LUNCHING with Little Collins

Courtesy of Little Collins

Despite the somewhat cold industrial interior— Edison bulbs, woods and metals—Little Collins, an Australian style coffee shop, is vibrant and inviting. Perhaps it’s the easy to swallow beverage menu or the flavorful to the point food options made with fresh ingredients. Or the smiles that greet every customer even when the line is practically out the door and everyone is in a rush. It could be that.
 

Little Collins is not your average coffee shop where you grab a cuppa joe and a bite and dash. It’s that and so much more. “We are doing our best to make specialty coffee accessible to everyone. Coffee shops can be intimidating,” says Leon Unglik, an owner. “Our staff is trained to be fastidious about coffee preparation but also to put customer service above all else.”

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The pace is fast, but time can also be relished with deep sips of aromatic coffee and seasonal blends. Smells of coffee and baked goods are hypnotizing while the tinkle of glassware is melodic. Counter seats are immersive as baristas move with purposeful ease and tiny tables along the wall allow for slowed down snacks. Even the rush is soothing.

“We want this to be a place that people want to hang out in,” Unglik says. But, it’s also about the coffee.

The midtown cafe begins with high-quality Counter Culture Coffee and brews with top of the line gear: the Kalita Wave brewing device, Fetco for batch brewing and is the first in New York with Modbar pour-over taps and espresso equipment. Unglik describes the flat white, popular both at Little Collins and in Australia, as a “thinner latte in a cappuccino cup.” The warm drink is velvety, not abrasive for the unaccustomed coffee consumer but Arnon Magal, an owner, also says “coffee geeks and snobs say wow right away.”

The curated menu, dotted with Australian staples, features 'brekkie,' soups, sandwiches and salads with a focus on “flavor profile and execution,“ according to Magal. “We are very much about fresh, seasonal ingredients and interesting yet simple combinations,” Unglik says of the food program created by Magal.

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The food philosophy is evident in the popular avocado smash, which recalls Down Under.  A whole bright green avocado, mashed with salty feta, lays thick on a toasted grainy bread. Red chile flakes and herbs brighten the rich avocado, while earthy pepitas add a meaty savory note. Definitely a hearty start.

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Sweeter, the Sweet Uncle Fred is like a quick brunch, but tastes almost as leisurely. Warmed banana bread is smeared with not quite savory ricotta and topped with strawberries and blueberries, stripes of honey and toasted granola-like almonds.  The fresh berries highlight the rawness of the ricotta, but the crunch of the almonds echo the walnuts of the bread. Simplistic beauty and refreshing unpretentious flavors make for a sweet beginning.

Courtesy of Little Collins

With more to wake you up than just java, Little Collins, boasting origins in Australian coffee culture and featuring plush bites, brings something new to midtown and the growing New York specialty coffee scene.

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Little Collins

667 Lexington Ave

New York, NY 10022

ph 212.308.1969

it's all in the NEIGHBORHOOD: Kipsey's

Photo Credit: Christina Clusiau

There is no way around it, Kipsey’s is what owner, Arnon Magal, describes it as: “a neighborhood restaurant done right.”

Kipsey’s encapsulates an old school meaning of the diner, not the current connotation of mile long menus, greasy spoons, and rapid-fire service. It’s a neighborhood spot, dishing out homemade “simple, generous American comfort food.” The depth is in the sincere flavors, succinct variety and quality ingredients. Everything is made from scratch, in house, everyday— from the mayo on the burgers, to the hot sauce and the bacon. There is no mistaking the meticulous care and passion, as Magal says, the food is “simple but we take ourselves seriously.” 

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The corner restaurant located in Kip’s Bay, which Magal believes to be “the last real neighborhood in the City,” is not exactly trendy. It offers “straightforward, honest food,” with recipes that are “transparent” and “nothing highly sophisticated,” according to Magal. “We are not fighting to be unique, “ he continues. “But striving and succeeding at being accessible.” The prices are affordable, making Kipsey’s a place you can frequent.

 

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Kipsey’s presents an eclectic gathering of starters, with flavors that characterize New York City— smooth and subtle humus, smoky grilled wings. Though, the chipotle corn bread was lacking some heat, the parsley butter met the sweetness of the bread. The cured salmon, house-cured for a quick 24 hours, was absolutely amazing, with a sweet wave of salt and dill heightened by cool crème fraiche. But, the thick bacon was a must.

 

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Even the entrees speak to the American South and beyond. Favorites like meatloaf and rotisserie chicken are side by side with grilled salmon and the Kipsey’s burger. The meats like the slow smoked brisket and the braised short rib are definitely highlights on the menu. Both meats were cooked expertly, tender to the point where they melted in the mouth. Texture of the meats really took the forefront, whereas the flavors were subtle. The same was true of the schnitzel, which was livelier with a squeeze of the lemon. But each was reminiscent of home.

 

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There is nothing complicated about the sides either, just simple comfort food. With sides like cauliflower, mac and cheese, coleslaw and more, there is something for everyone. The creamy mashed potatoes had a welcomed ratio of cream and butter, while the spinach was studded with tons of garlic. The smoked baked beans and the hamhock greens, however, were missing a little life. The hand cut fries, Magal reveals, go through an involved process to reach his satisfaction, “crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.”

 

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Desserts too were a mish mash of origins and styles. The apple crumble had a deconstructed approach, too disjointed to be a classic. Timeless pecan pie was transformed a little to a tiny individual pie, which was lost in almost savory fresh whipped cream. These modifications felt dishonest to the Kipsey’s approach.

 

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There is nothing innovative about technique, flavor profile or even style but that is not what the restaurant is about. Kipsey’s prides itself on “generosity, comfort and neighborhood” and being “super casual and super friendly.” The staff make guests feel welcomed and special every single visit.  Magal and his wife both make the rounds, calling each regular by name. The family friendly warm atmosphere creates a sense of community, even though Magal says, “people come to Kipsey’s to eat!”

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Kipsey's  

438 Second Avenue

New York, NY 10010

Ph. 646.590.3410

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