the TAIL END of brunch : Park & Sixth Gastropub

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After being put on the list for a table at another place, and driving in circles looking for something enticing enough for the sunny day, we stumbled on Park & Sixth Gastropub just in time for brunch. Relieved, we ordered the discounted brunch drinks— a sweet and strong bellini for me, and a sharp and generic mimosa for him, each $4.

The brief brunch menu had just enough, but the mix of the sophisticated and the comfortable struck me. The menu played to both tastes, creating an interesting aesthetic, almost as eclectic and precise as the décor.

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The brisket and fresh mozzarella sandwich came with a sweet little basket of fries. Its meat was tender and its mozzarella was stretchy on the toasty bread. The two elements melded, fused by cheese and grease.  However, the meaty au jus overwhelmed the sandwich, taking away from the classic execution of the slow cooked meat and the texture of the cheese. The fries, however, were absolutely delicious; crispy, soft in the middle, well seasoned and hot.

The duck confit hash dish was beautiful— a formed round mound of chunky hash, two white poached eggs, crowned with some delicate micro greens and a weeping dollop of chipotle hollandaise. When I went to puncture the poached eggs to let the rich yolk ooze over the duck and potato hash, there was no runny yolk just solid over cooked middle. Yes, I was disappointed, but I was ready to eat it without complaint. An off duty server noticed my discontent and mentioned something to the manager who came directly over to talk to me. She was extremely nice, and offered me a new plate, which I accepted.

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And I was so glad I did. These second poached eggs were runny and mixed with the large cut potatoes and stringy duck perfectly. It was rich and filling with a lovely flavor profile, ranging from the salty and fatty duck, to the creamy starchy potatoes, tangy slivers of cooked red peppers, and the smooth and spicy chipotle hollandaise. So rich and so luxurious, I could not finish it (please note: it was finished).

After a while and different servers checked in on us, we decided to get dessert, landing on the “chipwich” which included some chocolate chip cookies and salted caramel gelato. Our taste buds were ready for something ridiculously sweet after the intensely savory brunch we just had. We received tiny dessertspoons, only for our server to tell us that they had run out of the requested dessert. Great.

We left with a bad taste in our mouths, feeling like the service was lacking and the staff unsteady. Despite manager’s professionalism, the staff was super casual, chatting amongst themselves, and not so attentive. Maybe it was a shift change or we arrived at the tail end of brunch, but we were kind of forgotten. Unfortunately, that was the resounding memory we were left with, not the details of delicious food.

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it's all in the NEIGHBORHOOD: Kipsey's

Photo Credit: Christina Clusiau

There is no way around it, Kipsey’s is what owner, Arnon Magal, describes it as: “a neighborhood restaurant done right.”

Kipsey’s encapsulates an old school meaning of the diner, not the current connotation of mile long menus, greasy spoons, and rapid-fire service. It’s a neighborhood spot, dishing out homemade “simple, generous American comfort food.” The depth is in the sincere flavors, succinct variety and quality ingredients. Everything is made from scratch, in house, everyday— from the mayo on the burgers, to the hot sauce and the bacon. There is no mistaking the meticulous care and passion, as Magal says, the food is “simple but we take ourselves seriously.” 

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The corner restaurant located in Kip’s Bay, which Magal believes to be “the last real neighborhood in the City,” is not exactly trendy. It offers “straightforward, honest food,” with recipes that are “transparent” and “nothing highly sophisticated,” according to Magal. “We are not fighting to be unique, “ he continues. “But striving and succeeding at being accessible.” The prices are affordable, making Kipsey’s a place you can frequent.

 

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Kipsey’s presents an eclectic gathering of starters, with flavors that characterize New York City— smooth and subtle humus, smoky grilled wings. Though, the chipotle corn bread was lacking some heat, the parsley butter met the sweetness of the bread. The cured salmon, house-cured for a quick 24 hours, was absolutely amazing, with a sweet wave of salt and dill heightened by cool crème fraiche. But, the thick bacon was a must.

 

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Even the entrees speak to the American South and beyond. Favorites like meatloaf and rotisserie chicken are side by side with grilled salmon and the Kipsey’s burger. The meats like the slow smoked brisket and the braised short rib are definitely highlights on the menu. Both meats were cooked expertly, tender to the point where they melted in the mouth. Texture of the meats really took the forefront, whereas the flavors were subtle. The same was true of the schnitzel, which was livelier with a squeeze of the lemon. But each was reminiscent of home.

 

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There is nothing complicated about the sides either, just simple comfort food. With sides like cauliflower, mac and cheese, coleslaw and more, there is something for everyone. The creamy mashed potatoes had a welcomed ratio of cream and butter, while the spinach was studded with tons of garlic. The smoked baked beans and the hamhock greens, however, were missing a little life. The hand cut fries, Magal reveals, go through an involved process to reach his satisfaction, “crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.”

 

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Desserts too were a mish mash of origins and styles. The apple crumble had a deconstructed approach, too disjointed to be a classic. Timeless pecan pie was transformed a little to a tiny individual pie, which was lost in almost savory fresh whipped cream. These modifications felt dishonest to the Kipsey’s approach.

 

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There is nothing innovative about technique, flavor profile or even style but that is not what the restaurant is about. Kipsey’s prides itself on “generosity, comfort and neighborhood” and being “super casual and super friendly.” The staff make guests feel welcomed and special every single visit.  Magal and his wife both make the rounds, calling each regular by name. The family friendly warm atmosphere creates a sense of community, even though Magal says, “people come to Kipsey’s to eat!”

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Kipsey's  

438 Second Avenue

New York, NY 10010

Ph. 646.590.3410

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12.20.13

 

re.CAP: THANKSGIVING

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This year I was super lucky and got to indulge in two completely different Thanksgiving dinners, while celebrating with my families. For the first time, I ventured to my boyfriend's house for their early afternoon feast, sitting amongst his big family and munching on their traditional twist on Thanksgiving. Beginning with little bites like cheese and sausage, deviled eggs, bread and tiny meatballs, merging into a first course of lasagna at the table, and following with an onslaught of sides and meat/poultry, it was definitely a cornucopia. Dessert was varied as well (although, we didn’t get to have any because we had to save a little room for a second dinner). Take a look at the delicious offerings, and stay tuned for my family’s smaller Thanksgiving dinner. 

 

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