 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
Indulgence can
be overrated, and in fact, moderately pretentious, demolishing modesty and
humility. Luxury can be over-drawn, where extravagant elements intertwine
disharmoniously.
This, however, is not Verjus.
The Parisian restaurant is unassuming with light rushing in like a sunroom off of
a kitchen. Technique, ingredients and assembly speak to indulgence minus the
bad connotations. The warmth of the orange-pink evening light is reflected in the
atmosphere— the staff, the pacing, even the familiar foods refined to elegance.
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
Each amuse
bouche was constructed to be savored and ephemeral, catering to both texture
and flavor. The crispy chicken skin swathed with creamy meaty chicken liver or
the crunchy sourdough crostini topped with fera and popping orbs of pickled
mustard are prime examples. The four bites melted in the mouth, leaving the
residue of freshness and a quiet innovation.
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
Some of the
courses were confusing in a mysterious and magical way, in that they almost
combined the unimaginable. The way different varieties and stages of tomatoes
played together with the green purslane and the house-made toasted fresh milk
cheese, dusted with a powder of dehydrated tomato, evoked the feelings of
salad, unconnected but willing to converge. Two silvery sardines topped with
tiny cubes of summery zucchini and new potato effortlessly brought together the
briny with the mild, embellished with herbal dill and scientific dehydrated egg
yolk.
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
Others looked
familiar but guaranteed an inexplicable flourish of decadence. Plump yellow
cappelletti nestled with nutty chanterelles evoked memories, but middles made
of studded ricotta and cervelle created new ones. A polite pile of sirloin tartare exuded fineness, but the
crisp nature and bite of the cucumbers and beans toned down the decadence while
elevating the appeal to the tongue.
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
Dessert, too,
only looked disjointed and unprepared: common oat moments and fresh peaches and
pretty wild blueberries, spun into dreams with a sweet and creamy white
chocolate mousse.
The insightful courses
compounded expectations and anticipation with surprise and whimsy, manifestations
of profound flavor profiles, thoughtful layered texture and attentive aesthetics.
Verjus presented a deep knowledge of the complexities and simplicities of food
and experience, resulting in more than just a meal.
RER
7.27.15
 |
| RER 7.27.15 |
