Showing posts with label short ribs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label short ribs. Show all posts

6.20.2014

second YELPing...


RER 6.8.14
It was Sunday Funday, so that meant double brunch date. The four of us headed to The Bistro at Grove Square for brunchy food and brunchy drinks. The sun was shining and it was warm out, perfect for a little meal sitting outside. Even though it took three breakfast dishes to satiate me and by boyfriend, it was still a good time with bellinis and giggles. Check out more of the review on yelp.
RER 6.8.14
RER 6.8.14

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RER 6.8.14
Don’t forget to follow on facebook, instagram, twitter, yelp and pintrest to keep up with all the food adventures.
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6.8.14
RER 6.8.14

8.12.2013

HudsonRW: Satis Bistro


RER 8.6.13
Entering Satis Bistro, in the quiet neighborhood of Paulus Hook, Jersey City, is like entering a portal that shifts time and transports to somewhere else. The space is a maze of minute details, like a museum, but it is still breathing, alive with the movement of time, people and food. There are pictures in frames hung purposefully on a small wall, and a tall communal table under a giant chalk board with latin scrawled in a rainbow of colors, and there are green hanging plants seated in the high windows, drawing the eye up to the very tall ceilings and eventually to a second lofted dining area. Even the powder room felt aged and lived in. But a visible kitchen, where some appetizers and cheese plates are prepared, is its own space, completely different than the rest, and thrown further back in time, underlined by rustic touches of benches for seating and rough pillows throughout the venue. 

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The restaurant has a definite atmosphere, a kind of allure like the scent of fatty short ribs, gnocchi pillows, and red wine vibrato. Somehow there is a swirling of place and time, until neither is quite distinguishable, but the flavors reign and solid technique soars. Either through the super chilled avocado vichyssoise, with almost enough charred corn, summer tomatoes and watercress coulis, floating just so in the middle of the creamy and rich soup. Or the cheese plate appetizer with its haphazard elegance of apricot chutney, hot with mustard seeds, or the red ribbon of prosciutto and fat, and crusty bread.

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Even what seems as straightforward as meat and potatoes or simple pasta, was elevated to something luxurious and comfortable at the same time. The short ribs, tender with time and seasoning, were fatty and surrounded by a bold peppery sauce, which balanced the richness, and enlivened the starch of the tangy goat cheese mashed potatoes. An addition of tiny cubes of chorizo, pushed the dish further. The mixture of  varied textures created a pieced together harmony, much like the décor of the restaurant.

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This play on the expected and the unexpected puzzle continued with the surprising gnocchi. There were not the little dots of doughy dumplings that are asssumed; but these were like little biscuits, pillows of ricotta with the essence of citrus and browned. The six fluffy dumplings were highlighted by a creamy sauce, gently wilted escarole, firm white beans and sweet roasted garlic. The dish was rich and reminiscent of home, comfort and familiarity, but the quality and technique equated refinement.

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The sundaes, however, were an easy way out, strikingly contrasting the effort put into every other detail. There were not the careful and pristine elements constructed into the melty moments of chocolate and vanilla ice cream drenched in caramel and dashed in toasted coconut and meaty nuts, or the round balls of unnatural strawberry and vanilla disguising a dense sweet corn pound cake, as in other facets of the restaurant.  They were easy and effortless though, like the amalgamation of flavors and the mixed aesthetic. The sundaes did not transport across sea and continent, but rather, back in time to childhood and midnight concoctions.

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Every element of Satis is orchestrated, creating an experience that does not stop at the food— it is an atmosphere, a transformation of a small space into an anonymous bistro in another part of the world. Its European roots are demonstrated through charcuterie, pastas, meats and fishes, a blend of the old and new and near and far.
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RER 8.6.13

8.06.2013

HudsonRW: Sabores


RER 8.2.13
It was a double date for Hudson Restaurant Week, and we were headed to a place that none of us had ever gone too, so we were excited to try out Sabores for their $30 prix fixe.

