SOFT shell Memories: Oyster bar&restaurant

RER 9.17.12

RER 9.17.12

Who would have ever thought that a restaurant in the dining concourse of Grand Central Station could feel so removed and so distant from the transportation hub? It was to the point where exiting the restaurant was jarring, and time and space were forgotten. Dark, windowless, vacuum, and oysters. Oyster Bar and Restaurant is one of the best in the city, according to a wide range of sources, from foreign to local.

The vaulted ceilings were constructed of a basket weave tiling method, lined with little bulbs of light, dotting each curve and line. The ceiling felt heavy and low, dark but also inviting. There was a kind of warmth and familiarity, like you had been there before, maybe it was the friendliness of the staff, or the picnic like table clothes, or just the lighting. The space was not cramped, and the pressure from the profound ceiling, just lured you in, keeping you there for leisure and seafood.

The space felt like it had a history, from the open area of tables, to the lunch counters, all the way to the more luxurious and cozy bar area. It felt like people had come in and out of that place, and enjoyed the breather and momentary stop from the hustle and bustle of the fast paced city. Because time really stood still there, not like stale air, but round and forgiving.

The menu is printed new each day. This is made obvious by the fact that the date was featured in the corner, along with filled in market prices of fish and lobster. The menu was endless, making decisions brutal. And the freshness made everything enticing. It ranged from soups and salads, to raw bar options, scallops, half a dozen different fishes in different styles, lobster, and delicious desserts. There was so much to look at and so much I wanted to try. If I could have, I would have ordered three entrees, it was so difficult.

But alas, decisions had to be made.

The New England style clam chowder was just really clam chowder, it had all the elements; the thick creamy broth, the chunks of potato and the little clams, but it was missing some of the soul experienced in New England proper. Maybe it was just missing the water view and the New England accent. The ratios of this clam chowder were not necessarily my favorite, unless the clams were hiding in the bowl, it seemed like there was not enough clam and more than enough of everything else. Clam chowder is not always the most flavorful, but it is extremely rich and filling. Oysterbar got that right on the mark.

Soft shell crabs are so hard to find. Accustomed to getting them only once in a while when traveling through or to Baltimore, but when I saw them on the daily menu, I jumped. These little soft shelled creatures are some of my favorite crustaceans, a special treat that reminds me of childhood and family, like lunches with my sister and my grandma and aunt, and visits to the various local seafood hangouts in Baltimore. There was some feigned deliberation, but my heart was set. I love soft shell crabs and every memory they bring to me, so there was no way out of it. These soft shell crabs were tiny, smaller than I had ever seen in Baltimore, but there were four on the plate. I am used to just getting two larger ones, either on a roll as a sandwich or two solo, outshining the side veggies. These were salty, crispy, crunchy, and delicious. The seasoning at the Oysterbar was a little stronger than just the salt and pepper purity I was used to. But in the end they tasted familiar, like smiles. The meet underneath the edible shell was sweet and delicate, with a little pungency that the insides some times exuded. Exactly how I wanted them and almost how I always remember them. I could have eaten another order they were so delicious

I could have done without the little side vegetables that they serve with all the meals, but it did add color to the plate. They just tasted like veggies and a little bit of butter, wanting salt and love. But they were not the point. My soft shell crabs were the stars of the show.

As a little treat from the raw bar, I ordered three cherrystone clams. They were the big ones. This may have been the first time I had this variety, so I was curious about their size and flavor. They were so pretty to look at, their meats were peaches and pinks in color. The taste was also delicious, and the chew just what I would look for in raw clams. Salty, chewy, and meaty.

The two pound lobster, tasted fresh and delicious, we saw it alive and then we ate it. Before ordering we asked about the various lobster weights and sizes, and considered the options, and how much each of us would eat. In the end two pounds and a lot of work was just right. But with lobster comes too much work, which for me is less than its worth. Lobster meat is delicious and decadent, don’t get me wrong. It is rich and heavy, with a taste that can stand up to many other ingredients, but the effort needed to eat a lobster, builds the appetite larger than the meat can even satiate.

