an extension of HOME : Padoca Bakery Opening on the Upper East Side

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At the corner of 1^st and 68^th Street, across from a playground, rests Padoca, a gem. Clean light streams through the walls of windows, illuminating the playful, intimate space while smells of sweets and savories and strong coffee fill the air, inciting the desire for delicious bites.

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The name Padoca, a warm nickname for a bakery in Brazil, combines owner Marina Halpern’s Brazilian heritage with the ideals of her new bakery. Halpern strives for an authentic neighborhood bakery that is for the community where nostalgia and comfort meets artistry and innovation through inventive, creative and delectable foods and drinks full of heart and soul.

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Rachel Binder

It can be more than that local spot to get a great cup of coffee or a nutritious bite on the go; it can be a magical place to savor something special, a taste of the extraordinary. Pastry Chef Rachel Binder spins traditional and favorite treats with unexpected twists, resulting in whimsical renditions and unique treasures.

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Gorgeous cookies, like the balanced classic chocolate chip cookie and the imaginative “Rocky Road” chocolate cookie studded with toasty marshmallows, will haunt the dreams of any sweet-tooth. The pretty bolo de coco, coconut cakes, are edible masterpieces—tropical, refined, flavorful and just sweet enough for afternoon tea or a mid-morning snack. Swirled sweet breads, like the Romeo & Juliet rolled with cheese and guava paste, bring together sweet and a little salty, while the red velvet brownie confection topped with sweet and tangy cream cheese frosting wrapped up to-go is the consummate indulgence.

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The new bakery also serves up savory bites to rival its sweets.  One of its signature savories is its Pao de Queijo, fondly called the “PDQ.” This highly addictive gluten-free pastry is light as air, doughy and eggy, filled with the most marvelous bite of cheese, culminating in flavors redolent of childhood memories. Savory empadinhas, meaty mini pot pies, filled with chicken and mushroom or a variety of fillings, bring buttery moments with warm hearty centers.

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Padoca also presents breakfast items like an “Omega 3” carrot-apple-raisin-walnut-flaxseed breakfast bun, acai bowls, and teacakes and bread, while lunch includes more grab-and-go items like healthful salads, sandwiches and soups. The bakery serves coffee by NobleTree Coffee using the Modbar espresso system, and its tea program is by Palais de Thes. 

 

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Padoca is an extension of home. It is both welcoming and familiar, and exciting and innovative with a little bit of everything for everyone.

WHERE:

Padoca Bakery

359 East 68th Street 

New York, NY 10065

Ph. 212.249.8085

www.padocabakery.com

NYCRW: the WRITING room

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Though there is some heavy civil construction down the block, The Writing Room is utterly quiet. Warm, but hushed like a library. Studded leather chairs are tucked underneath freestanding tables, almost bare, adorned with just flatware and square white napkins. A multitude of framed photos cling to the dark grey dinning room wall, illuminated by Edison bulbs and hazy summer sunlight from the front windows. Cozy.

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Exposed brick and subway tile cover the bar area and the kitchen, while an expansive card catalog display hangs in a hallway leading further into the eatery. In back is what feels like a secret room, where esoteric meetings of great minds are held, comfortable amongst books.

The restaurant week prix fixe incorporates items from the regular lunch menu, just enough to tease. Tiny flaky brioche rolls and a mini mason jar of soft butter start the three course meal and rouse hunger.

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Their sweet corn soup is a play on summer ingredients and warm temperatures. It’s sweet and spicy with green swirls of herbed oil and moments of jalapeno. Shrimp and lime-colored fava beans float in the warm vibrant yellow pool, while skewered cornbread bites add a crunch.

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The garden salad is gorgeous with its gem-toned ingredients— jade colored lettuces, golden corn and ruby pickled beets. Every component springs to life with freshness and saturated hues.

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Two large onion rings crown the massive burger, complete with runny cheese, bright lettuce and radiant tomato. Thick sweet and salty bacon onion jam is smeared on the light buttery brioche bun that condenses enough so every element is perceptible. Pickles pack a kick perfect for the burger, cutting fat and surging spice. Even the thin crisps are familiar but elevated to elegance.

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Pink salmon rests on creamy smoked corn grits encircled by a ribbon of stylish olive oil. A course chopped cilantro topping studs the entrée with green, but is gratefully eclipsed by tart and sweet marinated tomatoes. They bring a sharp note highlighting the unexpected sweetness present in the grits and the purity of the fleshy salmon.

