gone FISHIN': Bait & Hook Re-Launch

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Bait & Hook just celebrated the bar/restaurant’s re-launch—new menu, but same seafood territory. The sea themed bar makes the seafood the star while offering a wide array of beers, wines and specialty cocktails. Under Consulting Chef Dave Martin, Bait & Hook has revamped its menu, taking visitors on a vacation while sitting in the East Village eatery. A trip to Maine to devour the freshest of lobster, or down the shore to enjoy seafood at its peak, oceans as playgrounds. The menu is thick with seafood favorites, infused with genuine passion, flavor and veritable warm weather.

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Vibrant fish tacos, topped with lively cilantro and white onion all nestled in blue corn tortillas, bring the surf while no-nonsense juicy chicken and wagyu sliders bring the turf.

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-->Delicious lobster rolls in butter and aioli varieties add comfortable decadence to the succulent lobster. The rolls are like a trip to the beach where everything tastes better in the briny salt air.

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Oysters and cocktail shrimp left in their purest state, recall summer, sunshine and balmy temperatures, fresh and free. Their impressiveness lies in their naked quality and condition.

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While the hot crab and artichoke dip emanates warmth and coziness even with crunch of the toasted french bread, reminiscent of bond fire memories on a cool summer evening.

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The lobster mac and cheese too brings warmth to mind with its mélange of familiar and luxury. Large lobster chunks come together seamlessly with the mix of cheeses and noodles, the salt of the cheese complements the sweet sweet lobster meat.

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-->Coconut shrimp and Kung Pow calamari give a different twist to the seafood fare, combining flavors and influences to create a layered experience. Plump shrimp are breaded and spiked with the dulcet notes of shredded coconut, and octopus rings are coated in firey hot and sweet sauce with the crunch and earthy feel of peanuts—bringing together land and sea.

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Bait & Hook is not just a bar with TVs and decorated walls, it is a place to enjoy the fruits of the sea while taking a metaphorical day trip outside of the City. With an updated menu and cool sips, Bait & Hook will be a great hang out to escape the oppressive New York City heat.

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Bait & Hook

231 2nd Ave.
New York, NY 10003

ph. 212.260.8015

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6.6.14

HudsonRW: Marty O'Brien's

RER 1.20.14

Next stop, Marty O’Brien’s. Another first, but it definitely will not be my last. Stopping in for Hudson Restaurant Week, was a great idea— a great meal for a great price. The bar eatery offers a hefty menu for the $25 prix-fixe, with appetizers like General Tso’s chicken and crab strudel, and mains like fettuccine and shrimp and braised short ribs among others. There are a ton of options and most definitely something for everyone.

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Even though, walking into the corner spot, you are thrown into a space complete with a long bar, a bunch TV screens and high tables lining the wall, Marty O’Brien’s serves up extremely high-quality food. It looks like a bar at first glance, but further in there is casual dining space and a hearty restaurant menu, with full meals that do not qualify as just bar food. 

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The French onion soup was classic, small and served with French bread and a heavy dose of gruyere cheese. It was salty and warm, sweet with the caramelized onions, typical and delicious. Even the macaroni and cheese was a step beyond rough and ready mac and cheese. The mixture of mascarpone and gruyere cheeses along with the salty smoked bacon gave an adult flare to an easy favorite. Both appetizers had the comfort of bar food, but a quality that made them more special.

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Though petite, the hanger steak entrée was a blend of traditional flavors with an unexpected twist. Blue cheese and steak marry in many a salad, but at Marty O’Brien’s, the slices of meat rested in a pool of thick sweet onion and blue cheese sauce, uniting the flavors in a less straightforward way. Appealing roasted corn on the cob also offered an elevated presentation as well as a smoky sweet taste. The mashed potatoes, though pretty normal, were executed with ease, adding that pillow of comfort.

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A hefty portion of fish dominated the plate for the potato crusted salmon option. It was far heavier and far more satisfying than initially expected. The salmon was filled with lump crabmeat, which added another consistency and a layer of sweet meatiness. The potato crust offered merely texture, a crunch to the soft chew of the salmon and its filling. Yellow rice and sautéed spinach accompanied the fish, just filling the plate, adding color and sustenance. It was the topped salmon that was the star, a unique conglomeration of the familiar.

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Dessert was either a creamy cheesecake or zesty carrot cake. Neither was the consummate dessert, but each had elements of deliciousness. The crust of the cheesecake was like a cookie, soft, but spicy because of cinnamon, which cut the sweetness of the creamy filling. But the moist carrot cake was dense while its cream cheese frosting had a lightness to it that was addictive.

Do not let the long bar and gigantic TV screens fool you; there is something truly delicious in store at Marty O’Brien’s. It is both a home for Hoboken regulars, as well as a spot for a low key but high quality meal. Can’t wait to go again! Thanks #HudsonRW.

And stay tuned for more #HudsonRW on facebook, instagram, twitter, yelp and pintrest! Where will I go next? You just have to wait and see.