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Amuse Bouche
Guacamole
The plate of bold green guacamole came decorated with a few colorful tortilla chips and hot red peppers, almost as if they were an indicator. It initially seemed like a lot of guacamole, almost too much for the number of mildly stale colorful chips, but in the end it was devoured. The guacamole was very spicy and flavorful, drowning out the stale after moment of the chips. It was creamy and just enough to hold us over for the coming dishes.

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First
Ensalada de Sandia
Watermelon, papaya, tomatillo and cucumber salad
This watermelon salad sounded light and refreshing, delicious and different, but we all ignored something in the item description, the orange-mezcal vinaigrette. And I wish I hadn’t. The appetizer would have been all of those things I wished for, if it hadn’t been for the smokiness of the mezcal that plagued the fresh fruit. It made everything taste like tar and thick, just my palate found it less than appetizing.

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Quinoa
The quinoa starter was alive with vegetables and encircled with a cilantro jalapeno salsa, but this too was spicy. The quinoa grains were smaller and wetter than I was used to, and the serving was just a sampling, but it was pretty good, hearty and a nice start.

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Gazpacho de Nopal
Unlike the gazpacho I am used to, this appetizer was green and served in a fancy drink glass. The summer soup was made with cactus, tomatillo cucumber, bell peppers and a beautiful dash of color, with the cherry tomato. The surface of the thick cold soup was dotted with oil and two halves of cherry tomatoes. It was pretty to look at, but thick and viscous, kind of salty in a soy sauce kind of way, but definitely edible.

Second
Pescado
Fish tacos
Now the fish tacos were not a part of the prix fixe menu, but they were absolutely delicious. The ratios were just right; a thick piece of seasoned and lightly fried fish nestled in double corn tortillas, topped with a bright pico de gallo. The flavors married well, the spicy, and sweet, and the almost dry tortilla.

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Lomo de Cerdo
Grilled Pork Tenderloin
Two of our party got the lomo, and unfortunately that was a moment where we saw inconsistency in the pretty new restaurant. One of the thin pieces of pork was far more well done than the other, resulting in a completely different experience. The sweet potato puree and honey chipotle glaze played to the affinity pork has for sweetness, adding moisture and texture, while the seasonal veggies almost blended in with the other elements, colorful but forgettable.

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Costillas en cacao
Short ribs
The plump piece of  short rib sat on a little bed of mashed potatoes and was surrounded by a dark meaty cacao demi glaze, and nestled by a  patch of dressed salad greens. The meat was super tender, decadent and delicious, everything you really want in the texture of a short rib, though the flavor was kind of muted, and dulled further by the dense, startchy potatoes. The greens not only made the plate look more balanced, but it lightened the dish, and added a little brightness.

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Third
Nieve de Horchata
Horchata sorbet with spicy pecans
The rice milk based drink, Horchata, was transformed into an icy and almost watery sorbet, encapsulating spicy cinnamon and warmth. The flavor was really nice of the sorbet, arousing almost contradicting memories of spicy fall and refreshing summer. It was super light, but the texture was a little chalky, and almost dense, missing a smoothness to unite the taste.

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Natilla de Maracuya
Passion fruit crème brulee
This crème brulee looked like any other, yellowish custard in a ramekin, browned and crisp on the top, and even the decorative strawberries recalled other crème brulees. This time, however, the smooth and creamy custard was infused with tangy sweet passion fruit. There were no pieces of the fruit throughout the custard, which maintained the expected texture, with the surprising flavor.

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Overall, there were delicious moments to our dinner, mainly with our mains. The portions were not too large which made three courses easier, but in the end it may not have been enough. The service was a little slow, especially in getting the bill and paying (oddly enough), and the atmosphere got to be a little draining with loud music and bad acoustics. I would go again, but maybe on taco Tuesday.
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8.2.13
RER 8.2.13

2.12.2013

Hudson County Restaurant Week Food Diary: Maritime Parc


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Saturday, February 2, 7.30 pm: Maritime Parc, Jersey City
Maritime Parc just inside of Liberty State Park was very different than the other restaurants we had been to thus far for Hudson CountyRestaurant Week. It was much quieter, much more subdued. Maybe it was the time of the night, but it did not feel like the place would get more crowded later. It felt almost undiscovered, like a secret hidden in the park.

