miss summer, but I can fall for fall, too.

RER

10.8.16