photo op: FLORIDA food

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This weekend I was lucky to not only escape the dreary weather of the North East, but also attend my boyfriend’s sister’s intimate wedding ceremony down in the Cocoa Beach area of Florida. Temperatures were warmer, but what made the trip the most enjoyable was spending time with the families and being a part of the small gathering. While we were away, there was a ton of eating, of course. The groom’s mother mentioned in one of many toasts, during one of many meals, that both families like to talk and to eat, which was made quite obvious during this celebratory long weekend. I had some seafood at Milliken’s Reef at Port Canaveral,

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  and at Stonewood Grill and Tavern by Orlando,

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 decadent ice cream at the Ghirardelli’s in Downtown Disney,

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 yummy pizza at Ryan’s Village Pizza and Pub in Cocoa Village,

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and good old diner food at Sunrise Diner.

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This was just the beginning. The restaurant landscape was quite different from up here, as there were more chains and fewer "mom and pop" establishments—we tasted a little mix of both.

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2.19.14

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HudsonRW : Skylark on the Hudson

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At $13 for a prix fixe lunch, Skylark on the Hudson treated its customers well for Hudson RestaurantWeek. The restaurant, a self-proclaimed fine diner, combines tables, booths, neon lights, various patterns and large orb lights, to create that diner aesthetic. A wall of windows overlook the Hudson River, making the eatery seem even larger, lighter and more playful.

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Even though the regular menu looked like a jumble, there are a wide variety of elevated diner dishes from familiar sandwiches to hefty salads and fancy main courses. Visually the HudsonRW menu was more straightforward, listing highlights. But each plate had a clean presentation and none of the mess of a traditional diner.

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The crab cake appetizer from the regular menu was tasty, but the fresh buttery popcorn heavily dusted with Old Bay seasoning added something a little different. The popcorn was playful pairing with the sophisticated crab cake. Even the french fries served with the prix fixe corned beef Ruben, were a step above your typical diner fare. These were thick, supple and soft on the inside, with a thin layer of crunch and felt like home away from home.

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However, the chicken quesadilla one of the appetizers on the special menu, did not offer anything different or exciting. It was just a cheesy quesadilla, with a good crunchy texture on the outside and an oozy cheesy and warm barbeque sauce center. It was just large enough to get a taste of the favorite.

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The corned beef Ruben was only half a sandwich for the restaurant week special, but it made an impression. Though the sandwich is a diner classic, the quality of the ingredients made Skylark’s Ruben so much more than a slippery diner specialty. Somehow the ratios were perfect, letting the chewy pink meat of the corned beef shine. The bread was super crunchy not greasy, to counter the melty cheese, the thin layer of tangy sauerkraut and just enough Russian dressing.

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A shrimp scallop provencal on the regular menu offered a deep bowl of wet risotto delicately topped with tender shrimp and scallops. The dish was attractive, rich with the aroma of a beurre blanc and the sea. The seafood flavors seeped into the pool of vegetable risotto below it, creating another dimension and layer for the seemingly straightforward dish.

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The apple strudel, a dessert offering for the lunch prix fixe, came hot, with a tiny orb of ice cream on top of the buttery layers of pastry. While the doughy elements tasted luxurious, it was dense and chewy and the apples were washed out and lackluster.

The dressed up diner definitely has a dense menu which mixing diner favorites with an elevating flourish. Skylark on the Hudson manages to make some of their dishes interesting, either by adding something new and playful or doing the classics super well.

Keep up with all the #HudsonRW adventures and everything in between on facebook, instagram, twitter, yelp and pintrest! Let me know what places you are going to try too!

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1.22.14

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it's all in the NEIGHBORHOOD: Kipsey's

Photo Credit: Christina Clusiau

There is no way around it, Kipsey’s is what owner, Arnon Magal, describes it as: “a neighborhood restaurant done right.”