And of course, dessert. The desserts, out of all the items on the menu, were the most inventive and unpredictable to me. Yes, there was key lime and lemon meringue pies, delicious desserts to follow delicious seafood. There was also the typical bread pudding and some rendition of chocolate cake. But then, there was a fig and apple pudding dealie, with a fruit reduction and half of a fresh fig to top it. It was delicious. The apples remained tart and crisp, defiant. While the figs were soft and rich, their little tiny seeds bursting in the mouth throughout the little pudding. This dessert was completely different than what I was expecting when reading the description, and it was not exactly what I wanted, until I finished it and realized it was the perfect ending to my seafood meal.

Prices of seafood in restaurants can be quite inflated, but in some places, the freshness is a privilege that costs. Most of the fish and seafood options were no less than expected in a restaurant in the heart of New York City, so there was little surprise.

The only thing incredible about the food, was the complete and utter freshness. The dishes were not inventive or esoteric, it was just seafood at its purest and finest. The various preparations were about the ingredients, but not really about what the ingredients could become, simple and straightforward. The atmosphere was also the topping on the cake. A giant restaurant, under ground, in the middle of one of New York Cities busiest arteries, that felt so utterly homey isolated, and old timey at the same time. 

RER

9.17.12

RER 9.17.12

 

local LOVE diner : Liberty Elm

-->

RER 8.25.12

JAR 8.25.12

Guy Fieri, the host of Diners Drive-Ins and Drives, went, so of course I had to.

After being lost in an area of Providence I was hardly aware of, even after living there for four years of college, we finally found it, the Liberty Elm Diner. Apparently it is legendary for its breakfast fare and uniqueness. We were expecting a wait, cause of its size and fame. But I think we missed the Saturday morning breakfast rush, because we were seated instantly, starving and excited.

Basically, the diner is like a trailer with a room in back, on a lot. Small, quirky, friendly and fun. The décor is very striking, as it is a mixture of past and present as well as out of the ordinary and extraordinary. It is a creative mish mosh and pish posh. There are found objects and loud colors, painted tables and chairs, and art of children hanging on the wall. The trailer part at the front is fitted with just a few booths and a lunch counter with stools and everything. The whole place smelled of breakfast and bacon, even though the menu has quite a few vegetarian dishes. 

We were directed to a tiny booth and looked at the paper menus while waiting. It seemed like so many options jammed onto a small piece of paper. The one side of the piece of paper had lunch and breakfast items, sides, juices and extras. It looked like a mouthful. I was stuck on breakfast. But lunch items also had a lot to offer.

I ordered a glass of fresh orange juice which was particularly amazing. It was fresh squeezed, hearty and almost chewable. This made me really excited for what was going to come next. The purity, taste and fragrance, secured the freshness of the ingredients.

We started out with Johnny Cakes, which we ordered before our whole party arrived, because the menu gives fair warning that 12 minutes must be allowed for an order. I was excited because I had no clue what Johnny Cakes were, and also Mr. Fieri tried them on his adventure to the Liberty Elm. To my surprise 12 minutes later when our Johnny Cakes came hot to the table, they were not sweet at all, but grainy, shaped and fried up grit cakes. They were crunchy and browned on the outside but kind of like wet cement, lumpy and chewy. Kind of sandy, and woody. Kind of like when you let your cream of wheat get cold and lumpy in the bowl—its that feeling. They were not sweet, but not really savory. The maple syrup and the butter really helped to make these unique cakes more edible. I can say that I have experienced Johnny Cakes, but I am not sure I really need to experience them again.

I ordered the Monte Cristo Sandwich and added a fried egg on that bad boy. Basically, this was a heavy-duty breakfast sandwich, made on french toast with swiss cheese and ham, accompanied by syrup. I can not say I was fully impressed with the sandwich, but the idea was so tempting. How could you go wrong with basically a ham grilled cheese sandwich on french toast with an extra dose of fried egg protein? Unfortunately, I found out. The french toast was kind of dry. I am not a fan of really eggy french toast, but these thick slices could have soaked a bit more in the egg mixture, allowing the bread to soften into something sweet and almost custardy. The large french toast outside also was coated with too much cinnamon. The cinnamon without any sugar or anything produced a powdery texture, and added no sweetness to what I thought was going to be a sweet element. There was plenty of swiss cheese to add moisture, which was lacking in the dry and powdery french toast. It was extra melty and soft, and held the sandwich together the best it could. The sharpness of the swiss would have contrasted and created something more delicious had the french toast been sweeter. However the combination of the syrup and the swiss cheese was delicious and different. When I first ordered the Monte Cristo, I almost wished the ham was bacon. The ham added saltiness and more savory elements, and the fried egg was hard cooked and I almost wished it was runnier for moisture. The ham was chewy and stuck to the cheese, but almost too close to the texture of the cheese. And by the time I finished the Monte Cristo, and was looking back on it, I wished the ham was bacon again. I think that the crunch of well cooked bacon would be welcomed, along with the higher salt content.