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1.20.14

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back to BASICS: ABC Kitchen

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Walking into ABC Kitchen was like stumbling into enchanted woods, dusted with white snow and pretty fairy lights. Or wandering into the refined interior of a farmhouse with white details, exposed bulbs and comfortable armchairs. They were washed over with rustic moments, modern elegance, and white. The space created a blurry white afterimage, fuzzy from satiety and fond moments.

They managed to sneak for an early dinner that Sunday, sans reservation but full of hope. Wishes were granted, white seats were taken at a white table, and farm fresh menus were studied. Dizzy with excitement and forgetting the time constraint, they ordered with big eyes.

 

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The housemade ricotta and fig market table starter was a dream, served with slightly charred grilled bread to bring mouths back to reality. The dense ricotta and syrupy fig compote felt like dessert, smooth and creamy, where the dark bread and drizzle of olive oil reintroduced the savory. Even the white of the cheese and the distressed brown of the figs echoed the decor.

 

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However, the crab toast with lemon aioli spoke to a different kind of sweetness. The crab was so fresh that it hardly tasted like crab, but just sweet and juicy meat, doused in a delicate but present acidic charm. The lumps were garlicky and bright as well, absorbed by thick dark toast.

 

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Even the raw diver scallops brought alive the beauty of fresh and organic elements, mimicking some of the tastes in the crab toast; the seafood, the citrus, the pleasure. The tart lemon and spicy chilies danced in the appetizer, and each thin slice of scallop induced new feelings.

 

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The squash blossom pizza was salty and tangy, bready and light. The cheese countered the acidic grape tomatoes, and the whole-wheat crust added balance. But the pretty farm-to-table blossoms were decorative and delicate, last of their season.

 

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Many of the mains featured fish, but the suckling pig entrée tempted with in season tiny white turnips and a sweet and spicy bacon marmalade. The dish was too rich and heavy in comparison. Even though the dark green leaves were left on the root vegetables, the dish lacked that light fresh appeal. Turnips have a heaviness, a starchy creaminess that perpetuated the decadence of the fatty pork. The bacon marmalade’s heat proved useful to cut the fat, but the gummy chunks of bacon were too large and superfluous.

 

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Dessert continued the downhill with the almond cake with poached pears that brought the meal to a standstill. The cake was light and crunchy with little sweet crystals that recall marzipan, but it was dry and the poached pears felt less fresh. The tangy housemade yogurt broke up the odd monotony, but was too savory for the limp dessert. The cinnamon and the pears were inharmonious, an unexpected clash when most of the meal was well orchestrated.

 

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The freshness that ABC Kitchen is known for sang in every dish, resonating in their mouths and minds. The drinks also felt clean like the very last light of summer and the new beginnings of fall. But fall was creeping into the menu, highlighting the newly available ingredients. The squash blossoms were vanishing, and concord grapes replaced by cherries and strawberries. The menu morphs as Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten focuses on the organic here-and-now at ABC Kitchen, only using relevant produce and seasonal gifts.

NOTE: Since this meal, the menu has changed. Some items are the same, while others have different produce elements, like the ricotta market table item, the pizza and the almond cake dessert.

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10.10.13

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SLOW food: JoJo Restaurant

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JoJo in New York City, was quiet when I first arrived; the first floor was filling slowly, and smiles danced in the flickering of the muted candlelight and the bar tender was moving quickly to fill deep wine glasses. Upstairs, it was just as still, but there was room for a few more parties ready to indulge. The little stylish menu echoes the mix of modern and elegant décor, which is also reflected in the construction of the plates that eventually arrived at our table. After the appetizers the hum grew louder, and the upper dining room filled with warmth. It was a leisurely meal; slow food service, perhaps because of the increase in volume, allowed for girlie chats and full sips of red wine.

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The Peekytoe Crab appetizer was a maze of elements that came together nicely but was up to the diner to assemble. The heavy cumin of the crackers and the fresh crab created a complex system where each brought out the sweetness of the other. The pieces of bright and acidic fruits added another layer of sweetness laced with the tangy fruit notes.

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This appetizer was pretty straightforward but expertly executed. Each Calamari ring and tentacle was crisp, battered and crunchy though the octopus remained tender. The littered pickled chili, slices still with a seed or two, added heat and that earthy green pepper feeling. The sauce was made with yuzu, which created a play of sweet and spicy, like the contrasting textures embedded in the appetizer. 

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Even though this was called sushi, the Crispy Salmon Sushi was nothing like what is typically imagined when hearing the word sushi. There was no seaweed or rolls but it was a refined interpretation, transforming sushi into a different kind of elegant. Sushi grade raw salmon rested on a thin but potent layer of chipotle mayo and a cube of fried rice was the foundation. It was like a savory rice pudding, crisp to counter the texture of the slick salmon. The different temperatures played tug of war, until the spicy may ignited the mouth and united the warm rice and cool salmon. Something about the green sprig that rounded the flavors and produced a clean finish.