Kipsey’s encapsulates an old school meaning of the diner, not the current connotation of mile long menus, greasy spoons, and rapid-fire service. It’s a neighborhood spot, dishing out homemade “simple, generous American comfort food.” The depth is in the sincere flavors, succinct variety and quality ingredients. Everything is made from scratch, in house, everyday— from the mayo on the burgers, to the hot sauce and the bacon. There is no mistaking the meticulous care and passion, as Magal says, the food is “simple but we take ourselves seriously.” 

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The corner restaurant located in Kip’s Bay, which Magal believes to be “the last real neighborhood in the City,” is not exactly trendy. It offers “straightforward, honest food,” with recipes that are “transparent” and “nothing highly sophisticated,” according to Magal. “We are not fighting to be unique, “ he continues. “But striving and succeeding at being accessible.” The prices are affordable, making Kipsey’s a place you can frequent.

 

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Kipsey’s presents an eclectic gathering of starters, with flavors that characterize New York City— smooth and subtle humus, smoky grilled wings. Though, the chipotle corn bread was lacking some heat, the parsley butter met the sweetness of the bread. The cured salmon, house-cured for a quick 24 hours, was absolutely amazing, with a sweet wave of salt and dill heightened by cool crème fraiche. But, the thick bacon was a must.

 

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Even the entrees speak to the American South and beyond. Favorites like meatloaf and rotisserie chicken are side by side with grilled salmon and the Kipsey’s burger. The meats like the slow smoked brisket and the braised short rib are definitely highlights on the menu. Both meats were cooked expertly, tender to the point where they melted in the mouth. Texture of the meats really took the forefront, whereas the flavors were subtle. The same was true of the schnitzel, which was livelier with a squeeze of the lemon. But each was reminiscent of home.

 

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There is nothing complicated about the sides either, just simple comfort food. With sides like cauliflower, mac and cheese, coleslaw and more, there is something for everyone. The creamy mashed potatoes had a welcomed ratio of cream and butter, while the spinach was studded with tons of garlic. The smoked baked beans and the hamhock greens, however, were missing a little life. The hand cut fries, Magal reveals, go through an involved process to reach his satisfaction, “crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.”

 

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Desserts too were a mish mash of origins and styles. The apple crumble had a deconstructed approach, too disjointed to be a classic. Timeless pecan pie was transformed a little to a tiny individual pie, which was lost in almost savory fresh whipped cream. These modifications felt dishonest to the Kipsey’s approach.

 

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There is nothing innovative about technique, flavor profile or even style but that is not what the restaurant is about. Kipsey’s prides itself on “generosity, comfort and neighborhood” and being “super casual and super friendly.” The staff make guests feel welcomed and special every single visit.  Magal and his wife both make the rounds, calling each regular by name. The family friendly warm atmosphere creates a sense of community, even though Magal says, “people come to Kipsey’s to eat!”

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Kipsey's  

438 Second Avenue

New York, NY 10010

Ph. 646.590.3410

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12.20.13

 

local LOVE diner : Liberty Elm

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Guy Fieri, the host of Diners Drive-Ins and Drives, went, so of course I had to.

After being lost in an area of Providence I was hardly aware of, even after living there for four years of college, we finally found it, the Liberty Elm Diner. Apparently it is legendary for its breakfast fare and uniqueness. We were expecting a wait, cause of its size and fame. But I think we missed the Saturday morning breakfast rush, because we were seated instantly, starving and excited.

Basically, the diner is like a trailer with a room in back, on a lot. Small, quirky, friendly and fun. The décor is very striking, as it is a mixture of past and present as well as out of the ordinary and extraordinary. It is a creative mish mosh and pish posh. There are found objects and loud colors, painted tables and chairs, and art of children hanging on the wall. The trailer part at the front is fitted with just a few booths and a lunch counter with stools and everything. The whole place smelled of breakfast and bacon, even though the menu has quite a few vegetarian dishes. 