We also ordered a Liberty Burger, but added cheese and bacon (because bacon makes everything better, even our waitress agreed). The ciabiatta roll definitely overwhelmed the burger, as did the lettuce and tomato, but each ingredient was really fresh and present. The actual meat of the burger was delicious. The quality and the locality of the meat sourced was tasteable. It was so fresh and so delicious, with many flavors that are not always apparent when getting the run of the mill burger. Our waitress explained Liberty’s use of really fresh and local meat, and told us that the farm was really close (though most everything in Rhode Island is close). Despite the deliciousness of all the elements, we longed for a larger burger.

The staff was so super friendly and open, with the customers as well as their colleagues. It felt like a place of sharing, where everyone worked hard together, and were very comfortable. The waitresses were expressive and interacted a lot with their customers, getting to know them and their back stories, which made the Liberty Elm feel like home. We even got advice on what to do in the city that day. The food was kind of classic but not quite the experience I was longing for. Liberty Elm is a great neighborhood spot, local and friendly, and its service and ingredients stand out from the crowd. Simple ideas, and simple dishes, but all featuring fresh ingredients and friendliness. 

RER

8.25.12

JAR 8.25.12

 

EATING aesthetics: New Rivers

RER 8.25.12

JAR 8.25.12

Providence is a changing city. It is becoming more of a destination to those other than out of town parents. And as it is moving ahead in culinary, it is home to a large variety of restaurants and an area privy to fresh, local ingredients. At the foot of College Hill, in view of an old white church, a tiny tea café and the water, sits New Rivers. The vacant parking lot stretches like an asphalt desert in the sun, and gives way to the inconspicuous upscale restaurant, small and hidden on a side street in brick building. The sidewalk just wide enough for single file, felt dangerous and open. And there it is, right where you don't expect it.

****

The small restaurant consists of two dining areas, both with just a few tables, resulting in an intimate atmosphere. Almost hushed and quiet, people too afraid to talk too loudly, stimulating awe and anxiety.

It is cozy and dark in one of the spaces, with heavy green walls, deep and dark. The white tablecloths and somewhat more delicate furniture and cottage-like booths, create a stark contrast. The material covering the booths is a strange large floral, reminiscent of a Vermont cottage or a summer home in the Poconos; large pink white flowers set on greens, like needlepoint. The rustic element clashes with the refined table clothes, fancy folded napkins, and lovely solitary flower centerpieces.

One side of the room is one large window, facing onto the narrow sidewalk, allowing for diners to look out, but hardly revealing the inside of the dark space. The green wall separates this dinning area from the main one. The ceiling is red, and chases down the back wall meeting more green; the color reminiscent of a red barn, old and tired, goes well with the benches, coming from almost another time. While another wall is just a green shutter divider, separating diner from preparer. Noises float through the divider at times, reminding those right next to the line, that something does exist beyond that wall, something contemporary and current. But those closer to the window, on the other side of the room,  remain oblivious to that other world, as the music and food of their present  drown it out.

The other dining area rests beyond the second glass door of the glass vestibule, the quiet entry to the restaurant. Large windows stretch almost from the floor to the ceiling. There are lighter colored floors and walls, not the deep green and ancient red. Almost like it is a different place from the other dining area, completely opposite; it is flooded with light. The bar is set on the wall connecting the two dining areas, elaborate and large, but almost forgettable.

Right below the ceiling is a decorative element-- wandering brown vines, like wicker basket twigs, entwined with Christmas tree lights, creating a kind of vortex of stars hovering above the dining area.  This imaginative and creative star wormhole, strays from the decorative motif of this seating area, but gives a kind of hominess and artisanal relief to the yellow walls and minimalist details. Almost like the wildly random designs on the booths in the other area.