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Though the cracking of the browned sugar of the crème brûlée is satisfying, the custardy middle is wet and unset. Delicious peach compote supported by a sweet crumble is reminiscent of summer, but could not carry the custard.

A peaceful retreat including refreshing chilled rose, stunning food combinations with vivid colors and many laughs.

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8.1.14

SLOW food: JoJo Restaurant

RER 9.16.13

JoJo in New York City, was quiet when I first arrived; the first floor was filling slowly, and smiles danced in the flickering of the muted candlelight and the bar tender was moving quickly to fill deep wine glasses. Upstairs, it was just as still, but there was room for a few more parties ready to indulge. The little stylish menu echoes the mix of modern and elegant décor, which is also reflected in the construction of the plates that eventually arrived at our table. After the appetizers the hum grew louder, and the upper dining room filled with warmth. It was a leisurely meal; slow food service, perhaps because of the increase in volume, allowed for girlie chats and full sips of red wine.

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The Peekytoe Crab appetizer was a maze of elements that came together nicely but was up to the diner to assemble. The heavy cumin of the crackers and the fresh crab created a complex system where each brought out the sweetness of the other. The pieces of bright and acidic fruits added another layer of sweetness laced with the tangy fruit notes.

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This appetizer was pretty straightforward but expertly executed. Each Calamari ring and tentacle was crisp, battered and crunchy though the octopus remained tender. The littered pickled chili, slices still with a seed or two, added heat and that earthy green pepper feeling. The sauce was made with yuzu, which created a play of sweet and spicy, like the contrasting textures embedded in the appetizer. 

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Even though this was called sushi, the Crispy Salmon Sushi was nothing like what is typically imagined when hearing the word sushi. There was no seaweed or rolls but it was a refined interpretation, transforming sushi into a different kind of elegant. Sushi grade raw salmon rested on a thin but potent layer of chipotle mayo and a cube of fried rice was the foundation. It was like a savory rice pudding, crisp to counter the texture of the slick salmon. The different temperatures played tug of war, until the spicy may ignited the mouth and united the warm rice and cool salmon. Something about the green sprig that rounded the flavors and produced a clean finish.

 

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The Duck entree presented duck in multiple ways.  Not only were there sizable rounds of duck breasts, but thigh meat was chopped coarsely and stuffed into  thin crunchy brick pastry. A wet pile of sweet and sour shallots rested in the middle of the plate, underneath the delicious duck dumpling. The tangy shallots brought out the meaty luxury of the duck medallions encircled by a little fat, making each bite perfect. Even though the pastry comprised of duck as well, it launched the diner into another category, with denser and gamier flavors and hearty notes. A dichotomy was set up celebrating the duality of duck, highlighting its decadence and richness.

 

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The Lobster dish was also more than it seemed, but simple at the same time. It felt like a refined, deconstructed clambake, including the sweet corn and fingerling potatoes. The spices even recreated that grilled warmth and a little heat that is reminiscent of the summer tradition. The same spices coated the lobster with salty savory elements and emphasized the seafood’s sweetness.

Butterscotch Pudding proved to be a very heavy and layered dessert, with the pudding at its base, topped by a thin canopy of smooth caramel, with a dollop of crème fraiche, and sprinkled with coarse sea salt. The mix of the intensely sweet butterscotch and caramel and the liberal dusting of the salt, transformed the pudding from a childhood favorite to an adult comfort.  Even the monotony of texture was soothing, as each spoonful was different and the salt crystals added unexpected crunch with a burst of refreshing flavor.

 

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A Peach and Black Berry Crumble topped with lemon verbena ice cream, hinted at the peak moments of summer, highlighting the sweet tangy stone fruit and the seedy tart berries. The fruits themselves were not that sweet, just soft in their purest form, but the crumble strudel crunchy embellishments brought that sweet dessert form. Even the ice cream was not terribly sweet, but the custard had floral notes that rounded out the summer season and herbal feelings that ushered the diner into fall.

JoJo felt like a beautiful dining room, hidden behind a secret door in an old home, from the decorated interior to menu. Everything felt comfortable, aged and familiar, but the contemporary twists, the lovely layers of textures and flavors as well as the elevating of classics made the meal and experience truly special. It was definitely worth the wait.

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