We were directed to a tiny booth and looked at the paper menus while waiting. It seemed like so many options jammed onto a small piece of paper. The one side of the piece of paper had lunch and breakfast items, sides, juices and extras. It looked like a mouthful. I was stuck on breakfast. But lunch items also had a lot to offer.

I ordered a glass of fresh orange juice which was particularly amazing. It was fresh squeezed, hearty and almost chewable. This made me really excited for what was going to come next. The purity, taste and fragrance, secured the freshness of the ingredients.

We started out with Johnny Cakes, which we ordered before our whole party arrived, because the menu gives fair warning that 12 minutes must be allowed for an order. I was excited because I had no clue what Johnny Cakes were, and also Mr. Fieri tried them on his adventure to the Liberty Elm. To my surprise 12 minutes later when our Johnny Cakes came hot to the table, they were not sweet at all, but grainy, shaped and fried up grit cakes. They were crunchy and browned on the outside but kind of like wet cement, lumpy and chewy. Kind of sandy, and woody. Kind of like when you let your cream of wheat get cold and lumpy in the bowl—its that feeling. They were not sweet, but not really savory. The maple syrup and the butter really helped to make these unique cakes more edible. I can say that I have experienced Johnny Cakes, but I am not sure I really need to experience them again.

I ordered the Monte Cristo Sandwich and added a fried egg on that bad boy. Basically, this was a heavy-duty breakfast sandwich, made on french toast with swiss cheese and ham, accompanied by syrup. I can not say I was fully impressed with the sandwich, but the idea was so tempting. How could you go wrong with basically a ham grilled cheese sandwich on french toast with an extra dose of fried egg protein? Unfortunately, I found out. The french toast was kind of dry. I am not a fan of really eggy french toast, but these thick slices could have soaked a bit more in the egg mixture, allowing the bread to soften into something sweet and almost custardy. The large french toast outside also was coated with too much cinnamon. The cinnamon without any sugar or anything produced a powdery texture, and added no sweetness to what I thought was going to be a sweet element. There was plenty of swiss cheese to add moisture, which was lacking in the dry and powdery french toast. It was extra melty and soft, and held the sandwich together the best it could. The sharpness of the swiss would have contrasted and created something more delicious had the french toast been sweeter. However the combination of the syrup and the swiss cheese was delicious and different. When I first ordered the Monte Cristo, I almost wished the ham was bacon. The ham added saltiness and more savory elements, and the fried egg was hard cooked and I almost wished it was runnier for moisture. The ham was chewy and stuck to the cheese, but almost too close to the texture of the cheese. And by the time I finished the Monte Cristo, and was looking back on it, I wished the ham was bacon again. I think that the crunch of well cooked bacon would be welcomed, along with the higher salt content.

We also ordered a Liberty Burger, but added cheese and bacon (because bacon makes everything better, even our waitress agreed). The ciabiatta roll definitely overwhelmed the burger, as did the lettuce and tomato, but each ingredient was really fresh and present. The actual meat of the burger was delicious. The quality and the locality of the meat sourced was tasteable. It was so fresh and so delicious, with many flavors that are not always apparent when getting the run of the mill burger. Our waitress explained Liberty’s use of really fresh and local meat, and told us that the farm was really close (though most everything in Rhode Island is close). Despite the deliciousness of all the elements, we longed for a larger burger.

The staff was so super friendly and open, with the customers as well as their colleagues. It felt like a place of sharing, where everyone worked hard together, and were very comfortable. The waitresses were expressive and interacted a lot with their customers, getting to know them and their back stories, which made the Liberty Elm feel like home. We even got advice on what to do in the city that day. The food was kind of classic but not quite the experience I was longing for. Liberty Elm is a great neighborhood spot, local and friendly, and its service and ingredients stand out from the crowd. Simple ideas, and simple dishes, but all featuring fresh ingredients and friendliness. 

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8.25.12

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