It strikes as quite a surprise that the two dining areas would be so utterly different, completely diverse feels and attention to details. The brighter area, in ways is more subtle and refined, lacing in some of the strange kitsch, though starker and stiffer at the same time, than its dark green counterpart. The two rooms create two completely different experiences, with only food and perhaps service to unify.  Every table is set to a tee, perfectly spaced, shiny and consistent, even in the dissimilar rooms. Each setting and table looks exactly the same, creating the uniform for New Rivers. Its perfection reminiscent of the quality, crisp and precise.

But, it gives reason to wonder if the food would even taste or feel different in the separate rooms, incite different feelings and arouse different connotations. The varying layouts create distinctive visual experiences, so why couldn’t they affect the taste of food on the tongue. Eating a sandwich on a bench in a park results in a different experience than eating that very same sandwich in the café, it might even taste different. Perhaps this is the same as at New Rivers. Is this then advantageous to the owner, the chef, or even the diners? Something sought after with dining is consistency, in preparation, ingredients, flavor etc. This may not be able to be achieved because of the complete differences of the dining areas and the experiences they might produce.

****

Just like the light throughout the restaurant, the menu seems to always be shifting, with the seasons, the availability of ingredients and the chef’s whim. What was on the website did not match the menu on the outside window which did not match the menu handed to us by our hostess. This though, did create temporary confusion and rendered mild disappointment, but all was not lost.

New Rivers has two menus. One of which boasts of charcuterie, the chef’s specialty. Red dots marked which items of charcuterie were not available that evening, because of limited supply or ingredients, or just not available. The range is from pork, to duck, to fish, smoked, cured, or otherwise manipulated. Fresh and in-house. The other, the full menu, includes nibbles, small plates, and entrees. Each meal was accompanied by long lists of ingredients and details.

The food and tastes were not all that memorable, but visually stunning. Looking back is all I can do, just look in my memory and see the food. Unfortunately my tongue was not as stimulated as my eyes, though they do say, “you eat with your eyes first.”

The smoked blue fish from the charcuterie menu, paired with pickled cucumbers and crusty bread was delicious, fishy and smoky, flaky and wonderful all at the same time.  The portion was small, leaving the mouth longing for more, but the taste well worth it. The pork belly with melon was also a beautiful starter, a feast for the eyes. The small plate was decorated with tangy sweet pickled vegetables, peppers cucumbers, but also sprinkled with the most delicate cubes of orange ripe melon. The crisp crust of the fatty pork belly, contrasted the garden of color, as well as all the sweet flavors, adding that salty savory to the fresh melon. The colors of the pickled peppers and red onions, popped, bright and visual like a painting.

One of the entrees also had the same kind of visual appeal as the beginning courses. The ribs served with colorful slaw, grilled peaches, pickles and sweet corn bread, were assembled on what was like a wooden cutting board, rustic though artistic. The char of the meat was overwhelming, but the chutney of mustard seeds, onions and pepper, helped to equalize the smoke through its sweet pickled juices. The little mustard seeds burst on the tongue. Smoke ran through the peach as well, that added color and another kind of sweetness to the dish. The slaw, carrots and cabbage dusted with celery seed had crunch, and swirled prettily in the plate. And the last element of this indoor picnic, the cornbread was sweet and light. Everything in the end had a unique sweetness, visually creating a still life, with assorted colors and textures, from the light green of the pickles, to the pale yellow of the cornbread, to the rich meaty brown of the ribs.

The desserts too were works of art, composed with simplicity and balance, not only on the pallet but also through the aesthetics of sight. The lemon tart stood solitary on the plate, dusted with powdered sugar, alone with the citrus of the lemon and the sweet tang of the red raspberries. Centered, garnished with mint, a sole statue, bright and colorful. The peach and blueberry tart, decorated with a raspberry reduction and fresh blueberries, was surrounded with the abstract swirls of flavor. Topped with a mound of quiet rich vanilla ice cream melting slowly into the tart, concealing the sweet peach. They were both visually appealing dishes, simple and monumental, easily read and straightforward to taste.

This experience was more about what met the eye, than what touched the tongue. The food was hardly memorable in flavor, but the presentation really stuck, as well as the construction of the dining areas. It was more of an aesthetic adventure, rather than a culinary one. This is not to debunk the quality and craftsmanship of the dishes, as they were amazing to look at and marvel the technique and skill. However, the flavor profile felt limited and did not resonate. The common threads between dishes were too pronounced and flagrant, giving each dish too much of the same flavors. At the same time, these common threads, like the pickled vegetables and grilled peaches, created an artistic theme, connecting each dish visually, as if our meal was curated for the eyes. Perhaps, eating in the other dining room would make the food more memorable to the tongue, since it is like eating in a completely different place, creating a different experience. Who knows...

