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Though there is
some heavy civil construction down the block, The Writing Room is utterly quiet. Warm, but hushed like a library.
Studded leather chairs are tucked underneath freestanding tables, almost bare, adorned
with just flatware and square white napkins. A multitude of framed photos cling
to the dark grey dinning room wall, illuminated by Edison bulbs and hazy summer
sunlight from the front windows. Cozy.
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Exposed brick
and subway tile cover the bar area and the kitchen, while an expansive card
catalog display hangs in a hallway leading further into the eatery. In back is
what feels like a secret room, where esoteric meetings of great minds are held,
comfortable amongst books.
The restaurant week prix fixe incorporates items from the regular lunch menu, just enough to
tease. Tiny flaky brioche rolls and a mini mason jar of soft butter start the
three course meal and rouse hunger.
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Their sweet corn
soup is a play on summer ingredients and warm temperatures. It’s sweet and
spicy with green swirls of herbed oil and moments of jalapeno. Shrimp and
lime-colored fava beans float in the warm vibrant yellow pool, while skewered
cornbread bites add a crunch.
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The garden salad
is gorgeous with its gem-toned ingredients— jade colored lettuces, golden corn and
ruby pickled beets. Every component springs to life with freshness and
saturated hues.
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Two large onion
rings crown the massive burger, complete with runny cheese, bright lettuce and
radiant tomato. Thick sweet and salty bacon onion jam is smeared on the light
buttery brioche bun that condenses enough so every element is perceptible. Pickles
pack a kick perfect for the burger, cutting fat and surging spice. Even the
thin crisps are familiar but elevated to elegance.
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Pink salmon rests
on creamy smoked corn grits encircled by a ribbon of stylish olive oil. A
course chopped cilantro topping studs the entrée with green, but is gratefully
eclipsed by tart and sweet marinated tomatoes. They bring a sharp note highlighting
the unexpected sweetness present in the grits and the purity of the fleshy
salmon.
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Though the
cracking of the browned sugar of the crème brûlée is satisfying, the custardy
middle is wet and unset. Delicious peach compote supported by a sweet crumble
is reminiscent of summer, but could not carry the custard.
A peaceful
retreat including refreshing chilled rose, stunning food combinations with
vivid colors and many laughs.
RER
8.1.14