 

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The Duck entree presented duck in multiple ways.  Not only were there sizable rounds of duck breasts, but thigh meat was chopped coarsely and stuffed into  thin crunchy brick pastry. A wet pile of sweet and sour shallots rested in the middle of the plate, underneath the delicious duck dumpling. The tangy shallots brought out the meaty luxury of the duck medallions encircled by a little fat, making each bite perfect. Even though the pastry comprised of duck as well, it launched the diner into another category, with denser and gamier flavors and hearty notes. A dichotomy was set up celebrating the duality of duck, highlighting its decadence and richness.

 

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The Lobster dish was also more than it seemed, but simple at the same time. It felt like a refined, deconstructed clambake, including the sweet corn and fingerling potatoes. The spices even recreated that grilled warmth and a little heat that is reminiscent of the summer tradition. The same spices coated the lobster with salty savory elements and emphasized the seafood’s sweetness.

Butterscotch Pudding proved to be a very heavy and layered dessert, with the pudding at its base, topped by a thin canopy of smooth caramel, with a dollop of crème fraiche, and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. The mix of the intensely sweet butterscotch and caramel and the liberal dusting of the salt, transformed the pudding from a childhood favorite to an adult comfort.  Even the monotony of texture was soothing, as each spoonful was different and the salt crystals added unexpected crunch with a burst of refreshing flavor.

 

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A Peach and Black Berry Crumble topped with lemon verbena ice cream, hinted at the peak moments of summer, highlighting the sweet tangy stone fruit and the seedy tart berries. The fruits themselves were not that sweet, just soft in their purest form, but the crumble strudel crunchy embellishments brought that sweet dessert form. Even the ice cream was not terribly sweet, but the custard had floral notes that rounded out the summer season and herbal feelings that ushered the diner into fall.

JoJo felt like a beautiful dining room, hidden behind a secret door in an old home, from the decorated interior to menu. Everything felt comfortable, aged and familiar, but the contemporary twists, the lovely layers of textures and flavors as well as the elevating of classics made the meal and experience truly special. It was definitely worth the wait.

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9.17.13 

UNDER the sea: Blue Water Seafood

RER 9.7.13

Red Bank’s main street is lined with stylish shops and trendy eateries, among them Blue Water Seafood. The large front windows opened up the modern space complete with the exposed kitchen space and tanks with live sea creatures. And at the same time that atmosphere flooded onto the outdoor seating, right on the bustling sidewalk.

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The menu’s focus is seafood with a mix of traditional and straightforward seafood dishes, seasonal items with twists and even some that leave behind the water theme. The restaurant offers raw bar items like oysters and littleneck clams on the half shell as well as different colossal cocktails like shrimp and crabmeat cocktails. The crab cocktail was made up of lump crabmeat at its most pure form, and served with a lightly dressed salad, some rich red cocktail sauce and a few wedges of bright lemon. Each lump of crab exuded freshness and encapsulated delicious crab flavor uninterrupted by spices and seasoning.

 

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The array of salads range from classics like Greek and House salads, to the Pepper Seared Sashimi Tuna salad. The Mediterranean was a colorful salad, heavily laden with tangy Gorgonzola and layered with little oranges slices, sweet roasted beets and toasted pistachios on top of a bed of mixed greens, all dressed with a shallot garlic vinaigrette. Each element was lost to the superfluous cheese, but once some was removed, a sweet harmony arouse. It was fresh and alive with the crunch of pistachio pieces to counter the slippery textures both the beets and the citrus.

 

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The specialty Dry Sea Scallop dish served with linguine was one of the many classic dishes presented by the seafood restaurant. Others included hearty pieces of meats or chicken with a myriad of complementing seasonal sides to seafood pastas. This pasta was topped with a never-ending amount of scallops paired with tart grape tomatoes, earthy spinach and meaty mushrooms, coated in a rich truffled butter sauce. Each swirl of the pasta induced a wave of fresh flavors. The lovely scallops mimicked the textures of the spongy mushrooms and wilted spinach while the tomatoes added that bite. Even the truffle essence heightened the flavors, bringing refinement to a rustic feeling dish. It would have remained light had the butter sauce not become heavier, compounding salt and richness with every bite. Though the initial moments still left a sweet memory on the tongue.

 

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Blue Water also boasts a number of combinations with a mix of different fish and preparations. When broiled the different fish are prepared with a panko crust adding a light and crunchy layer to the succulent seafood. The three fat scallops were just pink and plump while the cod was buttery and flaky but the shrimp fell short, a little over done. The roasted potatoes were traditional and simple and the mixed vegetables were even simpler allowing the seafood to be the star.

 

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Even the desserts were traditional and comforting favorites from chocolate cake to tiramisu. The bread pudding was a healthy hunk of creamy custard, sweet and dense. A delicate drizzle of strawberry reduction offered momentary relief of the decadent pudding. Ice cream melted into the cube of custard adding another layer of luxury. Thin sliced of almonds throughout the condensed pudding would have played well to the sweetness and unified texture even a dash of citrus would lighten the dessert and connect it to the seafood theme. Even the simplicity of the desserts underlined the classic nature of many of the dishes and the modern aesthetic.

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9.7.13

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