RER

8.25.12

RER 8.25.12

RER 8.25.12

 

drink2that: RHODE Island

RER 8.23.12

I can’t say I always veer towards the most creative drinks when I am out. Often there are too many to chose from and I get overwhelmed with fruity drinks and alcohol flavors. I tend to play it safe when getting a drink, but sometimes the creativity and combinations tempt me and I succumb. This is what happened on my adventure in Rhode Island. Some of the drinks on the long cocktail and specialty lists seemed so appealing, that I had to venture outside of my comfort zone.

Forty 1 North Bar--  Newport, RI

Mojito- The mojito was a classic and easy drink, though a little exotic because of the mint muddled with sugar. As always this mojito was fresh and refreshing, sweet enough to go down easy. The proportions were just right. Other than that, it was a pretty typical mojito.

El Diablo- The idea of the drink was beautiful, though the execution was not how I imagined the outcome would be. The tequila proportion was too high for the drink to be smooth. The sweet and spicy touch gingerale was struggling to equalize that, but provided nice carbonation and spike. The color was lovely in the glass, and the lime garnish highlighted the limejuice in the drink.

Red Parrot—Newport, RI

Pain Killer- This was one of those more fruity drinks I try to stay away from, but at the same time want. It was dark rum, with pineapple and orange juices, topped with just enough nutmeg to make it a little spicy. It was smooth and juicy, no chunks of fruit or large garnishes, nice and simple. The pineapple was tart and only muted with a touch of orange juice. I really liked the idea of nutmeg, it brought something special to the drink.

Pour Judgement—Newport, RI

Jack and Coke- This just happens to be the typical “Randi” drink. Just Jack Daniels and Coke; sweet, crisp, bubbly, caffeinated, and delicious. The other variation would be Jack and ginger ale, just as delicious and a little spicier. I had never been given such a large glass of Jack and Coke in my life. The bar tender filled up a soda glass and handed to us. The sweetness of the Jack Daniels was an undercurrent and glided nicely with the coca cola.

New Rivers—Providence, RI

Pimms- I love Pimms. In London it was one of my summer time go-to’s; Sangria for the British. This drink though was not how I remember the sweet Pimms mixes in the UK. It was almost bitter and ambushed with lime. The lime was definitely the strongest flavor in the drink. Gin followed. There was not a harmonious unison of all the flavors so the drink felt choppy.

Non- Alcoholic Melon drink- This drink had promise and great potential use of summer fruits. At first sip, it was delicious, sweet and refreshing. But then an intense lime bite chased the melon, coating the tongue and dominating every following sip. The drink was too tangy from the lime with no flavors to equalize. The melon flavors were all lost and longed for. It was pretty but way too much lime.

So, at the end of the day, my adventures were not worth straying from my usual. Most of the drinks I had did not tickle my fancy. My favorite was deffo the mojito from Forty 1 North (other than my large Jack and Coke), it was the cleanest and most straightforward, none of the fruity juices, or abnormally large garnishes, just mojito.

To see reviews of Red Parrot and Pour Judgement, check out my yelp page.

RER

9.10.12

JAR 8.25.12

TASTY on Thames: Tallulah on Thames

RER 8.23.12

RER 8.23.12

On one of the main streets in the bustling Newport, Rhode Island, sits a house on the corner, blue and white, understated, and unpretentious. The hostess, co- partner stood outside, making sure reservations and the table arrangements were running smoothly, with a smile. We were lead through the front door of the house, which was on the right side, passed the large windows revealing the subtle interior of Tallulah on Thames.

The theme was black and white; white tablecloths, the servers wore black pants and shirts with thickly black and white striped aprons, black chairs, white painted tin ceilings. The décor was very detailed, but in many ways wanted to express a subtle nonchalance and ease. An open shelf lined the wall above the window to the kitchen, with cubby holes carrying books about food in various languages. Figures of animals (pigs, lambs, cows) were on the bookcase as well as some of the counter tops by the kitchen. The lighting fixtures were extremely elegant and juxtaposed the directed laissez-faire of the rest of the décor, making the space creative and contemporary. This was just the dining area of the first floor.