Maritime Parc restaurant occupies part of a circular building, and the other part is dedicated to events and event planning. The building is beautiful, all glass windows around the top floor, white and lit, almost like a wide light house, a beach front property. The round architecture gives the restaurant a sinuous curve, and so that circular theme appeared again in the round tables and semi circular booths. Even one side of the restaurant is rounded with windows, looking over on the water and the New York City skyline. The view is stunning, perfect like a painted backdrop for a delicious date.

The décor was very refined and matter of fact, but also classy and minimalist, which kind of also reflected the plating of the food. Everything was really understated; white, light wood, and dark from the outside.

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The prix fixe menu was small, each course with only three selections, though the main menu was not large either, one single front side of a piece of paper. The prix fixe, in comparison to the regular menu, had all the dishes I desperately wanted, except for maybe one or two. The mains mostly featured the seafood portion of the restaurant’s expertise, and looked to a winter favorite for a starter.

Unlike our other stops during Restaurant Week, at Maritime Parc we were given ample bread, ranging from white, to wheat, to a type with nuts and dried fruit. This bread was paired with a small bowl of the sweetest and creamiest butter I can remember and another tiny bowl containing flaky sea salt. The combination a real treat. We were also given a shallow dish of pickled red onions, feta cheese, cucumber floating in a sweet beet juice. This was also lovely, tart and tangy, but leveled by the bread and butter.

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For starters we tasted the baby arugula salad and the octopus a la plancha. The salad was pretty standard; the firey rocket cooled by the poached pear, red with liquid, and the Valdeon calmed by the meaty spiced nuts. It was light and refreshing, though as usual, there was too much of the strong cheese, and not enough sweet pear to balance. Somehow in the end, as always, we ended up with too many toppings for the dwindling amount of greens. The cheese was also in big chunks which made it harder to digest and enjoy its pungent flavors. 

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The octopus a la plancha was the complete opposite of the light salad appetizer. This starter was heavy, salty, luxurious and decadent. It was a flavorful composition of tender octopus pieces, crispy greasy bites of potatoes, and some slow cooked pork belly. There was a sea of textures, from the creamy octopus, to the stringy pork, allowing each bite to be different. The decadence was topped with a little frisee lettuce, to add brightness and a little freshness to the heavy starter. The leek puree underneath the mass of potatoes, octopus, and belly, and fat, was almost tasteless through the salt and heaviness of the other elements, but gave great color.

The entrees we chose were the local sea scallops and the fresh strigoli seafood pasta. Well, get this, just the words “local sea scallops” were bolded, as they were the main event, but these two beautiful scallops sat on top three pieces of braised short rib. This is a luxurious take on Sea and Land, both elements prime from their respective sphere. The scallops were nicely seared, and just half a second shy from being under cooked, but they chewed so nicely and felt fresh. They had little flavoring, other than their natural sweetness and saltiness. The short ribs were also well prepared, stringy, and falling apart with a tender stroke of the knife. The combination was really nice, similar textures, with completely different flavors, an equilibrium of the heaviness of the meat and the daintiness of the seafood. Underneath this pile of goodness was a Gribiche sauce, spiked with onion and garlic. This sauce apparently is like a cousin of mayonnaise, studded with capers and reminded me of potato salad without the potatoes. It was a little strong, but added another element to the dish, and something to smear on the meat, and watch vanish as it was almost absorbed.