The daily menus, dinner and wine, were staged on a sleek clipboard, looking straightforward and effortless. As we found out, the menu is always changing, and this clipboard presentation allows for that with ease. After studying the menu and asking our sever questions we decided on the prix fixe that starts at $55 as a base point and substitutions add to the price.

As our server put our bread and butter on our table, he described the ingredients and even where they were from. Our butter that night was from a Vermont creamery, topped with farmer micro greens and fleur de sel. The butter was creamy and smooth, and transformed when the mouth stumbled on some of the fleur de sel or grasped some of the tiny vegetation. Less impressed with the bread, awfully stuff and crusty, but obviously fresh and crafted with care.

For an appetizer we had a roasted beet salad—rainbow colored beets toasted in with smooth goat cheese, fennel shavings, micro greens, punctuated by “pumpernickel soil” (ground up pumpernickel croutons). The beets were roasted till soft, though some resilience remained, pairing nicely with the smooth cool goat cheese, and the delicate feel of the vanishing micro greens. The presentation of the dish was reminiscent of a vegetable garden, the pumpernickel soil as a sandy base, sporadic and hidden underneath the vine- like micro greens and fennel, and the rose and yellow colored beets the bounty.

The foie gras with a cherry reduction, regional peaches, croutons, a sweet corn sauce and other garnishes, was our other appetizer. Unfortunately there was a flat line in texture, other than the welcomed crunch from the crouton. The salty foie gras and the peaches kind of had the same silky smooth feel in the mouth, and many of the other components (decorative?) were sauces that slid through the teeth as well. The cherry reduction was very tangy and took over any bite that it was a part of, and did not go well with the other elements of the dish, though the sweetness, when in correct proportion, helped to balance out the salt and fat of the foie gras. A wanting difference in texture was found in the crunchy crouton. Though, that too seemed to be constructed in duck fat, making the appetizer even heavier and feeling greasy. The corn sauce was a lovely stroke of color and very sweet like ripe white corn. The addition of a few thin slices of fennel was great too to try to balance the heaviness of the foie gras. It added something fresh, light and wet, with a strong flavor to cut the fat, but not enough to transform the flavor.

As one of the prix fixe entrees, swordfish was rested on a bed of pesto-basil Isreali couscous, surrounded by colorful melon, tomatoes as well as more shavings of fennel. The swordfish was well seasoned and could stand up well on its own, but the accoutrements enhanced and created layered flavor combinations that felt different with every bite. The sweet melon contrasted sharply with the meatiness of the fish, cooling the mouth. Though, I was hoping the melon would be a little cooler to create another kind of contrast. The acidity of the grape tomatoes, the scant raddish and fennel, kept the dish bright, while the pearl couscous and the fleshy fish gave the dish substance.

The bomber scallops, that was paired with truffled mash potatoes, corn varieties and onion varieties. The plating was very pretty and helpful for the whimsical dish, which had two plays on ingredients. There were three kinds of corn on the plate; traditional corn pieces, little mini corns and the fun popcorn. Each gave a different distinct corn taste and fun texture. I especially enjoyed what the light popcorn brought to the dish, a playful crunch and airy lightness. Another play was the small pearl onions that were sweet and sweating, as well as the scallions that played on each other, mimicking texture and taste. The truffle mashed potato decoration also added a nice texture to the dish as well as new flavors. There was a nice control of truffle, which many times can be overwhelming and overpowering, but the aroma and taste was just enough to enhance.  A nice crust on the scallops, though they might have been slightly over cooked to my liking. The dish did lack color, as half the white plate was exposed and all the ingredients were varying shades of yellow or white. The only vibrant color that did stand out was the rich dark green of the chives.

The prix fixe dessert was a fennel panna cotta, topped with blueberries, fennel leaves, homemade granola and ginger. There were so many different flavors and layers, in this dessert, which made it truly an experience. The granola was warm which countered the smooth panna cotta, placed in a non-traditional dish, long and shallow. There were large grains of salt in the granola, which transformed the dessert into sweet and savory, as the menu lists the desserts. Salt and the sunflower seeds in the granola added the savory meaty side to the dessert. The ginger was spicy and crunchy, the blueberries mushy, and the torn pieces of mint made every bite with it sing.

The other dessert was what the menu called “Sweetberry Farm Taste of Strawberry.” The plate was littered with plump fresh strawberries and the other elements; dollops of mascarpone mousse, basil gel, lemon crumble and strawberry meringue were strewn on the plate as well. The basil gel also appeared in the swordfish dish, adding the savory component to the dessert. The lemon crumble felt like short bread and was the only crunch on the plate. The strawberry meringue was similar to soft fortune cookies, sweet and shiny. Just as in the other dessert the mint garnish served as an enhancer.

The presentation of the dishes was rather contemporary. The chef left a lot of negative space on the plates, creating works of art, but not necessarily practical dining. With the scallop dish, the plating proved useful, kind of directing the diner and her bites. Each swirl of truffled mash was accompanied by a scallop and some of each of the other ingredients, creating the perfect bites. Other plating became too deconstructed, making it difficult to decipher garnish from enhancer. This was true with the foie gras appetizer or the strawberry dessert. There did not seem to be any rhyme or reason, lackadaisical, making it difficult to eat, though staging an experiment for the mouth, only not all the pieces went well together.

Many ingredients made appearances in multiple dishes throughout the meal, which I really appreciate. It created almost a common thread that lead us through dinner. Fennel appeared in dishes, from the appetizers to scant pieces in the desserts. The fennel, bright and distinct, was thinly shaved making it hardly perceptible but still added the element of freshness in each presentation. It helped to create balance in the heavy dishes, cutting the fat and added a cleansing dimension. A basil oil also brought color and a little bite of freshness with the couscous that accompanied the swordfish. This same oil brought a savory note to the sweet and fresh strawberry dessert, connecting to completely disparate dishes.

In researching our dining options, looking at Tallulah’s website, the menu changed every day. Mostly subtle variations of ingredients or combinations mostly, but there were also larger protein differences as well. The chef’s creativity and familiarity with the ingredients is personified through the changes. This also demonstrates the importance of the freshness and availability of the ingredients to the chef and the vision of the restaurant. The menu also has a seasonal tilt, which underlines that importance. The freshness and the locality of the ingredients can be tasted throughout the dishes, from the scallops and swordfish, to the butter and the ripe strawberries.

The website for Tallulah on Thames does warn its patrons that seatings are two to two and a half hours, but we were there closer to three hours. The service wasn’t slow, the servers were attentive until almost the very end, but the gaps in between the courses were quite long. We could almost feel our dishes being made, and our servers gave us updates on the progress of our food. Though the leisurely dinner was enjoyable, giving us time to savor, enjoy and discuss, it could be inhibitive. Long wait time between courses though, is not indicative of quality, though Tallulah’s had no shortage of that.

If ever back in Rhode Island, I would be tempted to go back to Newport for a fancy meal at one of Tallulah on Thames’s tables. The food was scrumptious, the quality outstanding, and the innovation stunning, but some of the concepts might have been too contemporary. The food was not always straightforward, which at times was a disadvantage but interesting. If looking for a delicious culinary and visual adventure and experiment, I would definitely suggest Tallulah on Thames. 

RER

8.23.12

JAR 8.23.12

RER 8.23.12

CLAM SHACKS is where it's at

RER 8.22.12

On a short trip to Rhode Island, my boyfriend and I decided we were going to consume as much seafood as we possibly could, being that we were in New England. So with that goal in mind, we set out on our (sea)food adventures.

Flo’s Clam Shack—Middletown, R.I.

The night of our arrival, after a long long, traffic-ridden journey up to the small state, my boyfriend and I were famished and ready to start our seafood quest. Quickly flipping through the little “Rhode Island” book set in the hotel, we found Flo’s Clam Shack, under “Best Clam Shack.” 

Upon arrival, the charm of the place is apparent. It’s quirky, lively, fun… and cash only. There is ocean memorabilia hung all over the walls and the ceiling, and the menu has cartoon fishies. There were families and couples alike in the spot, some regulars and other visitors (the way to really tell who was from the area, was by how they ate their clam chowder—if they dipped the fried clam cakes, they were a native), but still a fun group and place.