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The pasta dish was amazing, though not much to look at. It was a heaping bowl of pasta, with dots of a few different colors, but not many. The sauce that drenched the thick shaped pasta, was creamy, heavy and delicious, spiked with lemon and thyme. It smelled like paradise, because of the herbs and the dispersed seafood. There were kernels of fresh cooked, sweet corn throughout, bringing out the sweetness of the seafood, as well as the richness of the sauce. The bowl held an array of different textures and flavors, and was all married well with the sauce and the al dente pasta. It was extremely addictive, comforting and filling. It felt familiar and fancy at the same time. I kept finding myself reaching over our small circular table, to snatch some pasta from my dining best friend. Though delicious, it was not extremely memorable in flavor, almost monotonous except for the different seafoods like scallop, shrimp and crab meat. But what I do remember, is that it was absolutely delicious.
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Of the three desserts offered, two were pretty predictable; a chocolate and a crumble, but the third was hard to imagine and innovative, so we had to try it. It was a beautiful little tropical vacation for dessert, focused on an island of vacheron (sweet French cheese) surrounded by coconut lemongrass sorbet, floating in a pool of passion fruit coulis, and topped with little pieces of kiwi, pineapple and mango. It was accompanied by a long thin strip of lime meringue. This was the most different, complicated, but delicious desserts I have had in a while. It was abstract looking, but everything fit together so nicely; the tart fruits with the tangy coulis, smothered by the sweetness of the sorbet and cheese, and made staccato with the crunch of the meringue. There were a few little micro greens on top, as well as what felt like pepper, adding another savory like element, in conjunction with the cheese.
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The second dessert we decided on was the crisp. It was an apple pear crisp, pretty and round, standing alone. Next to it, was a scoop of cinnamon ice cream studded with mini butterscotch chips, and topped with a thin dried slice of apple like a hat. There was a stripe of caramel and strawberry, flavors that both heightened and contrasted the cold sweet ice cream, and warm muted crisp. The textures were all over the place, and the chips in the ice cream was definitely a surprise in the mouth, as we didn’t expect something so hard in the smooth frozen treat. There were crumbles under the ice cream too that mimicked those on top of the individual crisp. Both the desserts were a beautiful end to a delicious dinner, filled with unexpected tastes and flavors that had me longing for more. I am so glad we took advantage of Hudson County Restaurant Week to discover and indulge in Maritime Parc.
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2.08.2013

Hudson County Restaurant Week Food Diary: Elysian Cafe


RER 2.4.13
Friday, February 1, 8ish pm: Elysian Café, Hoboken
It was a double date this time, but the wait was long. I called earlier that day to make some kind of reservation for the restaurant, but unfortunately, they do not take reservations for under six on the weekends, however, I was assured over the phone that if I came with my party around 8, we could be seated pretty quickly. That was a dream that did not come to fruition. We all spent the preamble less than comfortable with our coats on in the narrow space between a long bar and a slew of crowded tables in the front room of the Elysian Café. At least there was a decent time wasting movie on the television over the bar and the amaretto sour was sweet.

This place is the younger sister, and it feels like it. The Flinns own one of the gems of Hoboken, Amanda’s as well as this French inspired Elysian Café. Elysian, has a completely different feel, more trendy, with more of a transporting effect, you feel like you are somewhere else, and the outside city kind of vanishes. Maybe it was the dim lighting (that could be Friday night), or the noise, and the bar, and the television and the trendy people drinking drinks and eating or waiting to eat. It was probably all of that, a whole different vibe, more casual and less refined, obviously the younger sister.

After waiting what felt like forever, the four of us were seated in the second room of the restaurant. The walls radiated blue because of the setting lighting, were deeply patterned with rococo florals, twisting and turning stems. The black and white tiled floor mimicked the color of the walls, and the dark booth. It was a little quieter back there, but not quite peaceful enough to carry on detailed, content heavy conversations.

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I am going to preface this all with… I was very disappointed from the beginning, the wait, the people there, the service, and eventually the food. I suppose I had high expectations, basically being raised on the delicious adultness that is Amanda’s, Elysian Café was a far fall down.