Armed with hunger and ambition, we ordered the fisherman’s platter, which included what felt like everything under the sea. Notably: clams, clam strips, calamari, shrimps, scallops, fish, clam cakes—all fried. All fried and delicious. It was greasy and comfort food, but I could not stop. This was the moment I fell in love with fried clams. I have had clam strips and fried seafood before, but something about this was so fresh, so new and so exciting. The whole fried clams ended up being my favorite, meaty and chewy. The runner up was the fish, which was buttery underneath the batter. The batter used on most of the items was crunchy and salty, but the food wasn’t completely drained of the frying fat. It was hard to determine what was what underneath the fried goodness so every bite was a surprise on the tongue.

We also got white clam chowder and clam cakes. The chowder was hot and fresh, and it was deffo not as thick as I thought it would be. It was pretty loose but still creamy and hearty. Dipping the clam cakes was fun, but not necessary in my opinion.

RER 8.24.12

Evelyn’s Drive- In—Tiverton, R.I.

This little seafood shack was featured on an episode of “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” which we love, so when we saw it was just mere miles from Newport, we were down for the adventure. The menu is not long and prices are esoteric, as most of it is marked MKT (market price) and varies like the weather. Looking at what Evelyn’s Drive-In had to offer online beforehand, did not help us much in deciding when we got there. After moments of study and regulars getting mildly impatient, we ordered. We landed on a pint of fried clams (with the bellies!) and the intriguing lobster chow mein.

The little spot is located on a large road that felt in between towns, residential and wooded, but also set on water. There is a string of covered picnic tables right on the water, where, while we were waiting for our fried delights, we were able to look at boats.

When my boyfriend came back from picking up our food from the window, my hunger mounted and I was excited. We opened the lobster chow mein first, and I could feel my smile fall. It looked so weird. There was a thick gloppy sauce dumped heavy on top of fried noodles, drowning some sautéed vegetables and the beautiful lobster. It tasted almost as bizarre as it looked, but at the same time felt addicting. The crunch of the noodles made you come back for more even while questioning that decision. Unfortunately, the taste of the lobster was lost, but we could still tell the high quality of the ingredient.

The clams were fresh and fat, served up fried in a white Styrofoam container. This batter was less salty and greasy as at Flo’s. The clams did not go limp and have the same chewy texture I was expecting in comparison. Evelyn’s clams were more stiff and the crunchy exterior batter clung to the clams much better.

JAR 8.24.12

Iggy’s Doughboys and Chowder House—Narragansett, R.I.

Iggy’s was a suggestion given to me by a friend who has been living in Rhode Island since our time in college, so we thought it was worth a try. When we pulled up there was already a small crowd and a list of items that we were becoming familiar with by now (third time is the charm).

We decided on getting a kind of combo dinner, which includes french fries and a cup of clam chowder. We chose the combo with scallops and fried clams (just one last time). I love scallops, and I was hoping for the fat scallops that we had at Flo’s or beautiful ones I had for dinner (more to come on this later), but instead before us in our Styrofoam container, were marshmallow sized scallops. They were tiny baby ones, still fresh, but not enough scallop to even taste scallop.

The fried clams were decent, flimsy and greasy, but still had great clam taste. The batter here felt more sheer and less substantial, so all the details of the clam were moderately visible. I did not find myself addicted to these little clams as I was on our previous shack stops.

With our combo came our choice of clam chowder (white or red). Of course we chose white, who wants vegetable soup with clams in it (our interpretation of red/ Mahattan style clam chowder). This chowder was much much thicker than our bowl at Flo’s. It felt much heavier and creamier, almost like a clam gravy. All the ingredients were masked by the “broth,” but flecks of seasoning were visible and the clams, light pink brown, would surface occasionally. This chowder was too rich for more than a few bites, let alone a whole bowl, but all and all delicious.

The Run-Down

So, one would think fried clams are fried clams, and my adventures in Rhode Island told me that that can not be the case. My favorite experience overall was deffo Flo’s, not only was the atmosphere and food fun, but there we got the most bang for our buck (in cash). We got a heaping plate with a seafood garden and crispy fries, for the same market price that we got the 9oz of fried clams for at Evelyn’s. Iggy’s too, was well worth the dollar and was a deal, but the food was not my favorite. If you are visiting, around the Newport area in Rhode Island and have a strong yen for some fried up seafood, I would highly recommend Flo’s Clam Shack, for its food, atmosphere and memories.

RER 8.22.12