The $35 prix fixe had four options for each of the courses, something for almost everyone; a soup, two salads and a starch, as starters, some fish, pork, chicken and meat, hot, cold and chocolate desserts. A nice range, hearty enough, playing with the winter season; butternut squash soup, winter vegetables, apples, pumpkins and blueberries. This prix fixe menu kind of gave a glimpse into some of the more profound dishes on the regular menu.

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To start, there was one butternut squash soup, one smoked salmon, and two rock shrimp risotto starters. All of which were pretty weak. The uniting theme was a lack of balance. The butternut squash soup, was thin and too finely pureed to the point where it felt like tomato soup. Just from making a soup employing a butternut squash just a little while ago, I have learned that they are somewhat resilient squashes. This soup eliminated every glimmer of that, and manipulated the gourd into a sweet juice. The smoked salmon appetizer too, was overrun, invaded by the bitter frisee and not enough of anything else to combat it. The frisee visually disguised almost all the other ingredients, only at times the bright red blood oranges would peak through, but the salty smoked salmon was hidden until grabbed onto in the mouth. It was a light appetizer, somewhat cleansing and refreshing because of the juicy citrus, but mildly weighed down from what was like lox (an upgrade of course from the bagel store). And the risotto was a complete let down. It wanted every characteristic and adjective I would ever use to describe risotto. Basically it was very lemony rice, sprinkled with green herbs, and pale pale shrimp. There was not the creamy element that we all think of when we hear risotto. It was both under and over cooked at the same time. And one of the four described it as a heavy appetizer. That it was, heavy and disappointing.

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We only really sampled the braised short rib, and the rosemary brined pork chop. When I see “short rib” on a menu it is extremely difficult for me to pass up. In some ways I am glad I didn’t this evening, but in others, I wish I had. The meat was not as succulent and juicy as I was hoping or dreaming of. This short rib was not quite as good as the one I had just a few days before (link). The grits however were classic deliciousness. Of course the slow cooked hunk of meat needs a starch base to drink up the juices created with time. But these grits were sweet and salty, and most definitely not of the quick variety. The stewed winter vegetables were nice; carrots, turnips, and mushrooms, heavy and filling. All in all it was ok, but I have had better short ribs elsewhere (at home…). 

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Now the pork chop was too dry, like all of its life was depleted from it because of cooking or perhaps even the “brining” (brining generally makes the meat or poultry in question cook faster, therefore timing in cooking is key). The accompanying brussel sprouts were great color, but just the classic baby cabbage. And the apples served the vital role of moisture and chaser for the pork chop. Unfortunately, the sauce on the plate, meant to help in that was too bitter to even want to eat, and its spread poisoned the sweet potato rosti which could have been intriguing and delicious. Both of these mains suffered from what felt like technical mishaps and oversights, but not intentional. 

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 Of the four desserts offered, one (the apple blue berry crisp, which I really was hoping to try) was sold out (it was about 10:15pm at this point), the sorbet and ice cream never too interesting, and there was the chocolate molten cake, and the pumpkin cheesecake. The pumpkin cheesecake was really lovely, as the pumpkin flavor was mild but present, and the texture smooth and creamy, until the tongue encountered the crunchy sweet and almost salty graham cracker crust. This rather large slice of cheesecake was served with a rather large dollop of unsweetened whipped cream. The caramel sauce on the plate played up the natural sweetness of the cream, and heightened the seasonal sensibility of the pumpkin. And the chocolate cake, was like many molten chocolate cakes; warm, moist, gooey, and above all, severely chocolaty.

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And here it is. The food was not so great considering the restaurant’s relatives; the lack of balance and preparation was quite shocking to me.  Also the service was not so great. Don’t get me wrong, our guy was really nice, friendly, but also seemed a little overwhelmed. He confused my drink order (just the size of the pour), but also a dessert; one of us got one, when he ordered another. Just in an environment like the one that Elysian was trying to create calls for a higher attention to detail like that of the décor, in all aspects.

The trick is not to drink.
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